Need cooling help please

From the build logs. These are mk1 mounts for small block.
 

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At this point I am wondering if there are engine mounts that don't intrude as much into the oil pan area.

Also, is it possible to raise the engine enough to swap out the mounts without fully removing the engine?
 
Mike, you might want to give Dennis Olthoff a call, or someone else with lots of SPF experience, he can probably recommend the best way for you to proceed.
 
From Olthoff just now:

"Loosen the vertical bolts going into the block. About 3/8"

Loosen the 2 long bolts through the mount. Leave them in.

Lift the motor 1/2" and the mounts will rotate enough for the pan to fit through.

You can use a jack with a 2x4 on the crankshaft damper to lift

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Dennis."
 
At this point, what is left attached to prevent you from just pulling the motor and trans together and allowing you to do this right. I would lift it out and redo the pan gasket with full access.
 
As far as I can tell, most of the items are disconnected. The AC compressor is a bit in the way...it is tight in that corner.

Other than that, I just lack the the equipment and help to pull it (and the rear shell) and the space to store the rear shell and to work on the motor. I I have the car on a 4 post lift right now in a small tight garage and can access it all fine if I can get the motor mounts out of the way and drop the pan.
 
Some success today while following D. Olthoff's directions. The oil pan is off.

Does anyone know what brand this oil pan is? This is a Roush crate 427R from 2006 vintage. Now some cleaning and prep for reassembly...and another trip away for a few weeks.
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Nice work Mike, reassembling it all should be great fun… ;)

I would suggest a stud kit for the pan, it would make it easier for you to align the gaskets and pan working from underneath like that. I used a Canton Racing kit from Summit. CTR-22-360.
 

David Garton

Supporter
Get the pan gasket from Ford. 2003 E-150 with 5.0 liter. It will be one piece rubber with metal eyelets in all the bolt holes and don't forget to put the re-enforcement rails back up with the pan. 3M weatherstrip adhesive on block surface and the gasket will stay in place . This was the hardest procedure for you but you are in better shape when done.
 
Interesting idea on the stud kit Michael. The FelPro gasket I bought has some plastic studs included. I can think of a few places, like under the motor mounts, where studs might be a better solution that the bolts.

David, I am not sure if I am reading you correctly. I was under the impression that it was best to tack the half moon sections of the new gasket to the pan first...are you suggesting that a few dabs of 3M on the block surface will help prevent the gasket moving when the pan is first brought together with the block? Or are you saying to tack the gasket to the block and the half moons to their upper mating surfaces and then bring the pan up?
 

David Garton

Supporter
Interesting idea on the stud kit Michael. The FelPro gasket I bought has some plastic studs included. I can think of a few places, like under the motor mounts, where studs might be a better solution that the bolts.

David, I am not sure if I am reading you correctly. I was under the impression that it was best to tack the half moon sections of the new gasket to the pan first...are you suggesting that a few dabs of 3M on the block surface will help prevent the gasket moving when the pan is first brought together with the block? Or are you saying to tack the gasket to the block and the half moons to their upper mating surfaces and then bring the pan up?
Mike , First let's make sure you are using the newer style one piece rubber pan gasket. In the beginning we were advising with the pan left on and it being an old style cork gasket with half moon ends you would trim the cork gaskets for the timing cover only and glue in the half moon. Once you took it apart and mentioned the eyelet rings we determined you had a newer style one piece rubber gasket. Yes 3m the half moons in place and tach the rail part of the gaskets in place. Hope this make sense.
 
Now test fitting the gasket to the oil pan, all holes line up, but one thing has me scratching my head. The oil pan has a pronounced rib in the half moons, but the gasket is flat across that area...this reduces the contact surface on the bottom sides of the half moon....hmmm.

Does Roush publish a maintenance parts list for their crate motors? I haven't found one yet.
 
Canton shows the following gasket set for their pan: 4 piece job. I would ask them.

 
That one piece gasket is a really good one. Just be sure to put the timing cover on first. Those plastic inserts for the pan make it so you do not need the RTV or weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket in place (save them in your tool box for another job they work well). The inserts will hold the gasket in place while you set the pan. I would still RTV or weatherstrip the 90 degree corners. Done!

Great job. You will be glad you did it right the first time.
 
That one piece gasket is a really good one. Just be sure to put the timing cover on first. Those plastic inserts for the pan make it so you do not need the RTV or weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket in place (save them in your tool box for another job they work well). The inserts will hold the gasket in place while you set the pan. I would still RTV or weatherstrip the 90 degree corners. Done!

Great job. You will be glad you did it right the first time.
By 90 degree corners. I mean at the transition to the half moon bends.
 
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