New to the forum. Steer me in the right direction

Hi guys,

I have been lurking for a few days reading post after post. I have been a GT40 nut since my days in junior high but it was always a pipe dream. With Ford introducing the new GT, I have been completely absorbed by it and after doing some research decided I must own one - a replica that is as 150K will not happen. Of course, I have a 68 Mustang Vert in the garage now under major reconstruction and have been informed by the wife no new projects until I complete it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

So I am in the knowledge absorbtion phase for the time being trying to learn and understand the differences, pros/cons, etc. of the different kits. I have looked at DRB, MDA, ERA, etc. but am too much of a neophyte to know which is better or rather the benefits of choosing one particular kit over another.

Any materials, sites, opinions would be welcome. I am informed by DRB they have a car in Tenn so I am contemplating a trip there to see a real life example as I am located in Kentucky and it 'ain't' that far a drive.

As a side note, I have throughly enjoyed reading and viewing the posts by Hershal and others of their cars and build experiences. Thanks to all you guys that make this board such an inviting and enjoyable place.

 

[Mike Dozier]

Welcome Robert

Always fun to hear from new voices.
Your question is the one asked the most...and the most
difficult to answer.

That is so because (as I'm sure you'll discover)
different people have different tastes.
And most kits can be put together to a very high
standard...or a mediocre standard. So there is no
simple answer to your question. Do your homework.

One frustration a lot of potential owners/builders
have is the lack of completed examples within driving
distance to examine. GT40s are still a VERY rare breed, with while we on the Forum are trying to spread the word,
it's going to be a while before running examples of
the major kit makers will be found throughout the US.

So again welcome and best of luck!

MikeD

 

[Kevin M]

First figure out what you are after.

Do you want a fun project and a high performance car that looks like a GT40, or do you want it to be as perfect a copy of an original as you can afford? Is it just for fun on the street, or do you intend to take it to the track and race it?

The answers to those sort of questions are going to steer you to some replicas and away from others.

There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site. Some of whom own original cars. If you can be more specific about what you want and how you plan to use it, I’m sure they can help you a lot better.

 

Hi Robert, Welcome to the forum. I am a roaring forties owner. I also live in Kentucky, in the Louisville area. We have a factory built Mark l that we use primarily as a track car. Anyone who has seen this car in action can tell you that has done very well (great track car). I will also be receiving a MARK ll from Robert threw Hershal in February. Feel free to come by and check us out any time.

 

Hi guys,

Thanks for the responses so far - more details to help you help me.

My prime concern is streetability. I plan to drive it as much as possible. I guess the key ingredients here are good solid body panels and a decent suspension setup although I expect the ride to suffer a bit from our great roads here in Kentucky. I am not at all familiar with the differences between the types of chassis offered and uncertain what makes what better or more suitable to my needs. I would like a car that stylistically resembles the originals as closely as possible but am not a 'perfect' reproduction guy.

All that said, I would still love one I could take for 'fun' races at the track on occasion; I am a former motorcyle road racer (Dayton, Atlanta, Miami) and enjoy the racing and speed. My wife is very insistent I am too old and broken up to participate in motorcycle racing again so maybe I can swing the auto racing angle.

To be completely honest, I would be thrilled just to have a primer painted body and chassis sitting in the garage to drool over.

 

[Kevin M]

It sounds like you are looking for a project and not a turnkey car. Do you want to build it yourself? (Or need to for cost reasons?)

If that is the case, that would eliminate CAV since they only sell rollers. If a roller is OK check: http://www.cavgt.com/ . (This is a monocoque car)

The original cars had a monocoque chassis. To generalize some, a monocoque car will probably be more expensive than a spaceframe car. Either can make a very good racecar and a good street car if they are properly designed.

ERA makes a very nice, but somewhat expensive monocoque car. Their website is: http://www.erareplicas.com/ . The last time I talked to someone there they were a little over 2 years back on delivery. (Although if your Mustang is going to take 18 months to finish, that could work out just fine)

Roaring Forties makes a very nice spaceframe car that has had some chassis redesign from a racecar designer. It looks like a GT40 inside and outside and should make a good track car if set up properly. Website: http://www.roaringforties.com.au/ .

There is also MDA who make a spaceframe car. This is a British kit and you can check the Forums for people over there with experience with this car. Website: http://www.gt40uk.com/ .

