SPF - Wheel bearing advise required

Hi All , yes i know this is an old subject but really after some advise how to proceed to with a problem i have with my 800 mile old SPF mk1 (2020).

So the symptoms are the usual , the front end has a rotational knock from the front hubs evident at very slow speed and turning. Strangely the knock seems more pronounced when i have a passenger in the car. I have adjusted all the wheel bearings both front and rear with frightening regularity so far, and in particular the front passenger side hub. Each time i am able to move the wheel in the 12 and 6 o clock position and feel and hear the tell tale knock. I make a small adjustment, the play goes and things are good again for about 2-3 hours of running, then the same again.

However recently after i heard the rotational knock i went to check the wheels and felt no play in either of them. However when i rotated the wheel clockwise and anticlockwise quickly i could hear a faint knock sound. On inspection of the bearings i could see grease has begun escaping from the bearing.

20210509_105910.jpg


As you can see from the picture the grease is gathered in the 9 o clock position. The other front bearing also has grease coming out of it.

Reading lots of back threads on this problem it seems the only real solution is to machine the hubs to fit a different bearing, an internal spacer and seal and to potentially plate the spindle to build up any worn surface finish to lock the inner bearing. Having spoken to a well known GT40 engineering company , they have said they have done exactly this to a couple of SPF cars but the work is labour intensive and costly , Up to £1,000 for a pair of hubs with new bearings.

So my questions are:

1, Does the leaking grease confirm the seal is destroyed and internal damage likely ?
2, Am i wasting my time requesting replacement bearings and seals from SPF on the basis they seem to regularly fail anyway ?
3, I know an excellent local machinist, if supplied with new bearings how do i calculate the correct spacer size ? is it possible too get this done myself with a local engineering shop or is it a bit more involved and best left to the specialist?

4, I've checked all suspension bolts, brake clearances and shock absorber clearances. Anything obvious i need to try before investing a lot of effort into this re-engineering ?

Many thanks
 
I would replace the bearing with a similar unit first.
If the problem occurs again, then its time to investigate, otherwise it might just have been bad luck.

That bearing has a runner and a race, both have numbers stamped on them which makes it very easy to replace them, and even for a Timken or SKF unit.
No need to get them from SPF.
 
I would replace the bearing with a similar unit first.
If the problem occurs again, then its time to investigate, otherwise it might just have been bad luck.

That bearing has a runner and a race, both have numbers stamped on them which makes it very easy to replace them, and even for a Timken or SKF unit.
No need to get them from SPF.

Hi JP. Yes i think i found the number of the bearing on an earlier thread.
I can replace the bearing, but i think the chances of a fault with the bearing are quite low, and much more likely to be a faulty with the design or the machining of the hub or shaft. I think whilst i go to the trouble of removing the old bearings i might look at trying to find a solution to it happening again.
 
First get the hub and bearings disassembled to see what you're dealing with. You're speculating at this point. If the bearings have too much play on the sprocket hub due to wear consider thermal spray as a repair. Thermal spray builds up new metal on the hub which can then be machined to a correct press fit (outer bearing). The hub is not heated to the point that chroming does so there is no risk of warpage. I was wary that this process would be sufficient, but the repair I had done is holding up fine after 2500 miles.
 
Once you have removed the bearings I would recommend measuring the bearing locations on the axle. The ones I have are 50.76mm and they should be a minimum of 50.80 so about 0.040mm too small, and the bearings are loose, so they need some form of repair before thy can be used.
axle.JPG
 
Once you have removed the bearings I would recommend measuring the bearing locations on the axle. The ones I have are 50.76mm and they should be a minimum of 50.80 so about 0.040mm too small, and the bearings are loose, so they need some form of repair before thy can be used. View attachment 115020
Thanks Brian, where did you get the 50.8 dimension, is there a drawing of the axle tolerances somewhere ?
 
Thanks Brian, where did you get the 50.8 dimension, is there a drawing of the axle tolerances somewhere ?
Hi Jason, I am not sure what the exact dimension should be, but the bearing is 50.8 and it needs to be a light push fit onto the axle so there is no play or fretting, so if you machine to exactly 50,8 you wont be far off.
 
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