Mark Reid RCR-40 Build
- Thread starter MReid
- Start date
Hey, very observant! I used VHT orange caliper paint. About 5 light coats. I then spilled brake fluid all over one of them, got it off quick, but no damage at all!
VHT SP733 - VHT Brake Caliper, Drum, and Rotor Paints - summitracing.com
Tom, I will post a video of first start, but I am more focused on getting ready for the painter this Thursday. Ron will have it for five weeks, but I will be able to wrap up some of the remaining details while it is in his shop. Video and pictures to come!
VHT SP733 - VHT Brake Caliper, Drum, and Rotor Paints - summitracing.com
Tom, I will post a video of first start, but I am more focused on getting ready for the painter this Thursday. Ron will have it for five weeks, but I will be able to wrap up some of the remaining details while it is in his shop. Video and pictures to come!
Well, it went off for body work and paint today!
Yeah, doors are over rated! Actually, I took them up separately. It will be done in five weeks and I can't wait. After dinner tonight, I looked at my son and we both said, "now what are we going to do?" It is strange having an empty garage, but it is in Ron's capable hands and will be back in no time.
I may make Carlisle, yet!
Yeah, doors are over rated! Actually, I took them up separately. It will be done in five weeks and I can't wait. After dinner tonight, I looked at my son and we both said, "now what are we going to do?" It is strange having an empty garage, but it is in Ron's capable hands and will be back in no time.
I may make Carlisle, yet!
Ron has all the panels aligned and is very impressed with the quality and fit of the panels right out of the mold. I think I reported before the difficulty of alignment and Fran added that with the doors being part of the roof, alignment can be very tricky. Well folks, check this out. This is basic fit with no triming or finishing, yet. That starts on Monday:
Mark,
Did you figure out the door alignment by yourself or follow someone else's method? How long did you spend doing the alignment? It looks great!
Hope you make it to Carlisle as well.
Sprint to the finish! I'm sure you can't wait.
Best,
Howard
Did you figure out the door alignment by yourself or follow someone else's method? How long did you spend doing the alignment? It looks great!
Hope you make it to Carlisle as well.
Sprint to the finish! I'm sure you can't wait.
Best,
Howard
#1 
IP: 69.37.156.198
Today, 08:57 PM
Metal-morphous
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wallingford, CT
Cobra Make & Engine: ERA 148 Nightwatch Blue
Posts: 194
This is the first RCR product that has passed threw our doors and let me say I am very impressed to say the least. Mark installed all the mechanics and we will be doing the body fit, prep, paint work and metal plating. The best advise I would offer to any one that is fitting there RCR body to the chassis is to start with the rocker panel first, I like to slot one hole in each panel and use the slot to align the panels, next I slot the spider the same way using the rear clip as a guide and leave a 3/16 gap. Install the front clip the same way. The doors take the longest to get right, I slotted the aluminum mounting point horizontally, this give you easy adjustment of the door up, down, forward and rearward and with the adjustment that Fran has designed into his hinge its make it possible to get 3/16 inch gaps in ALL THE BODY PANELS.
I have not done any edge fitting yet and already the body panels and gaps looks great. All I can say is "Fran if all your bodies fit this way I will work on your product any day!!
IP: 69.37.156.198
Metal-morphous
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003Location: Wallingford, CT
Cobra Make & Engine: ERA 148 Nightwatch Blue
Posts: 194
This is the first RCR product that has passed threw our doors and let me say I am very impressed to say the least. Mark installed all the mechanics and we will be doing the body fit, prep, paint work and metal plating. The best advise I would offer to any one that is fitting there RCR body to the chassis is to start with the rocker panel first, I like to slot one hole in each panel and use the slot to align the panels, next I slot the spider the same way using the rear clip as a guide and leave a 3/16 gap. Install the front clip the same way. The doors take the longest to get right, I slotted the aluminum mounting point horizontally, this give you easy adjustment of the door up, down, forward and rearward and with the adjustment that Fran has designed into his hinge its make it possible to get 3/16 inch gaps in ALL THE BODY PANELS.
I have not done any edge fitting yet and already the body panels and gaps looks great. All I can say is "Fran if all your bodies fit this way I will work on your product any day!!
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Ron - I started a new thread so we wouldn't all go nuts on Mark's build thread here...
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/rcr-foru.../24993-rcr-body-fitting-hints.html#post225070
Please feel free to jump in and offer up any other suggestions!!!!
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/rcr-foru.../24993-rcr-body-fitting-hints.html#post225070
Please feel free to jump in and offer up any other suggestions!!!!
Mark and Ron:
The body panel alignment looks great. I am working on the same project.
Question: Do you have the weather stripping in the door openings? Can't tell from the pics. I have an excellent alignment with the weather stripping out, but with it in some more adjustment will be needed. I anticipate lowering the door hinges between an eigth and 3/16" to get the top of the doors to align with the spider with the weather stripping in. I am curious if you had a similar experience.