 

Hi,

Thanks for the web links. At one point in time or another I have seen the CAV's and ERA's. Too much $ for me and I really want to do more of the building. So it kind of points to the MDA, RF, DRB, and I guess the TS although that one is rarely mentioned on this forum. I guess my question boils down to what are the differences in terms of chassis, components, and body work between these kits both functionally and quality wise? Read all the stuff on the sites but really how do you know what this ones space frame is better than that ones space frame? They all laud their body work so how do you know which one offers the 'heavier' glass which will stand up to road use without cracking? Thanks guys for the responses and I look forward to more of your input.

 

[James]

I am biased. But look no further than an MDA. I really do not think that you will find a better space frame package. You will find countless posts about the MDA. I suggest you do a search for MDA and see what you come up with.

I would also recommend emailing Mark Sibley of MDA to find out more. His prices etc. are posted on his website. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Regards,

J.P

 

[Bill Musarra]

Robert,
Welcome to the forum. I own a DRB and am in the middle of the build phase. I selected the DRB for several reasons. First was the price. The original owner had it for 4 years and never completed it and pressure from his girlfriend for a house led to a quick sale at a price that was very good. If you look long enough, you can pick up a used kit, either finished or partialy done for a good price. Look through the for sale section.
Second, I researched all the manufactures and picked out their better points.
RF for their completeness, attention to detail and customer support (MDA was not in business at that time, but my dealings with Mark put him in the same category, = to RF).
Third was the construction of the DRB. It is a space frame with welded rather than riveted panels, which to me, regardless of sealers will develop rattles at high stress points sooner or later. They are welded to withstand the Australian roads (Probably very close to Kentuckys). I have had a little trouble with customer support, but I didn't buy my kit from the factory, it was built by the previous owner of DRB and was slightly different from the ones they are turning out now, and they were in a building crunch with 8 cars on order, which kept them busy.
Fourth, the suspension is 85-87(C-4) Corvette. So If I have a problem, I can visit any corvette shop for repairs.
Fifth(?), was the leg room. Not many of the manufactures talk abouot this. The CAV for example has you sitting at an angle with your feet aimed toward the middle of the car, and there is little room to move around. A good friend of mine, and CAV owner, has to wear his "racing" shoes and cannot wear regular "tennis" shoes or street shoes due to contact with more than one pedal. Thats how cramped they can be.
And last, I wanted a space frame because I know that somewhere down the line when I least expect it, some idiot is going to run into me, or I'll get too aggesive on the track and have to do some structural repairs. Space frames, you just cut out at a joint and weld a new section in. Monos are not so easily repaired in my opinion. I might be wrong on this point, but I believe the space frames are stronger.
If you are in the Atlanta area there are about 5 of us within about a 20 mile radius with I believe 5 different brands that you could look at. Two of us are still in the build phase and are hoping to be complete by summer. So if you are in the neighborhood give us a call. Chip, Joseph, or me, in the Snellville, Decatur area.
Bill

 

[Kevin M]

Bill,

What is the URL for DBRs website?

Kevin

 

[Bill Bayard]

Try www.gt40australia.com


The other DRB Bill (#35)

 

[Kevin M]

Bill Bayard,

What wheels are those on your car? Are they Simmons? And what size are they?

You get used to only seeing the cars with the original wheels, but those look good on the car.

Kevin

 

[Mark Worthington]

Welcome, Robert. My advice to you is to spend a lot of time with the search function of this forum and try to look at as many cars as you can. Bill's comments are very good; like him, I also bought a partially built kit at a discount to what the kit would've cost direct from the manufacturer. The downside to that approach is that you may have trouble locating all the parts and you may want to re-do certain things the previous owner did. I am fortunate in that I have enjoyed the same level of factory support from RF as I would have if I had bought the kit dorectly from them. Bill also makes a good point regarding differences in interior layout and room from kit to kit. I will append his comments to say that RF has the cleanest air conditioning system installation that I've seen on a replica...AC on some other kits was clearly an afterthought. We builders have a lot of pride in our individual vehicles (emphasis on individual) and we will tend to wave the flag for our respective kit manufacturers. Some, as you've already seen on this thread, will wave that flag a lot more fanatically and subjectively than others. Regardless of which kit you choose, we can all agree that the GT40 is a fantastic car and that owning one is a rare privelige.

Good luck!

