Darrin's MMR BOSS based GT40
- Thread starter darrinps
- Start date
Interesting - I wonder what needs to be changed? Maybe the outer diameter needs to be turned down a little?
Both length and diameter.
Darrin, I've really got to send you a six-pack or something. This is twice your threads have saved me money.
LOL! Thanks but then I'd have to send a case to various people on here!
Small update. Got the first parts of aluminum sheet in place. Ended up doing the under foot area in double thickness (just didn't think 1.5 would be quite enough). Set in place with stainless rivets (set about 90 of these by hand manually...just ordered a mechanical riveter after this experience!).
The center area between the lowered seats has been drilled and is ready to be sealed and riveted. Probably do it tomorrow.
The black on the aluminum is rubberized paint. Doesn't look very pretty but it sure helps reduce the noise (I tested it). Second coat goes on tomorrow.
Note to self...never rest a halogen light on rubberized paint...it melts it.
The center area between the lowered seats has been drilled and is ready to be sealed and riveted. Probably do it tomorrow.
The black on the aluminum is rubberized paint. Doesn't look very pretty but it sure helps reduce the noise (I tested it). Second coat goes on tomorrow.
Note to self...never rest a halogen light on rubberized paint...it melts it.
Darrin:
Looking good so far, pretty soon we'll be looking at the top side.
If you are having trouble with those stainless rivets Huck makes a hydraulic hand operated gun that will pull up to 1/4" rivets..a little slow but I've had had one for 20 years and it works great.
I was wondering what sound deadener you were using on the underside and what applies it.
I read with interest your posts on the footwell area, I did mine with a double skin as well and it seems to be fine.
Keep those photos coming...looking good, can't wait to see the motor and suspension hung.
Cheers
Phil
Looking good so far, pretty soon we'll be looking at the top side.
If you are having trouble with those stainless rivets Huck makes a hydraulic hand operated gun that will pull up to 1/4" rivets..a little slow but I've had had one for 20 years and it works great.
I was wondering what sound deadener you were using on the underside and what applies it.
I read with interest your posts on the footwell area, I did mine with a double skin as well and it seems to be fine.
Keep those photos coming...looking good, can't wait to see the motor and suspension hung.
Cheers
Phil
Haven't taken the plunge yet but think I will be going with these seats. They are narrow enough for the driver's side for sure (I measured) and should be able to be made to work with the passenger without much effort. They adjust forward/backward and adjust for tilt.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Attachments
Darrin,
I will offer a bit of advice on seats. I am not a fan of the GT40 seats. I wrode in at least 3 different makes before embarking on my build. What I noticed was that the seats that were being produced had no lateral support. Every time they made a turn I felt I needed to hang on to something in order to stay in the seat. Even with a regular lap belt. Sparco makes a good seat. I also would suggest finding a set to sit in and see if they are what you want. A lot of the speed shops carry various brands and have samples in their showrooms. I wanted good support and wound up getting the Racetech seats. The lateral sides come above the hip joint and there are supports for the lap belts. It can be seen here.
Saker : Racetech USA, Racing Seats
It was made for the early Sakers which utilized the laid back seat design. It fits the reclined firewall of the 40 perfectly. The dimensions are at the bottom of the page.
You can't have too wide a butt to get in them. Probably their only drawback. The support/mounting brackets can be shaped/cut to get around any protruding hardware at the rear of the cabin(shifter cables, seatbelt mountings etc. They sit right on the floor pan. If you have any cables or wiring runs that would go under the seat you will need spacers. My DRB has the washboard floor so it helps with that problem Hope this adds to your knowlege base.
Bill
I will offer a bit of advice on seats. I am not a fan of the GT40 seats. I wrode in at least 3 different makes before embarking on my build. What I noticed was that the seats that were being produced had no lateral support. Every time they made a turn I felt I needed to hang on to something in order to stay in the seat. Even with a regular lap belt. Sparco makes a good seat. I also would suggest finding a set to sit in and see if they are what you want. A lot of the speed shops carry various brands and have samples in their showrooms. I wanted good support and wound up getting the Racetech seats. The lateral sides come above the hip joint and there are supports for the lap belts. It can be seen here.
