IDF Weber set up from racetep.com

Hey
Guys I'm thinking about purchasing a 8 stack IDF set up from these guys
Ford V8 Webers 818 764-1901

Has anyone used these Guys before?
and for all the Weber experts out there please comment on this set up
and any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 

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I got the book Weber Carburetors by Pat Braden which has a good write up on setting up some Quad IDF's on a SBC. I've played with 45 DCOE's before so hoping that quads should be similiar in setting up. Any other reading material recommended and does anyone have a copy of Olivers CD
as I might need it aswell.
 
There is a set being sold by an individual on the Club Cobra site. Appears to be a good price too.
 
that seems a reasonable price for the IDF's to me, and I hear that IDF's are a littler easier to tune than IDA's. The set up should work well with a mild 302
 
Dave,

I have a Factory Five Roadster with 48mm IDF's. If you or anyone else buys these I have a solution for the linkage problems, (Yes there is a problem.) Since there in no boss in the middle of the intake,( Design Flaw IMHO) some minor mods have to be made. There are several ways to do this. Also the accelerator pump shafts hit every valve cover I tried, (Lots.) I modded my covers, another put carb spacers to lift the carbs up.

I not selling any product, but I will show anyone how I overcame the problems I encountered with the IDF's. ( Homemade solution.)

When I purchased these last year I got ZERO help from the vendor on how to set up linkage, tune them or information on them. After having them running on a 331 for the last 6 months, Ive become semi-pro :) with IDF's.

YES,, I would use them again facing the same problems I had.

Again, anyone with questions or anyone that found this post by searching that needs help. Let me know.

Cheers,
 
Pierce Manifolds sells the center piece for 12 bucks that you bolt to the manifold to hook up a center pull for the linkage. It looks stock when on, and took me all of 5 minutes to measure and put it on. Also Stephen at Pierce knows the linkage parts needed for center pull set up and sells them all. here are some pics of the piece.

weberlink001.jpg
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Hey
Guys I'm thinking about purchasing a 8 stack IDF set up from these guys
Ford V8 Webers 818 764-1901

Has anyone used these Guys before?
and for all the Weber experts out there please comment on this set up
and any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers

I purchased a TWM and Halltech EFI from them. They are local and were pretty helpful. Ask for Steve.

Sandy
 
Frank any chance of a pic of your fix??

Thanks Chuck ,may have to look them up, do you have a link??

Cheers Guys.:)
 
Dave, heres the crude working solution. I made a plate thats affixed to the 4 inside carb bolts. I used a stock EFI throttle cable and L shaped cable housing holder to secure the cable to the plate. All of the linkage lines up and pulls straight with no binds. I planned on cleaning things up after my testing of its done. I wanted to see if I stressed anything by doing it this way. So far it looks great. 4k miles.

The other way would be putting the boss in the middle of the intake as shown above. I'll admit it scared me a little bit doing it that way. I would have most likely welded it in the middle if I went that direction.

Either way would be fine for me. Although the boss would probably look better, or correct.

platecrank.jpg


platecrank1.jpg
DSCN1206.jpg
 
my 427 has the cross piece bolted to the carb base and it works quite well, notice the way the linkage arms are set up differently than mustang11460 however

cav.jpg
 
I was hoping this winter to clean mine up and have it look a little more like the one Chuck shows above.

Certinally glad to see a few other ideas.

*Note, mine would be pulling from the rear on the GT40. Not sure if that would be the desired location for most of you. I doubt routing it around the distributor would be anymore trouble?
 

Chuck

Supporter
Here is a pic of the accelerator pumps of the IDFs hitting the Gureney-Weslake valve covers. Have not yet tackled this issue. I suspect may have to grind away a bit of aluminum to give it adequate clearance. If any one comes up with a better solution, let me know.

By the way, the "Ford Racing" covers that came with my engine did not seem to have this clearance problem.

Chuck
 

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Dave, Inglesse # NG1013 is a spacer for under the carb, $25ea X 8. .... A member on another website found them. I might have went that way if I had known about them at the time.

( Hold on for this ) I drilled corresponding holes in each valve cover. I pressed in 1/4 copper pipe end caps into the cover, (Think freeze plug.) When the shaft moves toward the cover, it goes into the relief area.

My way works fine and certinally would be an option for those with tight hood clearance. Otherwise the spacers would be the way to go.

Hopefully all of these methods discussed can help people decide what they want to use. Instead of eating up time figuring out how to make things work.

freeze.jpg


freeze3.jpg
 
phenolic spacers will help by raising the throttle body enough to clear the covers and provide heat insulation for the webers. Of course it only works if you have enough room to close the hood or rear hatch.
 
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