RADIATOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

G

Guest

Guest

• Mar 5, 2002

• #1

with a project like this, i have to shop arround. this car is expensive so if i can save a few bucks here and there i'll be allright.

the cap i got it that high because i want to make sure that this cooling system will work with my 500 hp motor. i prefer to run cool

to be on the safe side... do you suggest something different? this is what i was recomended so this is what i got.

thanks

luis

 

J

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter

• Mar 5, 2002

• #2

Does is raise the cooling capacity to run a high-pressure system? I thought it did not. Most systems run at 8-16 lbs I think.
Speaking of cooling systems, has anyone had trouble burping the system of air pockets when filling it? There are pictures in the books of the old cars with the rear ends jacked way up to get the air bubbles back up to the surge tank to purge them from the system. Does this still have to be done?
Also, on this subject, will a standard or high=perf water pump circulate all that water back and forth from the front to the back of the car, even in traffic, or do you have to add another pump for safety? Just curious.

 

C

• Mar 5, 2002

• #3

Can you give s the contact info on C&R: tel #, Address, email. Thanks. Need a radiator soon.

 

C

• Mar 5, 2002

• #4

Hi all

Jim just raised the issue of trapped air in the cooling system, there are two important
thing to do.
One:- is to tap into the rear of the inlet manifold at the highest point (water jacket) and take a union and tubing from this tapping to the expansion. This helps to bleed the air from the rear of the engine.

Two:- if you radiator has the flow and return pipes entering at the bottom of the
radiator, then you need to bleed the top of the radiator. The radiator should have a
bleed screw in the top. You can also bleed this back to the expansion tank with a tube.

I run a single core aluminum radiator on my car and I only use a 12lb rad cap. My
engine is a 351 with alloy heads and it does not over heat. I use 1.3/4” ss tubes for the
flow and return and find that the high performance water pump works well even with
the Ford power pulley set up.

You can also include a swirl pot in your cooling system to help to expel additional air.

Regard

Chris

 

J

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter

• Mar 5, 2002

• #5

chris: I understand everything except what is a swirl pot? Is there another name for it over here or is it just something I haven't seen? Is there a picture of it anywhere on the forum?
I have thought about this cooling business a lot because I live in a hot humid area where there is a lot of slow traffic. Auto cooling systems get a workout here- it is routinely over ninety degrees for days on end every summer.

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Mar 6, 2002

• #6

i just got my radiator today. it is a beautiful all aluminum radiator and the price wasn't bad at all. it fits the front of the car perfectly. i got it from C & R . they charged me $480 for the radiator and $16 for the 28-32 lbs cap. the total with shipping was $518. i tried griffin and they wanted $850 plus shipping so i decided to shop arround. these guys at C & R do radiators for nascar so it will cool the 500 hp motor that i will have in my 40. other places told me that their radiator will not cool that kind of HP.

just sharing my happiness today with fellow GT40 fans

luis www.hotshotusa.net

 

H

Hershal Byrd

• Mar 6, 2002

• #7

That's great Luis, I really look forward to
seeing your car. I like guys that shop around. You find out a lot that way and save some bucks too.

Hersh

 

C

• Mar 6, 2002

• #8

Hi Louis

Why such a high poundage cap 28-32lbs?

Chris

 

C

• Mar 6, 2002

• #9

Hi Jim

Swirl pot is a cylindrical tank that fits vertically into the top hose from the engine, they swirl the incoming water into a vortex which removes air bubbles. At the top of the tank is a vent that is fed back to the expansion tank.
By removing the air bubbles created by localised boiling within the cooling system, the radiator will work more efficiently and create a more stable coolant temperature.

regards

Chris
PS. WWW.demon-tweeks.co.uk have them in there catalouge.

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Mar 6, 2002

• #10

i have ordered 2 radiators from them allready and i think by the time i order a third they would probably give me a better deel. if you guys want a few then you can benefit from a group discount. i will try to post the picture of the radiator as soon as i can. i just don't know how to post pictures.

chris... if i cant post it... cani email it to you and you post it?

thanks

luis

 

C

• Mar 6, 2002

• #11

Hi Luis

E-mail me and I will post it.
By the way is your radiator single core or more?


Chris

 

R

Roy Snook

• Mar 6, 2002

• #12

I thought the dog leg shape header tanks were designed to produce anti swirl, I fabricated a copy as per original and it seems to work fine, I ran a bleed from the rear of the water jacket in the inlet manifold back to the header tank to bleed air and also from the top of the radiator back to the header tank. I ran my engine in during a trip to Le mans last year and didn't experience any overheating problems at all. I think its important to make sure the water pipes from the radiator to the engine are of a sufficient diameter, i.e. 40mm+

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Mar 6, 2002

• #13

Pic of a swirl pot and header tank. Bleeding nipples everywhere. Kind regards, Bob.

[ March 06, 2002: Message edited by: Bob Sparks ]

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Mar 7, 2002

• #14

chris

thanks for posting these for me. i'll try to get better pictures next time. i'll follow your advice on the sensor for the electric fan.

so... what do you think? does it look good or what?

by the way.. i double cheched and its a 1 core 2 row radiator.

cheers

luis

ps chris... if i take a few pictures of my 40 would you post them for me? thanks.

 

D

Dave Wharran

• Mar 7, 2002

• #15

An ERA radiator, picture taken 2 years ago.
Beautiful heliarc work.

[ March 07, 2002: Message edited by: DaveWharran ]

 

C

• Mar 8, 2002

• #16

This is luis's radiator

 

C

• Mar 8, 2002

• #17

Hi Luis

I have an alloy radiator on my car but the flow and return pipes are on the bottom.
The rad has an internal baffle on the flow side to take the water to the top of the radiator.

We have found in the UK that the sensor for the electric fans is best placed in the top hose were it leaves the engine, and not at the radiator.
Chris

[ March 07, 2002: Message edited by: Chris Melia ]