Engines HP

My 302 based motor is 580 hp 7k rpm and 465 ftlbs 4.9k rpm on the dyno. So probably somewhere just south of 500hp at the rear wheels. One thing that is not an issue is traction. I run slicks, but more inportantly have tallish gearing in gears 1-3 because its a track setup and Tq is fairly high up the rev range. All of which is quite different to stock gearing and high tq low down the rev range on a 351/427

The key is learnign how to feed the power in on bends so as not to upset the balance more than traction being an issue, its not a throttle mash. The great part is this near unlimited reserve of go to feed in after the apex. On straights traction is simply not an issue, more of an issue is that straights with this hp become short and corners arrive real fast, the inclination then is to overbrake instead of carrying more speed to the apex.

The good part of a lot of power, the right gearing and a big power spread with lots of rev range is you dont have to shift a lot which costs time. The glenn is basicaly all 3rd and 4th gear.

If the motor was say a hydralic lifter with lower rev range and stock gearing maybe there would be 3 gears needed even though a 351/427 make more hp, so it could be slower.

So many varaibles. But if you are using a 302 motor its simply not going to put down enough tq low enough in the rev/spped range for straightline traction to be an issue, esp with track gearing.

Stock gearing with a 427 500ftbs + and over 550hp at lowish revs on street tires, yes traction could be an issue, as would gearbox life and halfshafts .

Want to go fast on track, add lightness, great springs/shocks and good brakes and a motor with a broad spread. Actualy the stock brakes are pretty good.

The biggest issue I have found is the car getting light at speeds of 140+ on bends, esp when the suspension unloads over even a mild rise, to a certain extent you can dial this out with a bit of rebound stiffness. Roll can also be an issue, swaybar adjustments mean prior shock settings no longer valid. My guess is lower power means you probably sort the suspension quicker and easier as the greater power can be used as a workaround and is another variable. There a re lots of varaibles to sort and understand to go fast in a Gt40.

Can the car handle 500 rwp, easily imo, but big hits of tq low down with short stock gearing as in a 427 could be an issue.

We seem to fixate on the mk2 at lemans. These were 4 speed boxes with really tall gearing to run lemans. Acceleration with the tall gearing was not spectacular, the goal was to run a low rev low stress motor for 24 hrs and acheive speed.

Look at performance stats for Mk1 Gt40s with even the later 425 ho 289s and things like 0-60 were what we would considder poor today, these cars often being geared for top end or at the very least a race track.

Today a higher hp motor with good revs and tq can get you great accelration as was found on setups in the 60s for shorter tracks while still maintaining higher top speeds due to extra hp at higher revs. In the 60s it was either accelration gearing or top end gearing, motors then being power/rev limited, modern motor setups can work around this.

Frankly 500rwp to me feels well within the chassis limits of the car.

A last note on weight, the 351 block is about 70lbs more than a 302, most of this excess weight is up top where you least need it. Your intake manifold will be heavier too, as will the crank conrods etc. So figure adding another 100-120+lbs to any 302 setup. On the street this may not be an issue at all. Hp is HP, but a 351 mtoor will make a lot more Tq and uaualy way lower down in the rev range, this will make accelration feel more epic, but can create traction issues too. Basicaly more than headline numbers it depends what motor/block you have, what gearing and tires you run.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
The 351 crank is significantly heavier than the 302, so I'd say the weight delta is distributed throughout the block. I ran a high-rever 289, and then went to the other end of the spectrum with a stroked 351W, and felt that the latter was the best set-up by far. It was a beast throughout the entire RPM range versus the 289's high end only torque. It had a good set of aftermarket heads and intake to keep the weight gain down, and the rod-length/stroke ratio was great with the longer rods. I think my 383 (stroked 351W) came out to be about 75 lbs in extra weight over the 289 when it was all said and done.
 
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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Yeah, they were the old J302 (Alan Root) heads, and the older Torker intake. I don't know for sure, but I think the stroker crank was lighter than the OEM 351W crank.
 
I can see putting a 351w on a diet will get the weight down but the same applies to the 302, there will always be a bigger pendulum effect with these bigger heavier engines if we are talking about shaving weight off. The 302 with its short stroke will always live longer when being buzzed around a track, piston speed of a 351w or a 347 stroker and the bearing surface speed of the 351w`s 3" diameter mains all suggest limited life at high rpm. The builds like the 383 and 408 with 4" strokes suffer HP loss with the associated friction of a long stroke.

