Electric water pump
- Thread starter simonjrwinter
- Start date
Hi
don´t know what i missed, but why not using a temperatur controlled speed control of the electric waterpump ?
like this one:
ISA-Racing Online Shop - Digitale elektronische Kontrollbox fr EWP 5652-4
for this waterpump
TOM
don´t know what i missed, but why not using a temperatur controlled speed control of the electric waterpump ?
like this one:
ISA-Racing Online Shop - Digitale elektronische Kontrollbox fr EWP 5652-4
for this waterpump
TOM
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Last edited:
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
There seems to be some debate about whether this product actually exists in a practical sense. Has anyone purchased one in the last few months and/or had direct contact with the supplier?
Here are the measurements. The thermostat has two spring loaded valves on one shaft. A small one with a weak small spring that is partially compressed and opens a passage through the middle to let water flow though the bypass port. The larger one is at the radiator opening and is much stiffer. I suspect when it opens it closes off the opening to the bypass.
Bill
Bill
I haven't corresponded with Brian in the last 3-5 months, but he was very helpful about 6-9 months ago when we were tossing around ideas on converting the engine driven oil pump to VSD.
Just as an aside, I have the older 35a version of his single channel controller and it works very well.
Thanks Bill...
As to why I chose to use a bypass thermostat rather than a thermostatically controlled water pump control is that I preferred something less complex. The less complex the system, the risk of failure is reduced. I figured I was already walking on thin ice with an electric WP vs a mechanical one..
Either way - I'm happy with my decision so far.. But then again - the car is not yet on the road..
As to why I chose to use a bypass thermostat rather than a thermostatically controlled water pump control is that I preferred something less complex. The less complex the system, the risk of failure is reduced. I figured I was already walking on thin ice with an electric WP vs a mechanical one..
Either way - I'm happy with my decision so far.. But then again - the car is not yet on the road..
Here's mine. Davies Craig
EWP115 (12V) & DIGITAL CONTROLLER (Combo Pack) - PART No: 8030
Seems to control the engine temps and fan operation fine. Bleeds up easy aswell.
I also have this to pump the water up to the heater core, makes for easy bleeding and my heater puts out might hot air.
ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP 12V KIT - PART No: 9001
EWP115 (12V) & DIGITAL CONTROLLER (Combo Pack) - PART No: 8030
Seems to control the engine temps and fan operation fine. Bleeds up easy aswell.
I also have this to pump the water up to the heater core, makes for easy bleeding and my heater puts out might hot air.
ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP 12V KIT - PART No: 9001
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
I'm really glad to hear that because his products are by far the most sophisticated and well thought-out in that space.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Have you tried it for long periods under high load at high temperature? I ask because even Meziere, who's pump has about twice the capacity of the EWP115, expressed some reservations about its ability to keep up with my 500 hp. engine.
No I have not, I only just got my car on the road....which it is now coming back off again for painting.
200MPH ( Julian) has the EWP80 in his car which makes about 450hp at the wheels. It seems to control the temp ok.
I think it more comes down to how good your rad and cooling system is set up more than the pumps out right flow. The DC controller is easy to program and operates the thermo fans aswell. When you turn the car off you hear the Pump still going and the fans stay running for awhile aswell.
A lot of cooling issues are down to air pockets in 40's and that's why I fitted the booster pump. I have plumbed my heater pipes off the centre tunnel pipes and use the booster to push the coolant up to the the heater core. I know this a problem as when I first turn on the pump I can hear it purging then it goes quiet.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Don't get me wrong; I love the idea of a thermostatically controlled WP. I just don't want to go to all the trouble and then discover on my first summer track day that my engine is too big for my water pump. I *know* that is not a problem with my existing mechanical pump. So every time this subject comes up I ask, and so far the answer is always "well, I haven't used it that hard."
I am using a Meziere pump up front in my car, and I have been trying to be sure I have done things OK, so I think I will ask here:
(1) I have the pump up front, low pressure side of the radiator, and I have an in-line Nascar style thermostat that I put back by the engine thinking it would open faster. It has a -6 AN bypass line that is 6 feet long and comes through the center tunnel to dump in right behind the pump.
I am thinking about moving the thermostat to the front of the car. If I do that, I will have a -6AN bypass line that is about 1 foot instead, but the thermostat will be 6 feet from the engine (doesn't seem to bother anyone here).
