A Few Specific Questions For An SL-C Build

[Fran Hall RCR]

James,,

any of the side shift six speeds are fine in their as delivered condition...gt2/gt3/g96/50, g97/50 and the g96(996),....the part of the trans that gets removed on the g50/20 is the redundant trans mount....the rear shift rod is also too long and is also very easily removed...Rumnles has some great info on his build log...

Weight as reported by multiple builders is 2375-2475lbs depending upon the amount of sounds deadening stuff etc added..

 

[James]

Thanks for the confirmation Fran, I figured those options might be viable based on some pictures I saw of them on some vendor websites.

Since I have your ear a bit, do you offer any hardened rubber engine and trans mounts as an alternative to the solid ones? For my M3 street/track car (A 2005 M3), I elected to use the hardened rubber mounts (by BMW Motorsport) instead of solid mounts to support street NVH while still having good track performance. If you don't offer a solution, is there another manufacturer that will work? As a side note, I am not a fan of the poly type mounts, but that is a discussion for a different thread .

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

If there are any aftermarket ones available for the C5/C6 Corvette, they will work....as we use the stock cast aluminum mounts and then a steel chassis crossmember...then you will need to match the duromoeter for the adapter plate bushings...Pfadt makes some that other SLC guys have used

 

[Jack]

James, IMO you don't need any hardened mounts. The LS engines are pretty friendly
solid mounted, as far as vibration goes. Keep it simple.

 

[Alex]

James, IMO you don't need any hardened mounts. The LS engines are pretty friendly
solid mounted, as far as vibration goes. Keep it simple.

I agree, I don't have any issues with mine being solid mounted

 

[Graeme Stebbing]

Hi James, I heard about using ice hockey pucks on another forum, the guy was running a BMW v12 and the oem mounts failed faster than he could replace them, something to do with the short distance from the engine mount and the trans mount and the torque between them, I did a quick Google and found this it appears to be quite a common fix.
How To: Hockey Puck Front engine mount, could be worth a look into.

 

[Ricardo Montalvo]

I agree, I don't have any issues with mine being solid mounted

I had the same fears, and in real life it's a non issue. No vibrations or anything that would make me want to put in a non solid engine/trans mount.

 

[Cam]

Hi James, I heard about using ice hockey pucks on another forum, the guy was running a BMW v12 and the oem mounts failed faster than he could replace them, something to do with the short

Im sure the pucks can be made to work for isolating and insulating engine feedback, if you want a smooth ride. A build with solid motor mounts/ no bushings is the beauty of the SLC. You get instant throttle response to your brain, as the car will jerk/slam on a 1/4" of throttle lift/press. Its a freaking great combo with the hi HP and hi torque of US crate motors. You get 525 hp but 500 lb/ft torque. The torque will throw you back into the seat but on throtte lift off it'll torque you forward like a ragdoll. Sure the euro wossies destroked engines have 30% less torque which is safer for smooth cornereing. F that, the SLC is full, balls to the wall connection to the road. Warning. once you drive it youll have a hard time going back to the normal crap delivered out of Ford/Chevy/porsche/lambo/ferrari. The SLC is pushing the limits of what a street legal car can do, unless youve got $1MUSD for an enzo/mclaren. You've gottta make a concious on if you wanna impress chics or go fast.

 

[John Ross]

No personal experience here but Brian Thomson and I were talking about the possibility of minor suspension/frame impacts setting off the knock sensor in a completely solid mounted engine. Wouldn't something like a 1/8" thick piece of leather between the engine and the frame stop this without losing any of the benefits of a "solid mounted" drivetrain?

JR

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

If the engine is bolted correctly there is little chance of the frequency being correct to kick of the knock sensors...
not impossible but then neither is me getting a date with Heidi Klum....probably more chance of knock sensors being activiate now that I think of it...

 

[John Ross]

Hey, Fran, don't sell yourself short; in 1979 I got to dance with Princess Grace... :shocked:

JR

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

I am sure she said "thank you...."

 

[John Ross]

AAMOF she did! Most gracious person I have ever met, hands down. (Her son Albert was a friend at college, which is how all this happened.)

Back to cars now...

JR

 

[Alex]

No personal experience here but Brian Thomson and I were talking about the possibility of minor suspension/frame impacts setting off the knock sensor in a completely solid mounted engine. Wouldn't something like a 1/8" thick piece of leather between the engine and the frame stop this without losing any of the benefits of a "solid mounted" drivetrain?

JR

I'd be more worried about the exhaust setting it off - on the dyno we had to dummy down the knock sensors a little bit because at WOT they were getting set off