I've been hard at work and have a huge back log of photos to share.
I mounted the oil cooler for the trans and engine oil:
This view is the clearance from the engine bay. The deck openings are directly above the coolers, and I got the Setrabs with the fans on the back side to draw air through the coolers:
Then the fans exhaust the air right out the back:
I read where it is recommended to have convex mirrors on both sides to improve visibility. So I bought some replacement glass at autozone and cut out the glass. You could get one piece of glass large enough for both slc mirrors, but since it's convex glass, the center of view would not be correct. So I bought a separate piece for each side and cut each right from the middle. The glass is cheap (but not inexpensive!) and very thin. It's not possible to cut on a flat surface because the glass is curved. I found a spot on the body that has the same curvature as the glass. Just behind the headlight was perfect. The edges were rough so I sanded them by hand using 120 grit. It became clear I wasn't going to get the edges perfect because the sliver reflective backing flaked around the perimeter. To hide this, I painted a border around the edges with a paint marker. Later, I painted the inside of the mirror housing black so you can't see the edge:
I cut a flange into the "fender" so the fender vents would be flush mounted, yet still be removable. I painted the recessed area black because my fiberglass is white and even the smallest gaps really stood out:
I fabricated an inner door panel:
...and installed the interior handle:
This is how I attached the handle to the panel:
This is my CHMSL (center high mount stop light):
This is the bottom side of my shifter box. I put an extension on the shifter, and the brown material is a nylon material so it slides easier. It contacts a spring loaded bar that is mounted to the tunnel, under the shifter box. This is my reverse detent. It gives positive feedback when the shifter contacts the spring loaded bar. That is where the 1-2 gate is at. If you want reverse, you push harder and go into the reverse area. It is crude, so I added nylon to both contact surfaces to assist feel. This is a similar concept to what Allan showed on his GTR. His device fits on top of the shifter box. My center console sits on top of the shifter box and there's no room:
Battery hold down bar::
Fuel filters mounted to the back side of the engine compartment bulkhead:
Fuel system in place. "Wow, there's a lot more room in here than I expected!"
Fuel lines installed. "I guess there's not so much room in there...."
I filled the frame rails with expanding foam hoping to reduce NVH (noise vibration harshness):
These are all the different locations that I drilled and filled up with foam:
I also put some expanding foam in the doors:
I found a great deal on amazon on heavy duty felt. 9'x12' 3/8" thick for $53, free shipping of course:
I filled the space between the bulkhead and fuel tank with insulation:
I used 7 pin trailer tow connectors for the wiring into the front and rear clams. This is the bracket that I made, which is mounted to the new style rear hinge:
I made screens for the rear cutouts. I was intending on gluing them in place, but decided to secure them with studs so they're removable. This also shows the CHMSL from inside. The design was intended for the light to be removable, but once I bonded in the brackets that hold it, I realized I also trapped the light in place. It's not coming out unless I cut the brackets. Oh well:
The electrical connection to the front clam. This will change, though, because the hinge design that I'm going to use is like Mike Fling's where the splitter will be hinged with the body. The electrical connection will move to the side of the aluminum support, and hopefully I can make it a rigid connection that separates as the hood is opened:
Since I'm not using the turn signal stalks, I need to cover the holes in the steering column cover. I wasn't going to use any part of the stalk or the base they're mounted to, but decided to integrate the base minus the stalks. This way I could also use the electrical connection that powers the horn, without the need for a clock spring. I don't need this to power my horn, but to power my wireless transmitter. The transmitter is battery powered, but will be far more reliable hard wired. And safer. Also on the base of the stalks is the round trim bezel that the stalks stick out of. I removed the stalks and all the wiring (except one power wire to the steering wheel) and fabricated covers and glued them to the back side of the round bezels:
This shot shows the spring loaded terminal to the right side of the base. This is what contacts the back side of the ring on the column. As someone else recently posted, Jegs sells a $2.50 part that attaches through the back of the NRG quick release that makes getting power to the wheel a breeze:
Right side:
The mirror on the left hasn't been touched, the mirror on the right is the stock mirror after several passes through my band saw and belt sander:
Eight cups was too high, 6 should be about right. I removed too much material on the mirror, and repaired with panel bond. That's the dark spot on the housing:
1" PVC which has been boiled and squished, then sanded into a more aerodynamic profile so it doesn't look like a 1" piece of PVC that has been boiled and squished:
The mirror is just balancing in place, but ultimately there will be threaded rod securing the mirror to the door:
Inside of the mirror is painted black so hopefully the imperfect edges on the glass won't be noticeable: