Gd t70 #007

Neither did mine. But a drill and tap will fix that in short order. There are plenty of threads on the forum regarding G50 / 930 lubrication and how to set that up. Relatively inexpensive to do and I think if the cooler is located in the right place (mine isn't) then it'll cool well and take care of business. I too run good oil in the box but I don't think it'll survive 13 hour duty without cooling, at least not from the temps we've witnessed. The Porsche racers I've spoken to that race the 930 and G50 boxes indicate that cooling is critical to getting a decent service life from them.

thanks Ron, wasnt aware it was a big issue so off to have a read, this might be another winter mod then!
i tend to do trackdays (10-15mins on track then a break) or the odd sprint (warm car up then 50s sprint track) so altho the oil isnt hot for long i bet its getting a pasting.
cost me about £70 to fill the box!

out of interest, how much oil are people using in their G50s? mine is inverted and i seem to recall i have to run a bit more oil than a std fill.
 
Gents,

as per a request, a few dash photos. I ordered the cowl with a carbon dash, which was sanded down with fine grit sandpaper to give it a matt finish.

The aluminum dash below was given a black wrinkle coat, like the old camera my dad used to have. Then I had the switch labels burned into the paint with a laser. I'm screwed if I ever change the switch pattern, but for now it looks tasty.

One detail below that which may be hard to see is the gold anodized shift lever with some over the top machining. More than necessary for the purpose, but I like the way it looks.

Tom
 

Attachments

  • IMGP0962.jpg
    IMGP0962.jpg
    58.2 KB · Views: 456
  • IMGP0963.jpg
    IMGP0963.jpg
    48.6 KB · Views: 405
  • IMGP0964.jpg
    IMGP0964.jpg
    49.2 KB · Views: 410

Dave Lindemann

Lifetime Supporter
Gents,

as per a request, a few dash photos. I ordered the cowl with a carbon dash, which was sanded down with fine grit sandpaper to give it a matt finish.

The aluminum dash below was given a black wrinkle coat, like the old camera my dad used to have. Then I had the switch labels burned into the paint with a laser. I'm screwed if I ever change the switch pattern, but for now it looks tasty.

One detail below that which may be hard to see is the gold anodized shift lever with some over the top machining. More than necessary for the purpose, but I like the way it looks.

Tom

Beautifully done!

Dave L
 
really nice. noticed the centrally mounted gearshift?

by the way, you got the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car, easy mistake to make tho ;-)

looking great so far.
 
yeah, that whole "engine in the back" thing always screws me up. Hope I didn't rig the pedals backwards, too!
 
also was going to ask if you intended polishing the alloy surfaces in the cockpit like andy has done on their demo car? was toying with the idea and not really sure what is best to use to polish it up in terms of mops/compounds etc?
 
to my knowledge there's one other T70 in the US, as it happens it's only an hour away from me. There are a couple things on the car that I would have done differently, but there's no doubt it's a nice build.

As for polishing, probably not. Not having had an open top car before, I'm trying to minimize any opportunity for sunlight to reflect into my face. It's not likely there's an interior surface that would do that, but I don't want to discover the hard way which one will reflect. Beyond that, I tend to like matt surfaces more than glossy (body work excepted).
 
to my knowledge there's one other T70 in the US, as it happens it's only an hour away from me. There are a couple things on the car that I would have done differently, but there's no doubt it's a nice build.

As for polishing, probably not. Not having had an open top car before, I'm trying to minimize any opportunity for sunlight to reflect into my face. It's not likely there's an interior surface that would do that, but I don't want to discover the hard way which one will reflect. Beyond that, I tend to like matt surfaces more than glossy (body work excepted).

andy has polished the step in areas where your arms rest once seated and it looks quite good, dont think it would reflect in my eyes, but not convinced its worth the effort as you step in/out over the area constantly anyway

what level of bhp/torque are you hoping for on your build?
 
before I add the pink alcantara, I must hang a disco ball from the roll bar.
That'll go with my 400,000 watt stereo in the back.

Engine did 575 HP during break-in on dyno. Consistent with my build philosophy - "you gotta say yes to another excess" (to quote from the band Yello).
 
575bhp will be great! :)

i went in steves red 7 litre car (the one in the Nurburgring 7min odd lap on the GD site) which had circa 680bhp and that was probably too much for the car, mine is nice with probably just 450-500bhp, your should be just about right then with that much!
 
Hi Tom,

can you measure something up for me?,

I nee the hight of the flat surface on the dashbord in the center above the steeringwheel, or the hight of the Spa design dash you have in there, I have a Stack ST8031P dash for mine but am not till today sure that it will fit in that area....

you're gear stick looks sweet, I have made mine center shift aswell as you know out of welded steel, but the difference is mine doesn't show any of its parts below the center chassis tube,
you are still going to use the GRP race shell type seat?

just when we're actually talking disco and pink paint for these, I would surely ad some neons to the underside and engine bay aswell,!
how much fun would that be, just put them in there and show up with you 500bhp monster at some chav's meeting, euuurrhmmm wanna race?

regards Thomas
 
Thomas,

I got the measurements; directly above the steering shaft, the instrument cluster measures 10cm to the outer edges of the face flange. The dashboard measures about 11 cm in the same spot.

Be aware that the lower edge of the dash is straight, while the upper portion arcs downwards in the exact vicinity of the pod. Also, the return on underside of the dash will prevent the pod from sitting down all the way on the dash face if it is inset. Finally, if you mount the gauge cluster directly above the steering column, it will not appear directly in the middle of the steering wheel, as the shaft comes out at a slight angle from parallel to the center of the car. That's how mine is, I don't think I could get it further left without running into the narrowing section of the dash.

The gauge cluster I have is quite deep, and needs to be inset in the dash. If the Stack dash is too big, but not too deep, consider mounting it right onto the dash surface.

Re street racing, I'm sure there are about 65,000 ways to wrap this thing around a tree/telephone pole. So I'll be keeping that to an absolute minimum.

Best,

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

thanx for the info, just ran down the stairs and measured the Stack at 103mm from bezel edge to bezel edge at the higest point so it fit's.

the stack 8100 series display has a very shallow casing (+/- 35mm or so) so that would not be a problem.

I agree to the fulliest on the street racing part, unless the streets are called, nurnburg or ring or such......

Thanx very much for the info.
 
Hi Tom,

thanx for the info, just ran down the stairs and measured the Stack at 103mm from bezel edge to bezel edge at the higest point so it fit's.

the stack 8100 series display has a very shallow casing (+/- 35mm or so) so that would not be a problem.

I agree to the fulliest on the street racing part, unless the streets are called, nurnburg or ring or such......

Thanx very much for the info.


Thomas- any update on your build so far?
 
Hi Chris,

unfortunately not too much progress recently - work has been quite busy (thankfully!) and we're moving to a new house in the near future. Fortunately, it has a 3 car carriage house, so i'll have more room for working on the beast. I plan to get back into it hard come fall.

Tom
 
Back
Top