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The temperature variation from side to side is way too much. Measuring the temperature of each pipe near the head will isolate any cylinder that's weak. Something's not right, either mixture-wise or even no ignition at all.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/light-bulbs/?gclid=CjwKCAiA66_xBRBhEiwAhrMuLeky1Nty9QISano2FpKgSFPByOJl0wx3L5fYgta0Y30jFPuCl_Ku6BoCFYUQAvD_BwE

If it has a bolt-on steering arm, a custom (shorter) one might be the simplest path.

If you are using the trans in its original (Ford GT) orientation, we recommend these modifications: http://www.erareplicas.com/gtman/transaxle/zf-mods.pdf

It shows OK for me in Foxit Reader. (Their viewer is in Beta, but it works.)

The biggest weakness (torsionally) that I see is through the area near the front of the side "pods". The structure needs something to tie the two pods together like a large transverse box well connected to the side structures.

Note that all those engines really have the same cylinders firing 90 degrees apart, just in a different sequence. If the tube lengths from the heads to the collector are equal, the same layout into the collector will work, no matter which engine.

Without some indication of what's happening in the vertical plane, it's impossible to properly evaluate either design.

You are assuming a single 5/8" master cylinder to operate both front and rear brakes. Typically, there are two masters on a balance bar system. The balance bar geometry decreases the force into each master cylinder by roughly 50%.

If the flasher has 3 wires, the center one goes to the dash light. If you are getting a signal from that, check the dash bulb and bulb socket ground.

I don't know how the later cars were outfitted, but the original cells looked like this...

Jack M was the second owner of 2057. The car was originally built (and finished) by Gary Emery from a relatively basic (although painted) kit. From the single picture of the finished car that I have, it looks like it had the correct pin-drive wheels. Jack did some updates (aluminum radiator...

Send me (eracars < at > gmail.com) a message on Monday and I'll check through the original invoice.

FWIW, the corresponding thread on a BMW slave is M10x1. We use an Earls 592042 adapter to get to a -4 hose.

I also build a baffle (on the inside of the cover) that prevents direct splash into the vent opening.

My drawings have the bottom of their gearbox at the same level as the bottom of the bell housing. The unit is very short, so I don't think ground clearance under the box is a big factor. Where I see a problem is the depth where typical chassis use a hoop underneath the box. In this case, there...

The original ZF has a very similar vertical offset: 3.1" according to my measurements.

Mine comes from a static analysis of the forces. Whatever force the caliper absorbs is translated into a torque (between the point of pressure of the pad on the rotor) and the axis of rotation (center-line of the wheel). That torque is balanced by the opposite reactions at the upper and lower...

There is no difference in braking/suspension forces. The caliper just creates a moment around the axle centerline.

I'm surprised you could come up with a M10 bolt in fine thread. The last holdouts for that were the Japanese, and I think they went to the European standard some time ago.