Below is an example of why its better to go big bore short stroke if you want more cubes and HP. I am not anti stroker but feel they belong in a different app.

Bore 5.00" X Stroke 2.44" = 383 421TQ/4000rpm 380HP/5200rpm
Bore 4.03" X Stroke 3.75" = 383 417TQ/3700rpm 368HP/5000rpm
Bore 3.00" X Stroke 6.78" = 383 387TQ/3500rpm 313HP/4700rpm


 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Surprisingly large differences here. Unfortunately, the typical enthusiast is restricted to what is offered by the manufacturers in terms of block dimensions.
 
To put some real numbers to this.
My car with dart big bore 302 block ultra light weight crower crank aluminum heads etc scaled with full tanks at 2463 lbs, thats with a roll bar and ac. Headline Hp is 580 and 465 ft lbs Tq all pretty high up, which is fine for the track..

If you go with a 351 block it will weight more, as will, and FI setup, from my reading in excess of 100lbs more.. With over 60% of the weight at the rear is this a good place to be adding weight? Depends what you use the car for. If its for street the extra TQ low own on a 351 is appealing and provides huge thrill, plus its unlikely someone is maxing out cornering potential on the street so the differences in cornering on street are almost irrelevant. A 351 based motor will make more power for 50% less money.

However as someone here said, the most speed to be gained on track is through the bends. Thats going to be weight , weight distribution, setup, shocks, brakes and tires. Get that right and adding speed down the straights is easy.

Have more weight and low down Tq as with many 351 stroker 427's and its going to be harder/slower going into the bend, more unstable, and harder/slower putting the power down comming of the apex. Brakes and tires will fade quicker too.

We are not running lemans for 24 hrs here. Most tracks in the usa are 2-4 miles long with lots of bends.The requirements on track are different and imo significantly favor a 302.

On street its gotta be a 351 based motor and shorter gears 1-4 with a tallish 5th, giving epic acceleration with a calm cruising gear up top, which is what the standard gearing on the rbt delivers.

Horses for courses, depends where and how you use the car.

One thing I noticed 20 gals lasts about 1 hour on track. How much fuel did the lemans cars carry?
 

Keith

Moderator
That's what we call in England "revving the bollocks off it" :drunk:

A bit too much advance in there too perhaps or just weak gas? :)
 
Sean,

I'm curious about your gear ratios...do you mind sharing? Mine are tall....very tall. But I wanted a set up for top speed, not acceleration (I can do 60 + mph in first).

I'll look up my numbers and post them.

BTW, I'm running a stroked 351W (393) about 600 bhp and maybe 550 ft-lbs tq.
 
Sean,

I'm curious about your gear ratios...do you mind sharing? Mine are tall....very tall. But I wanted a set up for top speed, not acceleration (I can do 60 + mph in first).

I'll look up my numbers and post them.

BTW, I'm running a stroked 351W (393) about 600 bhp and maybe 550 ft-lbs tq.

I am tallish on 2 and 3 progressively shorter thereafter. Final is a 4.22 and 5th a 7.02. To run 200 mph I would need to pull 7400 rpm in 5th with +26inch tires.

1st gets to maybe 50 at 7k, 2nd 90, third low 120's and 4th 150, 5tha theoretical 185. Thats with 25.8 diameter rears. I nay event have not gone past about 165 on track.

IMO 2-4 could be a little shorter for track work, but it depends on the track,and there are not the ideal shorter ratios. For street 2 and 3 could easily be shorter for that low rev snap and 5th on a street box is invariable taller than mine.

In a few years I may try webbers for fueling precission(throttle oversteer off the apex is somehting to modulate.) and maybe a slightly softer cam to get the motor to be well on song by 3k rpm even if I loose 50 hp on top. This may give me more drive out of hairpin bends with less downshifting.

But then the current setup is close to ideal for somewhere like the glenn.

A 351 based motor with its big wide low down Tq band would obviate any of the above compromises, plus you then have to shift less and shfting the rbt/zf even with RHD pusrod setup is never going to be super quick. . I had thought to do an aluminum block big bore 351.
The positives are lower cost compared to a fully worked 302, Tq down low, low rev throttle response and less miantanance.

The drawbacks are slower to rev, weight which hurts corners and braking, and Dennis told me if I wanted to historic race it needed to be an iron 302 block to comply with current rules. The sound with open megs at 7k on my 302 is truly F1 car style epic.

