stop light switch

I was just about to permantly mount the SLS and weld a tang on the brake push rod when I noticed that rod travel at the front bulkhead is about 3/4" while travel on the switch itself is about 3/8". When you guys did this, did you change the location of the switch to accomodate less travel or leave slop in the switch so that it is not activated until the brake rod has traveled some distance?

 

I dont know the particulars of the RF car at all but generally speaking a brake switch is usually off when pressed except if it has cruise control then you will have 2 circuits in a brake switch, 1 that contacts when the switch is pressed and the other when the switch is released. Assuming you only have 2 wires at your switch i would bet it breaks the contact when the switched is pressed, or in other words, you let go of the brake pedal, the switched gets pushed, no more circuit. Or i could be wrong and just wasted everyones time.

 

[David Morton]

I don't know if this is of any interest but Harley Davison stock an hydraulic switch which can be fitted anywhere you choose, and can go in either a flexible braided or rigid pipe.
Dave M

 

Eric - you are right on as far as I am concerned. A brake switch is "made" when the pedal is released and that is what breaks the electric circuit and turns off the brake lights. That is how the brake light switch on my Cobra works anyhow....

 

[David Morton]

imho
Normally closed (N/C) when pedal is operated (ie pushed) and Normally open (N/O)when released again. Cruise logic is reversed and cruise trips when pedal operates (N/O) but needs 'resume' or 'reset speed' or similar to regain.
Cruise and brake switches are or should be (normally) independant of each other for redundancy.
Dave M

 

[ChrisL]

I can confirm that the switch is "normally on".. ie. it should be pressed when the pedal is released, and released when the pedal is pressed. I've placed the multi-meter on the RF brake switch just to be sure.

Pat, you might also save yourself alot of heart-ache if you DIDN'T weld the tag. My solution was to fabricate an aluminium "L" bracket which I then clamped into the rod in the expected location with two small EFI hose clamps. That way it will give me some adjustability if I realise that I had incorrectly estimated the switch contact point or pedal movement.

 

[David Morton]

Switches: N/O means open circuit therefore not operating, and N/C means closed therefore the switch is made. I think we are talking the same thing. I'll go and lie down as its hot here. Enjoy.
Dave M

 

Guys, thanks a lot! I realize after reading these that I had the switch turned around with the pluger facing the seat. I'll spin it around which will then depress the plunger when the brake is released. Really appreciate that bit of information. Also, good thinking on the clamps as opposed to welding.

Many thanks.