EFI Versus Carburettor...

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Ian, Thanks for the response and support! Your technical advice as well as the confidence you inspire is greatly appreciated.

BTW, what size lines would be recommended for supply/return? My objective is a ~400h.p. 302, with the EFI of some flavour. Thanks again.

Doug
Confidence - not really just passing on wat I learned about 5 years ago when I was going through the same thought processes you are! I know what I plumped on in the end and it works fine for my set up. - But I'm running a lot less HP - about 255 per the local dyno

Most fuel pump outlets are in the 3/8 range (8mm) for HP pumps that will support up to about 500hp.
The inlet size could be different (larger) to allow a good flow to the pump remember they are called pumps not sucks - they pump well but don't like to "suck" so fuel pump as close to the source (fuel tank or swirl) as possible.
(On my car I run 3/8 inch or 8 mm throughout)


Have a look in your truck and see what size hose / pipe they are running - I'd be amazed if it is much bigger than 8 - 10mm

Ian
 
OK, fine. EFI it is. But what kind of EFI? There are plenty out there, don't want to be too cheap about it, but on the other hand don' have a ton of money to spend on this sort of thing.

What are the suggestions for EFI systems?

Thanks
 
Doug,
There are several good ones out there. I have the TWM setup Borla-TWM Induction Official Website (423) 979-4045
and it is a good one. It is simple to setup and has the fuel lines on the inside of the throttle bodies away from the exhaust. There are several of us that are using them and I haven't heard anything negative. They are a little tricky getting them setup right, but once there, ore great. If you decide on them, drop me a line and I can help you get it right.

Bill
 
Hi GT builders,
This thread is full of very usefull info discussing the merits of EFI and carbs, without question EFI will be beneficial to economy(super unleaded £6.08p pergallon) and ultimate flexibility, but most of us are driving or building GT40 REPLICAS of various pedigrees, trying as best we can to have as close a car to those run in the heady days of the 1960s.
EFI was never part of the GT40 programme, Carbs whether 4 barrell or quad webbbers were the norm and were catered for in the original design.
Move forward to present day,there are lots of EFI choices available, but when making your choice, check with the supplier that in service, ie in a GT40 REPLICA that the system you are buying or are being sold will allow you to access the distributor cap etc for routine or breakdown service, some throttle bodies and there associated fuel rails fit right over the top of the distributor making removal of the cap almost impossible when the engine is installed in the car.
I currently have a gt40 in build in my workshop, the customer supplied a motor prepared ready to fit prepared by a reputable engine builder as a plug and play install, sadly this has not proved to be the case and the engine will not start, no spark no, no injection, ( the EFI pump powers up and cuts out as per correct operating mode) the vehicle eletrics have been thoroughly checked out all fine.
The fault finding sequence requires the distributor cap to be removed to observe the LED trigger lights flashing when the system triggers the signals to the ECM, the cap cannot be removed in car to do this without removing or distmantling the fuel rails, if the fuel rails are disturbed and then the electrics energised we will have petrol and potential electrical spark, just the combination for a garage disaster.
Think carefully when buying /choosing your induction options, would any self respecting LE MANS winning race team manager fit his cars with a fuel system that required the system to be part distmantled just to fit say a rotor arm during a pit stop to cure a misfire???? or what are you goind to do at the roadside with a simular problem?
The cost of Throttle bodied EFI is around £6000 , that will buy at present 1000 gallons of petrol which in most 302 motored GT40s will take you 10 to 15000 miles, in a car that if a breakdown occurs it can be sorted with period tools and technology not needing the services on a computer whizz kid or that the car be distmantled to such a degree.
I think I will stick with my 4 barrel, in fact I have never driven my 40 and thought "wish I had fuel injection" .
YOU DECIDE,
cheers
John.
 
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Scott
Thanks for your support on this , the EFI system that you may use in a future build looks fine and appears to allow normal in car service procedures to take place,
I previously restored a KVA (KVA rebuild by monkeyboy in the build logs)and fitted 44 IDA webbers to a stock overhauled 302, motor pulled like a train looked right and sounded right and it was on dual point ignition just the same as when I was an apprentice mechanic 41 years ago!!!
cheers,
John.:thumbsup:
 
Although not correct for a early 40, I'm fitting a Holley 4 barrel, it works, I can tune with out a computer and as others have said I can drive a lot of miles for the cost of either webbers or EFI, $400 for the carb, $3000 to $6000 for the others. Just a few thoughts, WHAT DOES IT COST for a replicar
 
Bill,
What does a replicar cost?
There is much discusson on this forum re build costs, be honest with your self and your partner and be realistic, my rule of thumb is if genuine GT40s are currently costing £ 1000000, ( one million pounds) then if a good replica comes in at £100,000 (one hundred thousand pounds) then you will have a car that gives you and other enthusiasts great pleasure for only 10% of the price of the real thing!

Scott,

I am sure you will make the right choice, bearing in mind your enthusiasm for the period patina that can be built in to our cars.
Be aware that the wiring harness supplied with most EFI kits is laid out for a front engined car with the feeds/supply lines coming in off a rear of motor firewall/bulkhead, this has to be rearranged to feed in from a forward firewall bulkhead on GT40S, not easy but is possible( having installed such a loom/harness in an RCR40 monocoque chassis) easier in a space frame chassis where access to chassis space is more easily achieved.

All builders,
When choosing your induction, EFI or carbs and you have invested in an expensive exhaust system, make sure that the system will deliver fuel at a safe distance from the very hot exhaust, so have your engine builder fit up such a system and be sure that it will all fit and operate safely in your GT40, make sure you happy with what you are buying, do not just accept what you are being sold.
cheers,
John:thumbsup:
 
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