Adjustable Suspension Geometry

[Gary Gibbs]

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This joint allows a total of 76 degrees motion (1/2" - 5/8" size).


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Do you have info on this joint as I have never seen a joint over +- 20 degrees or so. Thanks for the post!

 

[Trevor Booth]

Clay, Your "spacer" method of adjusting anti dive may need spacers of large proportions. Starting from the horizontal plane you may need to raise or lower the rodend 20-40 mm. That means a long bolt subject to bending loads. The amount of rise and or fall is greater with a wide base wishbone than with a narrow based wishbone. If you were able to locate the cg accurately then the amount of anti dive that you require could be built in from the start

 

Also, if having A-arm chassis mounting point with forceline intersctions within the wheelbase we will get influencial caster changes during wheeltravel.
I suggest balancing the springs and rollbars in a manner that equal pitch and roll angles by the same relation as the wheelbase vs track width. This should in moost cases take care of the dive problem.
Goran Malmberg

 

[ QUOTE ]
Clay, Your "spacer" method of adjusting anti dive may need spacers of large proportions. Starting from the horizontal plane you may need to raise or lower the rodend 20-40 mm. That means a long bolt subject to bending loads. The amount of rise and or fall is greater with a wide base wishbone than with a narrow based wishbone. If you were able to locate the cg accurately then the amount of anti dive that you require could be built in from the start

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i could have inner control arm mounting bracket removeable and have a couple sets of mounting holes vertically placed on top of each other, so the bracket can be moved up or down, then fine tune the movement with small spacers.

 

Hi Clay , had you thought about a inner suspention bolt with a eccentric cam at each end, this could run in a slot and will give at least 40mm travel,have alook under a toyota supra ma70 or Toyota soarer 4l they have this setup to adjust the suspention, the front arm could then attach to a bush over the bolt and so move up and down, with adjustment anywhere between.
Regards
GraemeS

 

[Trevor Booth]

Clay,
My earlier post, Quote "have the pickup point bracket adjustable in itself" It may not have been clear but that is what I meant, a series of holes for the bracket to bolt to frame. Small spacers with adjustable bracket is a good idea. If you want to get complicated and fancy how about-- A vertical stud threaded top and bottom with the rod end retained in the middle, The stud would mate with threaded bosses in the adjustable bracket, simply wind the stud up or down and lock with a jam nut ???