Dean's SLC build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
I spoke to Fran today and we took all the suggestions and have decided to add few things to the cage but you'll have to wait for the pictures later this week. I spent the weekend putting the cage back in and fabbing up a few small parts that I needed. This was one of the those weekends that you look back on a think "Is that all I got done?". Some things take a while to make and some things take a while to engineer and some are a little of both.
Here's what I got done.
I know it doesn't look like much but there are a lot of little pieces. Here it is all together.
Here is the cage in the car with the steering components.
I just have a few bars to add and I'm going to call the cage done.
Here's what I got done.
I know it doesn't look like much but there are a lot of little pieces. Here it is all together.
Here is the cage in the car with the steering components.
I just have a few bars to add and I'm going to call the cage done.
Looks great Dean. I love the color too. Actually I don't think I've seen a color that doesn't look great on a SLC.
It's been a while since I've updated the thread. I haven't done that much due to a bout with the flu. Anyway, I added a roof plate to tie the bars together and I think that will bring a lot of strength to the frame. I am calling the cage done.
I took the back panel out today and started on the fuel tank. Getting it out of there without taking the side bars out was a challenge. It can be done but you must take out the driver's side vertical panel support to do it.
I took the tank out a flushed until I had all the aluminum shavings out and then I did it again. There is a lot of stuff in the tank. Make sure you flush it very well. I took it into the shop and blew it out with the air hose and found even more aluminum. I really think I have it clean now but you need to take your time and get as much as you can to avoid clogged filters and burnt pumps later.
I looked at the sending unit from Digidash and I think I need to go a different direction. It doesn't move through it's range of motion due to the through pipe running through the tank. I spoke to Allen about another unit by Centroid.
CENTROID PRODUCTS
I'll get that ordered tomorrow.
I took the back panel out today and started on the fuel tank. Getting it out of there without taking the side bars out was a challenge. It can be done but you must take out the driver's side vertical panel support to do it.
I took the tank out a flushed until I had all the aluminum shavings out and then I did it again. There is a lot of stuff in the tank. Make sure you flush it very well. I took it into the shop and blew it out with the air hose and found even more aluminum. I really think I have it clean now but you need to take your time and get as much as you can to avoid clogged filters and burnt pumps later.
I looked at the sending unit from Digidash and I think I need to go a different direction. It doesn't move through it's range of motion due to the through pipe running through the tank. I spoke to Allen about another unit by Centroid.
CENTROID PRODUCTS
I'll get that ordered tomorrow.
Dean,
The Centroid senders are great, especially the newer ones - I've used three and they worked a treat.
Aric
The Centroid senders - custom ones to match the shape of the tank, and the curve needed for the gauge- are what the SLC uses with the Koso gauge, and are included with the kit.
If you get the standard kit and use the Koso gauge, this problem is solved.
If you get the standard kit and use the Koso gauge, this problem is solved.
Dave Lindemann
Lifetime Supporter
Dean -
Great info on the Centroid sending units! I'll be ordering one for the SLC and for my Lotus project. No moving parts is a huge improvement.
Dave L
Great info on the Centroid sending units! I'll be ordering one for the SLC and for my Lotus project. No moving parts is a huge improvement.
Dave L
" I took the tank out a flushed until I had all the aluminum shavings out and then I did it again. There is a lot of stuff in the tank. Make sure you flush it very well. I took it into the shop and blew it out with the air hose and found even more aluminum. I really think I have it clean now but you need to take your time and get as much as you can to avoid clogged filters and burnt pumps later. "
Excellent idea Dean. even though its a pain now, it'd be a SUPER big pain when the everything is plumbed/wired and your full of go-juice!
Excellent idea Dean. even though its a pain now, it'd be a SUPER big pain when the everything is plumbed/wired and your full of go-juice!
