James' GT-Forté scratch build GT40 MkI

James:
I remember being where you are back in 2008. Looking forward to watching your progress.
If you have plans your one up on me. Have fun Dave
 
Hi Dave - been enjoying following your build too. Yes, I think having some plans to follow will make it a little easier!

Hi Keith. For the main chassis, I've got a steel framed table which I'm going to mount some boards to (as pictured). These are 21mm thick, flat and pretty stiff. I'll set up a similar jig system as what I've done for the upper rails above.

The chassis can be made in two main flat sections (lower and middle rails) which are then joined together. So I'm hoping with this set up there shouldn't be too much distortion.
 

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Got the upper rails welded up.

Next step is to build the build table. I'm going to store the engine at the back of the garage and need to get it there before building the table. But I can't get hold of the engine for a few weeks, so will have to find some other jobs to do in the meantime...
 

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Got the engine into the garage this weekend. Managed to get the torque converter off and mounted onto the engine stand.

It feels good to have the engine in the garage. Hopefully the next time it leaves the garage it will be under its own power in a GT40!
 

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Finished the build table - all flat and level. I've also got some 7/16" UNF threaded tubes for the seat belt fixings.
 

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I picked up a small lathe over the weekend. It's a Myford M type from 1946. The plan is to strip it down, clean and re-paint it. I haven't used a lathe since I was at school, so will be nice to be able to use one again. Will hopefully use it to make a few parts for the GT40...
 

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Nice.
I've got a 1946/47 Harrison L5 myself.

Looks like it has quite a bit of tooling with it too. In my experience that's what really costs!

A lathe is a wonderful tool only limited by your imagination!
 
Yep - it came with loads of cutting tools, inside & outside 3 jaw chucks and a couple of drill chucks. Don't think I have everything to do screw cutting, but I can't imagine doing much of that anyway.

I'm currently reading [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amateurs-Lathe-Lawrence-H-Sparey/dp/0852422881/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1352477328&sr=1-1"]The Amateur's Lathe[/ame] which was originally published in 1948. The language may be a little old but given lathe technology hasn't changed much it's still all very relevant. Think it has everything I'll need to know about lathes :).

The Harrison L5 looks nice too. Not sure I'd have enough space in my garage for one though!
 
A good book, although a little old the techniques haven't changed (although trickier to get whale oil now).

For the smaller stuff you can just use taps and dies, but you have of course to buy one for each size, plus you can't do stuff like tapers. Still, I've only done a couple of threads on mine.

The L5 is large but very solid, I do wish I had a DRO though.

Do you have a vertical slide so you can do some milling?
 
I've got a basic set of taps and dies and can add to it as necessary. Don't think I'll be needing a massive range of them as long as everything I need to do is metric.

A vertical slide would definitely be nice. Will look at options if I need to do any milling.

Not sure about a DRO - think I'll be ok with a caliper :). You could make your own though, like... [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maB28gXoZV4"]here![/ame]
 
Hi James,
Just a few items of interest, having built an almost copy of a GTD chassis a few years ago. Are you working to a set of dimensions supplied by your body supplier.
What size sq tube are you using for the main rails 40x40x16swg ( 1.62mm ) ?
Also any lathe will be a good investment for your project I have made shed loads of parts.
Hows it going so far.
Cheers
 
Hi Keith

Yes - I got a set of chassis plans with the body, which I'm working to. I need to widen the engine bay so that I can fit the Audi V8 in. Darren (GTS) has also provided my with the drawings for his Coyote / Roadrunner chassis which has a wider engine bay so I'll likely follow this.

Yes, the main rails are 40x40x16swg. 32 metres of it in fact!

I've started cutting the lengths for the lower chassis rails. Really enjoying using the chop saw - just swing it to the angle you want then chop! The lathe is a bit of a distraction at the minute as I want to get it up and running before retuning to the lower rails. But sounds like it will definitely be worth the effort.

Thanks for taking an interest - really appreciate input from someone with experience!
Cheers
James
 
Lathe definitely lots of use, as an example the last things I used mine for were turning two pieces of box into U shaped sections of accurate but differing heights (which I'll drill, weld on weldnuts, weld to the chassis and attach the footpedals to), and creating spacers for my throttle bodies (which I haven't finished btw, otherwise I'd have put up an update!)
 
Hi James, A thought entered my head, looking back at the GTD drawings they show the main rails as 40 x 40 x 2.5mm thick. Are your plans showing 16swg thick = aprox
1.62 mm
Also GTD 25 x 25 sq tubes were 2mm thickness.
Can you confirm what you are using ?
Also is the chassis you are building wider than the old GTD 's as say the SGT ones are
More leg room and width ?
Cheers
 
Yes, all rails are 16swg. The roll cage is 12swg.

Not sure what dimensions the GTDs are, but the GTS chassis internal cockpit width is 1060mm. Less a bit if you have the gear stick on the right instead of on the tunnel.
 
Interesting , perhaps now 16 swg is proven just as strong with the benifit of less weight.
I know Ultimas chassis is 16 swg round.
& GTD 's chassis were heavy.
Cheers
Keep up the good work
 
Hi James, I have made an enquiry about the steel thickness and I think is is worth you checking it out. Just in case.
I have been informed that GTD originally used 3mm thickness then reduced this to
2.5mm.
There plans show 2.5mm as well.
Ray Christopher of GTD 's did make a 2mm lightweight version. But not smaller.
Forgive me for questioning this but it's a just in case thing.
I may be wrong.
Speak to you plans man.
 
I can't comment on the GTD but 1.5mm tube properly triangulated should be fine. The locost plans for example call for 1.5mm/16swg but only in 25mm tubing.
 
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