That is the replacement control module for the Gen II Mini - Heat, Cool & Defrost. Each of those replacement modules are specific to the particular Gen II system configuration.
A Few Specific Questions For An SL-C Build
- Thread starter jmciver
- Start date
That is the replacement control module for the Gen II Mini - Heat, Cool & Defrost. Each of those replacement modules are specific to the particular Gen II system configuration.
Thanks, but you're really just telling me what it is called. I want to understand what it does.
Okay, so how does that fit together with prior comments about adding a servo motor to control the manual AC knob? Or the Dakota controller?
Yeah.
In short; the module communicates with the blower, servos, compressor activation, internal thermostat (if equiped) and any other item that may need to be activated or deactivated for operation of the HVAC.
Vintage Air uses servo to move the temperature blend, floor/dash and (if installed) defroster doors instead of a vacuum. If the evaporator unit, with out defroster vents, is the same case as the defroster equipped case, tI may be possible to add the defroster section/servo/door.
Vintage Air has very good customer service. If the defroster equipped unit fits the SL-C you may be able to upgrade directly through them. Or just get the info on possibly adding defrost to the current unit. One of my buddies was able to get them to exchange his polished control panel for the black anodized one that came with the GTM kit. They were very helpful and got back to me the same day when I needed specific fitting sizes for some custom lines I was having made.
The anchor shaped plenum directs air to the eyeball vents in the dash and also to defroster at the base of the windscreen..
It may be quite easy to have slider to block of either or any of the air passages in the penum itself..
It may be quite easy to have slider to block of either or any of the air passages in the penum itself..
Ken Roberts
Supporter
The control knob actually has a unused defrost position on it. I might look into building a servo controlled motor to control a pivoting door at the location I am pointing to in the picture.
The door would remain closed and allow air to exit the dash vents only. Move the knob to defrost and the door would open to allow air to window. You would then manually close the dash outlets to maximize the air to window only. I wonder if Vintage Air would sell us a servo motor?
The door would remain closed and allow air to exit the dash vents only. Move the knob to defrost and the door would open to allow air to window. You would then manually close the dash outlets to maximize the air to window only. I wonder if Vintage Air would sell us a servo motor?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Here is a simple idea I will try and impliment.
I'm not using the "servo heater control valve kit" as included with the AC unit. I will remove the heater contol valve from the servo motor (pointing to it in the picture) and use this motor to open/close a door in the plenum at the location I am pointing to in the previous post.
I'm not using the "servo heater control valve kit" as included with the AC unit. I will remove the heater contol valve from the servo motor (pointing to it in the picture) and use this motor to open/close a door in the plenum at the location I am pointing to in the previous post.
I like your thought process. You could probably take it one step further and add an additional servo motor/flapper combo to make it so that when flow is directed to the window, flow is secured to the dash vents. With ISIS, you should be able to have precision control of all of the servo motors, including the temperature control knob, just like the standard Gen IV unit from Vintage.
On a side note, doe the SL-C A/C kit also include floor vents for heat?
On a side note, doe the SL-C A/C kit also include floor vents for heat?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
No floor vents. See my build log for pictures of it.
Can someone tell me the rough curb weight of a street built SL-C? Specific features that would affect weight include:
1. Air Conditioning
2. Full fiberglass interior w/RCR seats (w/comparable covering material)
3. LS376/G50-20 engine/trans combo
4. Radio w/door speakers
5. Enough sound deadening material to make the inside sound like a coffin
6. Baseline parts (i.e. no race/track parts upgrades)
1. Air Conditioning
2. Full fiberglass interior w/RCR seats (w/comparable covering material)
3. LS376/G50-20 engine/trans combo
4. Radio w/door speakers
5. Enough sound deadening material to make the inside sound like a coffin
6. Baseline parts (i.e. no race/track parts upgrades)
James,
I didn't want to disrupt Ken's build thread and I thought this would be a good place for this post.
A few of the builds have/are using this Electric Bypass Heater Valve with the pot removed and rewired for full open/close and a direct connection to the VA HCV output:
Old Air Products - Home of the HURRICANE Heat, Cool, & Defrost A/C System - Heater Valve
Here are the vaccum actuated parts:
NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS
NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Great info Vidal. I am currently using the electronic version of the bypass valve (Old Air Products) in my engine compartment but I think I might sell it and go with the vacuum operated valve instead. I think the vacuum style bypass valve will be more robust in the engine compartment. That fact and also it was only $20 shipped. They are readily available almost anywhere as well if it fails in the future. I already have a EGR vacuum solenoid and will tap off the vacuum fitting on the back of the LS3 intake manifold.
Last edited:
Ken,
I'm running the vacuum actuated setup. I installed it prior to gaining knowledge of the electronic HCV. The vacuum setup is also about half the cost of the electronic setup.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Wow Vidal, I just looked at your build log....very impressive. My build electrically is very similar to yours. I'm using all the wiring from a Z06 C6 Corvette.
I am using the BCM and interior wiring so that I can use the C6 instument panel and HUD. The C6 Corvette uses push button keyless start. I hope I've covered all the bases as lots of the modules will not be used. Were you able to get rid of alot of your DTCs? I didn't think HPTuners was able to get rid of BCM codes.
I am using the BCM and interior wiring so that I can use the C6 instument panel and HUD. The C6 Corvette uses push button keyless start. I hope I've covered all the bases as lots of the modules will not be used. Were you able to get rid of alot of your DTCs? I didn't think HPTuners was able to get rid of BCM codes.
I had another transmission question for you guys.....
I saw in the SLC Wiki that some of the Porsche transaxles, including those in the G50 family, were too long for the SLC and required modification. The modification basically entailed chopping off the back end of the transaxle to make it fit.
This is one mod that I would prefer not to do. Unfortunately, the transaxle that I had anticipated using based on my research for a GTM build, a G50/20, would need to be chopped (at least from what I could tell from the Wiki).
So which Porsche 6-Speed transmissions would you recommend, that would not need to be chopped to fit the SL-C, and is a good value between cost and performance (I intend to use a LS376 engine)?
I saw in the SLC Wiki that some of the Porsche transaxles, including those in the G50 family, were too long for the SLC and required modification. The modification basically entailed chopping off the back end of the transaxle to make it fit.
This is one mod that I would prefer not to do. Unfortunately, the transaxle that I had anticipated using based on my research for a GTM build, a G50/20, would need to be chopped (at least from what I could tell from the Wiki).
So which Porsche 6-Speed transmissions would you recommend, that would not need to be chopped to fit the SL-C, and is a good value between cost and performance (I intend to use a LS376 engine)?
To my knowledge, all G50 6 speeds are long tails. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I was initially apprehensive about cutting the tail of an expensive G50 trans, but it's really quite easy, if you go the "Weldless" method. You cut off the tail and let a local machine shop bore the hole for the shift rod bearing/seal (~$150).
I attached the instructions doc on the SLC WiKi.
I was initially apprehensive about cutting the tail of an expensive G50 trans, but it's really quite easy, if you go the "Weldless" method. You cut off the tail and let a local machine shop bore the hole for the shift rod bearing/seal (~$150).
I attached the instructions doc on the SLC WiKi.
Ken,
Sorry for the slow reply, but I am just now seeing your post. Should I ever build another GTM I plan to use the C6 electrical system.
I was able to get rid of ALL of the DTCs. The C5/C6 electrical systems are very similar. Just let me know what DTCs you have. The priority should be for the codes that would put the engine in limp mode and/or cause a MIL.
