Wanted SLC front nose hinges

RCR is making changes to the original design and are not available yet is what I was told as of two days ago .I am also looking for a set.
 
Anyone know how to contact this guy . Looks like he designed a real quality kit

 
Hi Eric, This design and parts were all purchased by Fran . The last time I contacted them they were making changes to the design.I have not heard if it is available yet?
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
Hector,

Fabricating hinges that are as aesthetically pleasing as the original hinges requires a fair amount of CNC. However, fabricating ones that are functionally equivalent is straightforward:

(1) The pivot point must be as low (i.e., close to the splitter) as possible and in alignment with, or forward of, the front-most part of the nose that contacts the splitter. This ensures that the nose doesn't bind on splitter when it pivots upwards.

(2) You must reinforce the nose where the hinge bolts to the nose. For my nose, fillets were created in the joints with microfiber filler mixed with epoxy. Once that cured 10 layers of 10-ounce cloth were added. Care was taken to ensure that the load on the small area where the hinges mount were as distributed as possible.

(3) Use shoulder bolts to ensure that the hinges don't pivot on threads.

(4) I suggest that you use ball bearings. I used this one from McMaster. Ball Bearing, Light Duty, Shielded, NO. 3002-2Z, for 1/4" Shaft Diameter | McMaster-Carr. I just checked and it requires a 11/16" hole, so you can easily find a hole saw or end mill to get it to fit.

(5) Add holes to the fixed piece on each side so that you can tighten/loosen the screws in the that attaches to the nose when the nose is sitting flat on the splitter. You don't need to be able to insert or remove the screws, just have a hole that's large enough for a hex key wrench. This makes tweaking things infinitely easier.

(6) The "foot" that connects the hinge to the splitter helps stabilize the hinge and stiffen the splitter. I highly recommend that you implement one. In addition, I recommend that you change the stock splitter support rods so that they attach to the top of the foot similar to the picture below. You can see the stock holes in the splitter where the blue tape is missing. While I have a custom nose sub frame, I think changing the stock setup would be simple to do.

1668972915470.png
 
Hector,

Fabricating hinges that are as aesthetically pleasing as the original hinges requires a fair amount of CNC. However, fabricating ones that are functionally equivalent is straightforward:

(1) The pivot point must be as low (i.e., close to the splitter) as possible and in alignment with, or forward of, the front-most part of the nose that contacts the splitter. This ensures that the nose doesn't bind on splitter when it pivots upwards.

(2) You must reinforce the nose where the hinge bolts to the nose. For my nose, fillets were created in the joints with microfiber filler mixed with epoxy. Once that cured 10 layers of 10-ounce cloth were added. Care was taken to ensure that the load on the small area where the hinges mount were as distributed as possible.

(3) Use shoulder bolts to ensure that the hinges don't pivot on threads.

(4) I suggest that you use ball bearings. I used this one from McMaster. Ball Bearing, Light Duty, Shielded, NO. 3002-2Z, for 1/4" Shaft Diameter | McMaster-Carr. I just checked and it requires a 11/16" hole, so you can easily find a hole saw or end mill to get it to fit.

(5) Add holes to the fixed piece on each side so that you can tighten/loosen the screws in the that attaches to the nose when the nose is sitting flat on the splitter. You don't need to be able to insert or remove the screws, just have a hole that's large enough for a hex key wrench. This makes tweaking things infinitely easier.

(6) The "foot" that connects the hinge to the splitter helps stabilize the hinge and stiffen the splitter. I highly recommend that you implement one. In addition, I recommend that you change the stock splitter support rods so that they attach to the top of the foot similar to the picture below. You can see the stock holes in the splitter where the blue tape is missing. While I have a custom nose sub frame, I think changing the stock setup would be simple to do.

View attachment 125838
If I were to pay you 1500 would you be willing to make me a set of nose hinges?
 
Does anyone know how or where to buy a front nose hinge? or detailed drawings? I am tired of asking Fran without a response.
Did you ever figure out the noise hinges? I’m shocked it’s impossible to get RCR to produce them why would you not want quick access to cooling and battery?? I had my battery go dead and I was SOL
 
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