Saker : Racetech USA, Racing Seats
It was made for the early Sakers which utilized the laid back seat design. It fits the reclined firewall of the 40 perfectly. The dimensions are at the bottom of the page.
You can't have too wide a butt to get in them. Probably their only drawback. The support/mounting brackets can be shaped/cut to get around any protruding hardware at the rear of the cabin(shifter cables, seatbelt mountings etc. They sit right on the floor pan. If you have any cables or wiring runs that would go under the seat you will need spacers. My DRB has the washboard floor so it helps with that problem Hope this adds to your knowlege base.
Bill
They are Sparco R100 David. About the only ones that fit that are sturdy enough to me and are actually very reasonably priced!
I like those seats you have Bill! I just want something that will tilt. Primarily for the passenger side and resale (I am already thinking about my next build...LOL). Very good advice about trying them out first. I think I will do just that!
I like those seats you have Bill! I just want something that will tilt. Primarily for the passenger side and resale (I am already thinking about my next build...LOL). Very good advice about trying them out first. I think I will do just that!
Hi Darrin. I think the seats look good. Not sure if that style would limit you to 4-point harnesses rather than 6-point though. May or may not be an issue for you.
Yes, they are 3 or 4 point only. It is my understanding that a 6 point is not legal on roads in the US as they need to have a single release point...but I could be wrong.
Darrin,
I don't understand about the single release point?? I don't know of any 6 points that have more than 1. You hit the button , or latch link and they all release at once. Am I missing something??
The requirements for all the attachments are critical in that if mounted at the wrong angle or position, will not restrain you or worse will hurt you. Take a look at the Schroth documents:
http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
Bill
I don't understand about the single release point?? I don't know of any 6 points that have more than 1. You hit the button , or latch link and they all release at once. Am I missing something??
The requirements for all the attachments are critical in that if mounted at the wrong angle or position, will not restrain you or worse will hurt you. Take a look at the Schroth documents:
http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
Bill
Actually, I have read that Scroth does make street legal six point harnesses, but I have also read that most are not street legal and that is because of them not being certified as such and many were suggesting it was the single point release mechanism that was the reason behind it (I was assuming they meant swing arm instead of a push button at the release point).
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
The only 6-point harnesses I've seen do have a single release point. But be that as it may....
The federal government does not directy regulate seat belt equipment for cars already registered; they regulate manufacturing and importing. However, the state does regulate how cars on the road are equipped. For example, here is the relevant text from the California vehicle code:
"The safety belts shall conform to motor vehicle safety standards established by the United States Department of Transportation. This subdivision, however, does not require installation or maintenance of safety belts if it is not required by the laws of the United States applicable to the vehicle at the time of its initial sale."
My question is, when discussing a kit car, do the DOT safety standards even apply? I think not. As far as I know the DOT standards apply only to certified manufacturers products, not kit cars or rollers. If that were not true then we would all have to have airbags in our GT40s that were initially sold in (say) 2007, right? So, why do we think we are constrained to three-point belts with single release points?
However, ignoring the kit-car jurisdiction issue for the moment, here is the text in FMVSS 209 related to the release mechanism from Standard No. 209; Seat belt assemblies. - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration:
"(e) Release. A Type 1 or Type 2 seat belt assembly shall be provided with a buckle or buckles readily accessible to the occupant to permit his easy and rapid removal from the assembly. Buckle release mechanism shall be designed to minimize the possibility of accidental release. A buckle with release mechanism in the latched position shall have only one opening in which the tongue can be inserted on the end of the buckle designed to receive and latch the tongue."
Note the plural "buckles".
The Schroth document identifies "FE" products as being the ones that are for "legal street use". My reading of the literature indicates that what FE really refers to is a "pushbutton" release mechanism as opposed to "cam lock". The issue is with being able to print the word "PRESS" on the buckle for emergency personnel to use. (see http://www.schrothracing.com/search/id/15980 )
I went through all this when I put Simpson six-point belts in my NSX; it was the cam-lock release that presented the legal issue. However, I kept my three-point belts in the car since I never want to drive on the street fully belted with a racing harness anyway, so I wasn't worried about a policeman noticing my camlock buckles. There are a lot of reasons not to wear competition belts on the street anyway, but that's another subject. I still think the best solution is automatic three-point for street and manual six-point for the track. You can have both and they solve different problems.
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