I ordered the centroid unit today. Real nice people. I think if anyone wanted to do the same, just tell them you want what I ordered. They will hook you up. It was $70 with a low fuel warning light added to the unit. Nothing more embarrassing than being towed back to the pits, out of gas (unless of course you were giving the editor of a magazine a ride while leading a parade lap:shocked
Anyway, I test fit the new harnesses today from RJS. I sat in the car and connected the belts. I don't think I'm going to slot the seat for lap belts. I get a tight, direct pull by just going over the side. I will need to slot for the submarine but that will be it.
Here they are in the car.
I had the seats all mounted and looking good coming into the weekend. I was looking at the seat angle and was wondering if my helmet was going to clear. I sat in the car and rolled a broom handle down the cage and there was no way it was going to work. I spent most of the day reworking the seat mount. So for those that haven't done this yet, here's a tip. When the seat is in the car, lay a protractor or a level on your smart phone on the side of the seat next to your leg. That angle needs to be between 27 and 30 degrees to provide the head room you'll need for a helmet if your 6'2". Adjust accordingly for your hieght but that is my number.
Anyway, I test fit the new harnesses today from RJS. I sat in the car and connected the belts. I don't think I'm going to slot the seat for lap belts. I get a tight, direct pull by just going over the side. I will need to slot for the submarine but that will be it.
Here they are in the car.
I had the seats all mounted and looking good coming into the weekend. I was looking at the seat angle and was wondering if my helmet was going to clear. I sat in the car and rolled a broom handle down the cage and there was no way it was going to work. I spent most of the day reworking the seat mount. So for those that haven't done this yet, here's a tip. When the seat is in the car, lay a protractor or a level on your smart phone on the side of the seat next to your leg. That angle needs to be between 27 and 30 degrees to provide the head room you'll need for a helmet if your 6'2". Adjust accordingly for your hieght but that is my number.
The tank is about 12 inches shorter than the chassis and rest all the way to the passenger side. It leaves an area for some of your fuel system next to the tank.
The roof panel is 1/8. That is the same thickness as the bars.
The roof panel is 1/8. That is the same thickness as the bars.
Dean, was the cage a standard feature on the SL-C, an option, or an aftermarket/specialty item (I realize the panel was your addition)?
Just struggling to keep it clear in my mind which gear comes with the kit (even if it is an extra-cost RCR option) and which is necessary but sourced by the builder :uneasy: .
Cheers!
Doug
Dean
please check you lap belt routing again.
here is a link to the schroth racing belt installation guide.
http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
Even if you get a good pull , i doubt that the belt is running along your hip bones and probably is only touching them on the top. I would not compromise on that even if it means to repaint the seat.
Thanks
TOM
please check you lap belt routing again.
here is a link to the schroth racing belt installation guide.
http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
Even if you get a good pull , i doubt that the belt is running along your hip bones and probably is only touching them on the top. I would not compromise on that even if it means to repaint the seat.
Thanks
TOM
I hate the German's and their attention to detail!:furious:
Seriously, Tom that was a good link and I learned a lot. So much that I have taken the seats back out and started over. :sad:
I knew all a long that the seats needed side slots but I just didn't want to jack with it. The truth is Tom is right, you can't cut corners here. I tore the foam off and cut large slots in the side to make sure the seats didn't interfere with the belts.
Two inch hole saw and a cut off wheel to rough it in.
This is what it looks like in the car with the belts in place. I think this is what it should have looked like all along.
I just need to fasten the back of the seat to the tank cover panel and repaint.
Seriously, Tom that was a good link and I learned a lot. So much that I have taken the seats back out and started over. :sad:
I knew all a long that the seats needed side slots but I just didn't want to jack with it. The truth is Tom is right, you can't cut corners here. I tore the foam off and cut large slots in the side to make sure the seats didn't interfere with the belts.
Two inch hole saw and a cut off wheel to rough it in.
This is what it looks like in the car with the belts in place. I think this is what it should have looked like all along.
I just need to fasten the back of the seat to the tank cover panel and repaint.
