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Yes. I've been there many times to paddle/train/race. Won Masters OC1 (Nationals) there around '93. More stuff: www.youtube.com/ctcboater

On the ERA, not many places that don't require welding. You'd have to go all the way back to the area between the front lower A arm front mounts to add an anchor. If I absolutely had to tow, I'd run a long loop around the outer ends of the lower control arms.

That's correct, but on a V8 (with all the spark plugs removed), there's enough valve overlap and pulse reversion that opening the throttle probably won't have a significant effect. Interesting to test that effect though...

Assuming that your engine weighs 200kg, moving the engine forward 2" will only shift 4kg from the rear to the front. Your spacer might weigh that much. If you're obsessive about this, can you shift both the engine and transaxle as a unit? There's nothing magic about having the axle line...

The process (no guarantees, of course...) is described here: GT Manual supplements I had to make a new bearing puller (drawing in the link above), and that's not available for loan. Some here have said that they removed the bearing without special tools. You might consider subletting the...

Does anyone have one to loan out (or has the one that I loaned out which was never returned), please contact me. Thanks!

Although it will be extra work, consider going to a 20%-25% anti-freeze mixture during the summer. It will cool significantly better than your 50% mixture.

If you aren't running a vacuum advance distributor, you are putting maximum stress on the cooling system when it's idling or at low speed. Depending on your cooling fan, it's not surprising that it's running hot. On the other hand, if you are not boiling water out of the system, I'd grit my...

PM sent.

The ERA FIA production didn't deliver its first kit until 1995. The 427 chassis are from 001 to 999, the FIAs (and GTs) chassis numbers start at 2001.

I've also used fine steel wool to take the shine off of "Naugahyde" to make it look more like leather.

Maybe things are better on the other side of the Pond, but here in the USA most drivers are so incompetent that I welcome some automatization on the highway. As long as they stay in the right ("slow") lane.

Request a catalog from waytekwire.com. (Their web site ain't that great, but their prices and selections are.) The other alternative (way overkill) is digikey.com.

The spines of both driven discs must be in alignment. Without spines on the pilot shaft, you're depending on luck.

The ERA already has an integral roll bar. Not race legal, but strong enough for street safety.

Put something like that in Massachusettes or New York and let the carnage begin!

I believe that bolt retains one of the internal shift shafts (or something...). You need to put in a separate fill-level hole.

I use DesignCad for wiring diagrams. You can get an older 2D/3D (V22) version for less than USD $25 on EBay. It has symbols too, but I usually create my own.

It's probably not hard-coated. Not much you can do except polish the scratches away - but that is not easy, and very impermanent.

If there is no buckling (and assuming the same alloy), there is no strength (or longitudinal) stiffness difference between a round and square tube of equal weight. The main factor that comes with a real-world application is that round tubing is typically available in a stronger alloy, and for...