Doing it again, if I didnt think to maybe historic race I would go even more pure track orientation, an aluminum 302 for even less weight on the rear, shorter gearing with a higher comp ratio moving the power into the 6-8k rev band. But that then is a pure race motor needing 113 octane and lots of valvetrain maint. So all in all I think my motor is great all around for what i want. Light weight, high rev great tq and hp, it just needs spinning to extract the most and was expensive to build.

Mine will run Ok on 93 for street use, but at the track we use 100 octane as the 11:1 comp ratio and timing advance is prob a bit much for 93 on a hot day.

In any event 600 hp is probbaly no big deal on these cars. HP is speed, Tq intial accleration. I would be more concerned about excess Tq from the stroked and bored 351's destroying halfshafts and causing traction issues off apex.

For track a 302 has a lot going for it, from weight to where the powerband is to historic relevance and vintage race ability.
But for the street a 351 is the ticket and an aluminum one even better. Weight is always an issue for speed.

BTW a great way to save weight is to run a shorai lithium battery, they weigh 5lbs so you loose what 45-50 lbs right infront of the right rear wheel, all for $380.

Would love to find some much lighter wheels as well. The BRM wheels are not bad, but loosing unsprung weigh is huge in terms of dynamics, and light wheels aid accleration and braking.
 
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Pete,

You posted a video of a car at Houston's cars and coffee. Who's car was that. His tag number is the same as mine except mine is a T tag. Mine is T 66GT40. I would like to talk to him.

-Bob Woods
 
Well this has been a great discussion, some very different points of veiw and all of them have merit. I'm going to add my 2 cents worth. When I was a young lad of about 17 I went to a talk being held at the Auckland Car Club buy one of NZs top Rally drivers/mechanics, Jim Donald. He gave a great talk about how to build good rally cars (Track cars aswell) the one thing that has always stuck in my mind was he said "when building a car from scratch you need a plan of what to do in a set order and the last thing on that plan should be the "ENGINE" He said, too many guys build the engine and then start putting the car around it, when you do this you inevitably run out of money and you end up with too much power and not enough car to handle it. If you do it the other way when you run out of money you have a great handling car and you learn to drive it better to make up for the lower power. The point I'm trying to make is a good CAR is not the sum of how much POWER it has but more the total package. Having said that I intend to get 900+hp from my 510 cube BBC in my M20 Replica but it will be the last part of the car I build, The most powerful thing I have built was 383 SBC in a Nissan Patrol winch challenge truck, Dyno'd at 385kw (500hp) rwhp. "There's no substitute for Cubic inch's"

Cheers Leon
 
The most powerful thing I have built was 383 SBC in a Nissan Patrol winch challenge truck, Dyno'd at 385kw (500hp) rwhp. "There's no substitute for Cubic inch's"

Cheers Leon

Thats exactly where strokers belong IMHO,a big heavy 4x4 or a drag car with big sticky slicks, loads of weight transfer and a trick stall converter/auto box. Hell can break out for about ten seconds and then shut it off. Rebuild after ten runs if it makes it that far :)

Only joking.

Bob
 

Keith

Moderator
It's also a culture thing. Europeans have been brought up on small displacement oversquare "screamers" and no doubt if the reverse was true, we'd also be endorsing strokers/cubic inches.

Having driven (raced) both types, I will conclude that in drag racing a big displacement stroker has few equals. I made a mistake and went for horsepower in a small block "screamer" Chevy, but got beat by lesser hp big blocks with "long arms" as often as not. However, there is something eminently satisfying about wringing out a small displacement high horsepower screamer in road racing. You get to exercise and combine so many complementary skills not least rev matching and getting the gear right for the corner (pre electronics of course!). Sure, it's a lot harder work than a big displacement torque monster, but to be honest, 20 laps of point and squirt got very boring for me personally. You know the kind of thing - that darned Chevron B16 up your inside at every corner but no worries, I just squirt past him on the straight. To me, that ain't real racing...

Weight is an important issue. I always fitted the lightest engine I could with regard to reliability. Engine lightness = free horsepower and a superior P.M.I.

If you want an easy life then go for the cubes and torque, if you want to become harmonious with the machinery and like a challenge then there's nothing like a slightly underpowered screamer to get the best out of yourself in the heat of competition..

When you get older and weaker, go for the cubes! :drunk:
 
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