Header for a 427 IR from roush
- Thread starter Merlin2222
- Start date
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Tony Law Exhausts in Leeds has done a number of exhausts for 302 cars
No doubt he could make a good exhaust for your car but would need the car at his site in Leeds to fabricate directly on the car.
I believe he now charges about £1100 for a 302 exhaust in mild steel
Ian
No doubt he could make a good exhaust for your car but would need the car at his site in Leeds to fabricate directly on the car.
I believe he now charges about £1100 for a 302 exhaust in mild steel
Ian
Urs,
Stainless Headers, Inc., is finishing up my system for a 351 based engine. Chris is the guy you want to talk to. They do great work and are reasonably priced, they will also send pics as they progress with your system. I had them install double slip connectors between the primary and collector for a tighter seal (o2 sensors), and a v-band clamp after the collector so I can easily switch between mufflers and megaphones. Turnaround time was a week for me. Stainless Headers Mfg
You can reach Chris here: [email][email protected][/email]
Good luck!
Tom
Stainless Headers, Inc., is finishing up my system for a 351 based engine. Chris is the guy you want to talk to. They do great work and are reasonably priced, they will also send pics as they progress with your system. I had them install double slip connectors between the primary and collector for a tighter seal (o2 sensors), and a v-band clamp after the collector so I can easily switch between mufflers and megaphones. Turnaround time was a week for me. Stainless Headers Mfg
You can reach Chris here: [email][email protected][/email]
Good luck!
Tom
Last edited:
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Robert S.
GT40s Supporter
Good idea Gary, especially since they are so s u c k c e s f u l with exhaust systems in general. Over the past eight months while I awaited by car, I spoke to many members of this forum and most all of the companies mentioned in this thread. I was a genuine potential cash customer for an exhaust for my GT40. That being said, here are highlights of some of what I was told, and the reasons I decided to just use the exhaust that was supplied with my vehicle (For the time being, anyway).
I kind of put my interests into five categories, not necessarily in order of priority: Cost, Potential performance increase, Appearance, Insulation from heat transfer, and Longevity of Appearance (What degree of appearance degradation is associated with periodic cleanings and polishings).
Cost for fabing SS ranged from $7k to $3.5k, plus freight. Many fabers said they left the round weld rings, because they said: they would have to charge more if they had to grind them and polish them, and, because of the thin metal, grinding would no doubt weaken the joints, and they would not guarantee joints that were subject to grinding. Comment: likely mostly all true, but probably creates doubts in buyers' minds.
Potential performance increase would only be important to consider if H.P. was larger than typical, and the need for larger diameter tubing was therefore worthy of consideration. Some said larger is not needed since there were no cat-converters, no heavelly baffled mufflers, and no long tailpipes. Others opined that large cubic inch blocks, huge valves, heads with large exhaust ports, etc., need larger diameter exhaust snakes to not impede all of the efforts to make the engine breath effectively. Comments: too many variables to make a decision on real need, and not on such things as impulse, emotion, and merely visual size.
Appearance was important for me due to the car-show factor. Unfortunately, appearance can become entangled with inside and outside ceramic coating, if such coating is opted for. This element alone make making a decision difficult. For me, I loved the look and patina of chrome, or polished stainless steel when it turned various light shades of gold and blue. However, chrome steel would rust out quickly, even if it were ceramic coated on the inside - in any event, more quickly than stainless steel would even if it were not coated. One can chrome stainless steel, but it cost a fortune. The answer to the riddle came for me when I stood inside a performance shop that for decades, specialized in working on GT40s and Cobras. One day the shop owner said look at this. And he pointed down to the big side pipes on a Cobra and said this car has been in use for six years, and like most Cobras, it was driven many more miles than a GT40 would typically be driven. The pipes and collector, all in plain view, all had a slightly polished look, with no pitting, or changing of colors, etc. He then pointed to another Cobra that had been driven for only two years, and equipped with identical outside pipes and collector. Toward the exhaust tips, there were areas of shiny polished S.S. But as I looked up the length of pipe towards the collector, it began to be come really dark purple and around the joint of the collector, it was so dark that it appeared as black soot. Seeing was believing, even more than photos ever were. I decided I would use the stock ceramic coated bundle of snake headers that was included with my SPF.
Insulation of heat transfer was another aspect I was interested in. Sadly, there were two or more versions of ideas on the use of ceramic exhaust tube coating. Some contend that it controls heat by disallowing it to bleed off the outside of the pipe, i.e., the ceramic coating both inside and out acted like an insulator. Others said that the coating slowed the heating up of the exterior of the exhaust, but that eventually it would become 1,000 degrees f., in a relatively short period of time.
Longevity of Appearance: The majority of consensus on the longevity of the exterior ceramic coating indicated that one could polish it with chrome of SS polish, no coarse abrasives, and that the coating would last a good many years if no harmful brake fluid or other chemicals were allowed to drip or form on it when it reached normal operating temperature. It was also agreed my many that the outside coating could eventually be removed and re-coated, when or if needed, though I have yet to meet anyone that has mentioned they've done that.
BTW, I spoke to Mark from Roush Saturday night about the Borla manifold for my engine build. He was in Kentucky for a auto show. The bench flow air volume test data on the manifold I purchased from you (Borla) tended to support your company's specifications for that product.
All good things, Robert
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