SPF Front Hub Seal Prototype

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Workng on a seal for the SPF GT40 front inner hub. The issue is that the "tunnel" for the nut on the tie rod end intersects the void that we are trying to seal. I have a moulded plastic cap retained by an "O" ring. This still leaves a 1/4" or so by 3/4" open into the hub area. The cap would keep most water and grit out of the bearing area but it is not water tight. One could use some waterproof tape and seal off the small area that the cover does not seal. Pictures follow.

What do you guys think? Would this help or is it not worth it?

[Steve C]

Rick,

I'll call you tomorrow re ordering parts as previously advised.

re the Hub Seals: Would it be possible to seal the gap with RTV or silicon after the cap is installed? If so would probably be OK, no?

Steve P2125

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Originally Posted by steve c

Rick,

I'll call you tomorrow re ordering parts as previously advised.

re the Hub Seals: Would it be possible to seal the gap with RTV or silicon after the cap is installed? If so would probably be OK, no?

Steve P2125

That will work, I just assumed some people wouldn't want to do that. If there is interest in the hub seal I will continue. We will use them on our chassis and use a "low adhesion" RTV to seal the gap.

[Grady]

I already have that.....made by Caplug. Steve, the 'tunnel' is the opening I described earlier, and the only way to enclose this area is to make a mold and produce them. The cost to mold the part is small in comparison to making the mold. Guessing at what I've paid before ~ $1400-$2000. I haven't been able to get a firm quote because I still need a drawing to be quoted. I feel this 'fix' should fall back to Superformance because of the cost. Meanwhile keep them dry.

Grady
P2124

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Grady,

I talked to a couple of outfits and got quotes in the $1500 area......however as the left/right are different, double he cost! The piece cost is in the $3.00 range but the tooling UGH!!

With just 170 potential customers, the earnback does not work.

[Wally]

Rick If you have a Machine shop near by that has facility's to freeze the rubber and a CNC they could program these to be an exact fit. Two programs 1 for the right 1 for the left. Then there would be no gap to worry about, And once initial setup is done these should be reasonable to make.

[Grady]

Originally Posted by Wally Hunt

Rick If you have a Machine shop near by that has facility's to freeze the rubber and a CNC they could program these to be an exact fit. Two programs 1 for the right 1 for the left. Then there would be no gap to worry about, And once initial setup is done these should be reasonable to make.

Liquid Nitrogen to freeze the rubber, or try a block of plastic first.

[Grady]

Use liquid nitrogen to freeze the rubber, or try a cube of plastic.

[Steve C]

Rick,

How are you coming with the hub seal?

This is a must have for ALL SPF owners.

Steve P2125

[Jack Houpe]

Very nice!

[Steve C]

Jack,

What do you mean "nice"?

We don't have them yet.

Waiting on Rick for these and a few other goodies he is working on.

BTW I have purchased his rear window and the seal kits he is selling for ther A/C evaporator and panel openings...real nice products!

Now we need to get him working on the other items.

Is anyone working on brake duct kits for front and rear brakes? Once the front hub seal is available and there won't be a problem with dirt/dust getting into the wheel bearings I want to install brake ducts. Easy to do the ducts but, someone needs to come up with the backing plates for attachment to the front and rear uprights.

Steve P2125

[Mike Drew]

Originally Posted by steve c

Is anyone working on brake duct kits for front and rear brakes? Once the front hub seal is available and there won't be a problem with dirt/dust getting into the wheel bearings I want to install brake ducts. Easy to do the ducts but, someone needs to come up with the backing plates for attachment to the front and rear uprights.

I would think that either Gelscoe or Cushman would probably have bolt-on parts sitting on the shelf, ready to go?

[Jack Houpe]

Originally Posted by steve c

Jack,

What do you mean "nice"?

We don't have them yet.

Waiting on Rick for these and a few other goodies he is working on.

BTW I have purchased his rear window and the seal kits he is selling for ther A/C evaporator and panel openings...real nice products!

Now we need to get him working on the other items.

Is anyone working on brake duct kits for front and rear brakes? Once the front hub seal is available and there won't be a problem with dirt/dust getting into the wheel bearings I want to install brake ducts. Easy to do the ducts but, someone needs to come up with the backing plates for attachment to the front and rear uprights.

Steve P2125

Olthoff is making the duct kits, I seen them day before yesterday at his shop. Grady I spent the night in Asheville 2 nights ago, I wish I had time to find you.

[Dave Bilyk]

Guys, I just came across this thread, don't have an SPF or any need myself, but wondered if the following would be a possibility for the Hub Seals.

In the thread you are talking about tooling costs, presumably for injection moulding.
Well years ago, I made some one off bearing isolators and spring enhancers from a pourable, self curing rubber like material called Devcon. I suppose that RTV, silicone sealant is similar.
Anyway, the reason that the tooling is so expensive is it has to resist the injection pressure and temperatures. With a diy pourable material, you could make an open mould out of wood or anything suitable, and just pour the stuff in.

Does this help, or have I not understood your issue?

Dave

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Originally Posted by wolodymyr

Guys, I just came across this thread, don't have an SPF or any need myself, but wondered if the following would be a possibility for the Hub Seals.

In the thread you are talking about tooling costs, presumably for injection moulding.
Well years ago, I made some one off bearing isolators and spring enhancers from a pourable, self curing rubber like material called Devcon. I suppose that RTV, silicone sealant is similar.
Anyway, the reason that the tooling is so expensive is it has to resist the injection pressure and temperatures. With a diy pourable material, you could make an open mould out of wood or anything suitable, and just pour the stuff in.

Does this help, or have I not understood your issue?

Dave

A Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) type material is one possibility we are looking at if we can get the dimensions to hold close enough. Still requires nice master patterns and I am no pattern maker so still some costs there. But we are looking....

[Dave Bilyk]

Rick, in other words you're 'on the case' already.
Well best of luck with it, and hope you find a neat solution.

Dave

[Steve C]

Rick,

Keep us advised as to the progress on the "hub seals". Would imagine ALL SPF owners will want a set. Do you think you will have available B4 this Spring?

Also let us know what else you are working on.

Jack,

Thanks for the tip that Dennis has the "brake duct kits". I'll give him a call tomorrow.

Steve P2125

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Steve,

Goal is before the salt is off the roads here in the Northeast, i.e. by mid-March.

[Steve C]

Rick,

Thanks.

Remember I have dibs in on one of the first sets.

Tx, Steve

P2125

[Grady]

Originally Posted by P2164

Olthoff is making the duct kits, I seen them day before yesterday at his shop. Grady I spent the night in Asheville 2 nights ago, I wish I had time to find you.

12 minutes from downtown, 17 minutes from the airport. 828-777-1227c