Chuck
The body panel alignment looks great. I am working on the same project.
Question: Do you have the weather stripping in the door openings? Can't tell from the pics. I have an excellent alignment with the weather stripping out, but with it in some more adjustment will be needed. I anticipate lowering the door hinges between an eigth and 3/16" to get the top of the doors to align with the spider with the weather stripping in. I am curious if you had a similar experience.
Chuck
Chuck,
I had the same problem and ended up using the front door rubber off of a Ford Econoline.
Jeff Hamilton
I had the same problem and ended up using the front door rubber off of a Ford Econoline.
Jeff Hamilton
Dave Collins
Supporter
Chuck,
When mine was done a set of door seals were fitted to get the door alignment and height correct. These have now been taken off and binned. A new set will be put on after paint. If you look at pictures on build thread (http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22934-rcr-mk11-38-a-2.html#post222622) you will see that without the seals the door tops are now lower than the spider. Once new rubbers are fitted they will go right back to where they should be (or that is the idea).
Dave
When mine was done a set of door seals were fitted to get the door alignment and height correct. These have now been taken off and binned. A new set will be put on after paint. If you look at pictures on build thread (http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22934-rcr-mk11-38-a-2.html#post222622) you will see that without the seals the door tops are now lower than the spider. Once new rubbers are fitted they will go right back to where they should be (or that is the idea).
Dave
Looking good Mark
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Randy that sound like a great idea, I will check it out and and see if I can add anything.
Randy I set the top of the doors 1/8 inch lower than the spider, I used a built up gasket to simulate the height, when it comes time to to install the gasket I have may different types and height to get the doors to fit. The main thing you want to do is get the door to fit the spider perfect when the door is installed after its been painted I will adjust the door to be 1/8 inch heigher than the spider, then use the latch to pull the door down when its closed. I do this so that there is no chance the door can sag and hit the spider as its being shut. Many times in the past I have adjuste a fiberglass door only to have a customer come back with a chip when the door expanded in the heat or just settled into its new home. So by leaving the door alittle high, this is insurance that you will not a problem. If after a few months the doors does not move you can always lower it but the only time the door would be high is when it was opened and there is nothing to gauge the difference in height.
Ron Randall
Randy I set the top of the doors 1/8 inch lower than the spider, I used a built up gasket to simulate the height, when it comes time to to install the gasket I have may different types and height to get the doors to fit. The main thing you want to do is get the door to fit the spider perfect when the door is installed after its been painted I will adjust the door to be 1/8 inch heigher than the spider, then use the latch to pull the door down when its closed. I do this so that there is no chance the door can sag and hit the spider as its being shut. Many times in the past I have adjuste a fiberglass door only to have a customer come back with a chip when the door expanded in the heat or just settled into its new home. So by leaving the door alittle high, this is insurance that you will not a problem. If after a few months the doors does not move you can always lower it but the only time the door would be high is when it was opened and there is nothing to gauge the difference in height.
Ron Randall
Thanks Ron - I quoted your post in the Body Fitting Hints thread...
I'll re-compile the steps once we have some more to go on. I had forgotten about shimming the door up to simulate the gasket - even though I've done so on my own car..
Sorry about swiping space on your thread Mark! :embarassed:
Randy no problem and I'm sure Mark does not mind. I will take some picture of what I am talking about with the 1/8 inch gap being higher. Sometimes a picture is much better than workds
Ron
Ron
Man, I go away to Dublin for a week and everyone starts talking about adjusting my body!
I'm going up to Ron's see the car tomorrow and install the door latches and strikers. In the mean time, here is a picture from earlier in the week. All the gaps are set and the body is ready for high build primer and final blocking. That is looking down the hood from behind my coupe that is almost back on the road:
I'm going up to Ron's see the car tomorrow and install the door latches and strikers. In the mean time, here is a picture from earlier in the week. All the gaps are set and the body is ready for high build primer and final blocking. That is looking down the hood from behind my coupe that is almost back on the road:
Mark,
Have you adjusted your suspension ( roughly and there esp the caster) before fitting the body?
Judging from the side view you may take a closer look at your wheel centering. It looks like the whole body is too much oriented forward.
Take a look at the fit of your right hand rocker panel. Is it as far back as possible ( it than contacts the chassis)?
May be it is just the picture (i see the front wheel turned in a little), making it look to far back, but also the rear wheel is more oriented towards the rear of the car.
Just double check
TOM
Have you adjusted your suspension ( roughly and there esp the caster) before fitting the body?
Judging from the side view you may take a closer look at your wheel centering. It looks like the whole body is too much oriented forward.
Take a look at the fit of your right hand rocker panel. Is it as far back as possible ( it than contacts the chassis)?
May be it is just the picture (i see the front wheel turned in a little), making it look to far back, but also the rear wheel is more oriented towards the rear of the car.
Just double check
TOM