 

[Mike Dozier]

Robert

IMHO the frames/bodies of the major makers you mentioned
are all excellent and can yield a reliable car you'll
be proud of. The key is in the execution.

Georgia Bill makes a good point.
The available footspace on early replicas is very limited.
Be sure you sit in the actual model before purchasing.
Current models from most makers have addressed that issue.

Customer service is also an issue, since (other than RF)
build manuals by and large are poor. Fortunately there is
now enough talent on this Board to solve most problems.
Best of luck.

MikeD

 

How much hp do you want to put into your 40 replica.

 

[Bill Bayard]

Kevin,

They are indeed 3 pc. Simmons rims. 8"&10", with 225/50ZR16

and 255/50ZR16 Falken tires. BTW, you have mail.


Bill

 

Hi guys,

Thanks to all who have provided assistance. Bill Bayard really answered everything for me - I want HIS car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The discussions and my questions will go on for a long while; it took me two months of research to settle on a vacuum cleaner. I am anal that way - when I purchase something I want to know everything there is to know and I strive to purchase the best based on my needs and the criteria defining 'best'.

I ultimately would like to know the differences between a MTD chassis and a DRB chassis - others as well. The biggest thing that struck me and I am still dumbfounded is the idea some of the chassis are held together with rivets. I understand, I think, the floor panels, firewalls, etc. are attached with rivets to the actual frame tubing but still...I would be spot welding myself silly.

Read a hundred or more posts today, the previous day, and before that - learned the DRB body was taken from a plug not an actual car yet is somehow close to the original. Learned MTD is run by a former employee or principal of GTD and their molds are(were) originally taken from a real car?

Learned some guy named Chris is incredible with glass work.

Learned Hershal is a bona fide GT40 nut who will tour around the country helping others get their projects going for three hots and a cot. (Oh, yeah, and he really knows his stuff.)

Learned Robert is really active on these boards and I am impressed given his position with RF. Would really like to see a head to head between his car, the fellow in New Zealand, and Peter at GT40 Australia.

Learned all you guys are a great group and I can't wait to begin this project and drive to some events. In fact, I plan on driving to some before my project ever gets off the ground.

Feel free to bounce whatever other information you have, lessons learned etc. Pointers to unfinished projects lying around for sale would be interesting. Still have lots more homework to do and the previously mentioned Mustang to complete - hell of a project in and of itself: The entire chassis is being rebuilt (floors, frame rails, torque boxes, etc. being replaced), new quarter panels, conversion to 4 wheel disk, conversion to t-5, rebuilt rear end, all new interior. It might as well have shown up in a box. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Bill Bayard]

Robert,

You have started off on the right foot! Research, research,

research!

If you liked the outside view of my car, how about this? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


Bill

 

[Mark Worthington]

[ QUOTE ]
The biggest thing that struck me and I am still dumbfounded is the idea some of the chassis are held together with rivets. I understand, I think, the floor panels, firewalls, etc. are attached with rivets to the actual frame tubing but still...I would be spot welding myself silly.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ummm, just so you are clear on the matter, none of the chassis are held together by rivets. The space-frame replicas (RF, GT40 Australia, GTD, MDA) use a frame of welded mild steel tubing as the chassis. The aluminum (or stainless steel, if you wish) panels that are riveted do the chassis are (or at least should be) non-structural and only serve to define the tub. Well, OK, they're structural to the extent you'll attach things to them like brake lines, fuel pumps and windshield washer reservoirs, but the structural ridgidity of a car, which has an awful lot do do with how well the car handles and how safe the car is, depends much more on the tube frame than on the panels or how they are attached. Even if they did carry a significant part of the structural load, there is no drawback to using rivets, as they are strong fasteners in shear and hold lots of things togeether quite well, like Boeing 747s. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Kevin M]

Robert,

As mark said, every commercial jet you have ever flown on is held together by millions of rivets, not welds. Rivets are a very good way to connect sheet metal.

Also realize that a “Head to Head” between any two cars you see will not tell you all that much. These cars are all built different and an RF with a ZF box and a 427 Windsor will be a completely different car from an RF with an Audi box and a 302.

Wheel and tire choices will make a huge difference in performance as well.

The best thing is to look at the glass quality, the welding work on the frames, suspension design, and the basic standard of engineering of the cars you see. Workmanship and performance will have a lot more to do with the builder than with the brand of kit.

Have Fun,

Kevin