Meziere had just said to run it without a thermostat.
(2) I am running a bleed line from the upper corner of the radiator back to the tank. I already have a similar bleed line from the top of the motor to the tank. Can I use a T-fitting at the tank, so that these will essentially connect as they go into the tank (easier packaging in a tight space) or do they have to go into separate inlets on the tank? I am using Meziere expansion and recovery tanks.
(3) Lastly, as I mentioned, Meziere tanks. Both are 28 oz. Is that going to be enough volume for this cooling system?
Thanks a bunch gentlemen.
(1) I have the pump up front, low pressure side of the radiator, and I have an in-line Nascar style thermostat that I put back by the engine thinking it would open faster. It has a -6 AN bypass line that is 6 feet long and comes through the center tunnel to dump in right behind the pump.
I am thinking about moving the thermostat to the front of the car. If I do that, I will have a -6AN bypass line that is about 1 foot instead, but the thermostat will be 6 feet from the engine (doesn't seem to bother anyone here).
Meziere had just said to run it without a thermostat.
(2) I am running a bleed line from the upper corner of the radiator back to the tank. I already have a similar bleed line from the top of the motor to the tank. Can I use a T-fitting at the tank, so that these will essentially connect as they go into the tank (easier packaging in a tight space) or do they have to go into separate inlets on the tank? I am using Meziere expansion and recovery tanks.
(3) Lastly, as I mentioned, Meziere tanks. Both are 28 oz. Is that going to be enough volume for this cooling system?
Thanks a bunch gentlemen.
Just a comment on your thermostat placement. If you're trying to control outlet temperature from the engine in the conventional way, I would place it as close to the sensing point (engine outlet) as possible. There's already so much "thermal inertia" or lag in engines that coolant temperature control is difficult enough as it is without introducing more.
The variable speed pump control goes a long way toward addressing this, but it's still a new concept, much like variable speed electric fans were 5-10 years ago.
The variable speed pump control goes a long way toward addressing this, but it's still a new concept, much like variable speed electric fans were 5-10 years ago.
Ditto, I'd be tempted to eliminate the 'stat and bypass line and go with full variable speed control of the pump. You've already made one "pioneering" choice by eliminating the mechanical pump and going electric; why not go all the way :thumbsup:
BTW, I think your choice of pump placement is great. Putting it at the radiator, or actually "in" the radiator helps ensure it has flooded suction, and centrifugal pumps always prefer to push fluid than have to pull it.
BTW, I think your choice of pump placement is great. Putting it at the radiator, or actually "in" the radiator helps ensure it has flooded suction, and centrifugal pumps always prefer to push fluid than have to pull it.
Can the digital controllers handle the current load requirements of the larger pumps like mine (55 GPM) ??
Also - I'm not sure that all pump motors are capable of running at lower voltages without burning out due to the higher current then required to make them operate..
I put my pump up front so I could make my bypass hose the same size as my other hoses (1.5" and -16)..
Also - I'm not sure that all pump motors are capable of running at lower voltages without burning out due to the higher current then required to make them operate..
I put my pump up front so I could make my bypass hose the same size as my other hoses (1.5" and -16)..
Randy,
If you are worried about the longevity of your pump with a controller, then don't use one. Run the pump at full power based on a thermostat and add the run on feature with the Waytek relay. The 75542 or 43 should do the trick.
Use the A input from the thermostat. You can use the output to run the pump and the fans. The timer is a tiny plastic button in the hole. You have to use a tiny screw driver. It could have been better designed with a knob.
Running your pump on the relay may cause some pulsing of the pump due to the difference in temps of the radiator and the block with a high output pump, but I would suspect it would only do it once or twice on start up. Have you ever noticed it???
Bill
If you are worried about the longevity of your pump with a controller, then don't use one. Run the pump at full power based on a thermostat and add the run on feature with the Waytek relay. The 75542 or 43 should do the trick.
Use the A input from the thermostat. You can use the output to run the pump and the fans. The timer is a tiny plastic button in the hole. You have to use a tiny screw driver. It could have been better designed with a knob.
Running your pump on the relay may cause some pulsing of the pump due to the difference in temps of the radiator and the block with a high output pump, but I would suspect it would only do it once or twice on start up. Have you ever noticed it???
Bill
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