SYNTHETIV OR DINO LUBES?
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Dangerous subject this one. Bad advice can be detrimental in the long term so follow up on all advice.
My 2c. You best go with the lubribant suggested by the manufacturer since components and tolerances are designed with specific proporties in mind.
The bottom line though, is that all reputable lubricants are good these days as long as they are used as directed.
My experience has been that synthetics tend to last longer between changes, but are not designed for the larger tolerances of the older cars - making for noisier engines and "incorrect" hydrolic actuation in the valvegear. High revving multivalve engines tend to benefit more from the synthetics.
Just my thoughts.
PS. During a conversation with one of the technical engineers at Mobil, he informed me that Mobil-1 is the only truly 100% synthetic. All others simply have synthetics added.... but then again, he had a vested interest
My 2c. You best go with the lubribant suggested by the manufacturer since components and tolerances are designed with specific proporties in mind.
The bottom line though, is that all reputable lubricants are good these days as long as they are used as directed.
My experience has been that synthetics tend to last longer between changes, but are not designed for the larger tolerances of the older cars - making for noisier engines and "incorrect" hydrolic actuation in the valvegear. High revving multivalve engines tend to benefit more from the synthetics.
Just my thoughts.
PS. During a conversation with one of the technical engineers at Mobil, he informed me that Mobil-1 is the only truly 100% synthetic. All others simply have synthetics added.... but then again, he had a vested interest
Rule of thumb in the V8 Mustang community was to run the engine in on duno oil the first 3,000-5,000 miles then switch to synthetic.
There still remains a significant difference in formulation of dino oils. The brands refined from Pennsylvania crude (Quaker State, Pennzoil) are higher in parrafins and have a tendancy to gum up an engine.
There still remains a significant difference in formulation of dino oils. The brands refined from Pennsylvania crude (Quaker State, Pennzoil) are higher in parrafins and have a tendancy to gum up an engine.
G
Guest
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Good statements all! I now use Mobil-1 exclusively in my engines. I used to use Castrol, but my stealth has cam followers (not lifters)They are supported on one end by a hydraulic piece that works very much like a lifter. Bottom line is that these tend to make a lot of noise if there is any issue with the oil. Mobil-1 works the best, hands down, in keeping my valve train running smooth and quiet. My only issue is that in the winter, I wonder if the oil viscosity goes up enough in my engine. It tends to be noisier, not because it isn't getting oil, but, I think, because the engine doesn't get hot enough to thicken it up. (I can see a notch or two more oil pressure when I am at interstate speeds with A/C on that reflects the multiviscosity nature of the oil.) I have considered blocking some of the radiator in winter.
In the transmission goes Red Line, period. Again from my days with the 3SI, the Getrag transmissions in the twin turbo, all wheel drive cars has some real issues, especially with synchros, and Red Line was "THE" fluid for those by unanimous decision. I figured that if it was the best for problem trannies, it should be great in others as well. Red Line makes several grades, so the proper one for your tranny should not be a problem respecting Chris' comments.
That good enough for jets theory got me into trouble with silicone brake fluid. I used that rationale and the stuff turned brown within a month and the spongy pedal was more than I could deal with. When in doubt, follow Chris' advice: go with the spec!
In the transmission goes Red Line, period. Again from my days with the 3SI, the Getrag transmissions in the twin turbo, all wheel drive cars has some real issues, especially with synchros, and Red Line was "THE" fluid for those by unanimous decision. I figured that if it was the best for problem trannies, it should be great in others as well. Red Line makes several grades, so the proper one for your tranny should not be a problem respecting Chris' comments.
That good enough for jets theory got me into trouble with silicone brake fluid. I used that rationale and the stuff turned brown within a month and the spongy pedal was more than I could deal with. When in doubt, follow Chris' advice: go with the spec!
Lynn,
I used Redline MT90 in my 300zx. It was recommended by fellow 300zx owners in the club I am a member of. Personally I can not tell much of a difference between my old brand x (i don't know what it was) and the new MT90. The trans has almost done 100kms (60k miles)
What difference did you notice? It seems to be better for transmissions that are a bit long in the tooth (pardon the pun).
Cheers,
Danny
'96 300zx TT
GT40...next year!!!
[ August 29, 2002: Message edited by: Danny Broomhall ]
I used Redline MT90 in my 300zx. It was recommended by fellow 300zx owners in the club I am a member of. Personally I can not tell much of a difference between my old brand x (i don't know what it was) and the new MT90. The trans has almost done 100kms (60k miles)
What difference did you notice? It seems to be better for transmissions that are a bit long in the tooth (pardon the pun).
Cheers,
Danny
'96 300zx TT
GT40...next year!!!
[ August 29, 2002: Message edited by: Danny Broomhall ]
G
Guest
Guest
Danny, the biggest change I noticed was when the transmission was cold. With the stock fluid that came in it, the shifting was very notchy when cold. It had that little bit of clunk going into the gears until it good and warmed up.
With the Redline, I have only exprienced this on VERY cold mornings in the dead of winter. Otherwise, it has a nice smooth engagement
all of the time. I think the real affect would be in long term gear/synchro wear and, I would suppose, bearing life.
The 3SI R/T (twin turbo, all wheel drive) guys used it to preserve thier synchros as long as possible. They also had a bit more problems with the transfer case than would have been expected.
Bye the way, before my Stealth, I had a 280ZX Turbo. It was the last year of the big straight six and the first year of the electronic dash (I think.) Loved the car except the cruise control would not engage over 70mph (maybe it was 80.)
With the Redline, I have only exprienced this on VERY cold mornings in the dead of winter. Otherwise, it has a nice smooth engagement
all of the time. I think the real affect would be in long term gear/synchro wear and, I would suppose, bearing life.
The 3SI R/T (twin turbo, all wheel drive) guys used it to preserve thier synchros as long as possible. They also had a bit more problems with the transfer case than would have been expected.
Bye the way, before my Stealth, I had a 280ZX Turbo. It was the last year of the big straight six and the first year of the electronic dash (I think.) Loved the car except the cruise control would not engage over 70mph (maybe it was 80.)
