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BTW, I have since moved to a smaller motor (4L V8), moved my battery to the front and changed to 2 gauge. All is good - but this motor is much easier to spin than the LS7.

Running two wires parallel is fine (and not uncommon outside of cars). Two 4 gauge is equivalent to a single 1 gauge. Two 6 gauge is equivalent to a single 3 gauge. One 4 + One 6 is equivalent to a single 2 gauge.

I am looking to do all 4 wheels, so I am going to give using the GM sensors a shot. This from my ECU supplier: "GM's notes claim they are an active sensor and indicate the sensors receive power on pin 1 and put out a square wave signal on pin 2. Presumably, the sensor grounds through the body...

There are all aluminum versions that screw together. While I don't us an LS any more, these are the same fittings required for the GM Flex Fuel Sensor (which I do use). You can find these from a number of suppliers. I buy my AN fittings in bulk from China and have never had one of these leak...

Once again, eBay to the rescue. Here is a picture. So the sensor comes in from the side of the upright. I can probably work that out. And at $80-90 to have one in hand to check it out, it's not a big investment.

Here is the "best" diagram I have found. It's not terribly helpful.

Ken, I see your point. Anyone have a picture of the ABS setup in a C7 or a useful diagram?

Those studs look about the same length. On RockAuto, the ACDelco's are listed as: Anti Lock Braking System = Yes, Anti Lock Braking System Type=Encoder I took that to mean the "tone wheel" is in the hub (but not the sensor). From the limited diagrams I can find, it kind of looks like the...

I am looking to incorporate wheel speed sensors on all 4 corners (for traction control). It sounds like I might as well do the bearing upgrade at the same time and use the ABS rings in these newer hubs. Looking at the C6 ZR1 hubs, the front and back are the same hubs. Is there any reason not...

With an LS7 and 4 gauge wiring, the Bosch unit (which was purchased new), had a tough time. I upgraded the wiring to 00 and it would spin the motor no issues. 00 is probably overkill. If your battery is in back, 2 is probably OK. If it's in front, I expect you need 0 or 00. Be sure your...

I had a local shop build a long block. Nothing fancy, just rods/pistons/head & main studs/valve springs. Then a bit more than a week ago, I dropped a valve in that motor. Have a race next week, so I have dropped in a BONE STOCK 1UZ and turned down the boost. The built motor now needs at...

BTW, Hartley builds up those Toyota V12s. He will provide you a 950hp NA motor.

I switched to the Toyota because I blew 2 LS engines. Not down on the LS's, I just NEEDED a change.... It's also nice opening the tail and have *everybody* ask what that engine is. But driving the car with the LS-7 vs a Turbo DOHC 4L .... it's a night and day difference. Neither "better"...

Yes, RamLift Pro. I believe it's the 2.5" lift, but I would have to double check that. The longest spring you can use with the lift is 4". If you are running the car high, you could fit a 5" (but I don't think that is a common size). Also, you need to run helper springs (google...

Dan, I don't think it will fit. I have a 1UZ V8 and it's tight. I have 1/2" between the dry sump drive and the firewall. Without the dry sump the engine could go 1.5" forward. That would not be enough to fit the extra length. Moving the transaxle back farther is not an option.

Had the SLC out today. First time with the new drop gears. Before I’ve had an LS7 and LS1 in the car. Now I have a 1UZ with a large turbo. This motor is only 244cid so MUCH less torque than an LS. 1st is WONDERFUL! Before, I’d start in 2nd. In fact I generally shifted 2-4-6 and just used...

For less than that price, you can put in an ECU with built in traction control and the needed sensors. Then not have to worry about pump and interface into your brakes.

Mine is centered to the dash. My seat is located to with regards to head and shoulder room (not specifically centered on the wheel). Having put a lot of miles on a Viper, I can tell you the seat/wheel/pedals do NOT need to be centered to each other. You adapt quickly without thinking about...

I have 800F (2.25" x 4") and 900R (2.5" x 7"). I will probably go to 1000 rear at some time. I probably spend more time at high speed (>120) than most tracks allow. I'd think 800/1000 is about right for COTA, though I've not driven there. I run the CF rear wing and Street Splitter. Need to...

I thought they were from Vintage Air. Although both might be selling the same part! Standard Series Louver for 2.5-Inch Hose All Black Part #: 49353-VUL Price: $10.00 This all black through dash louver has a 2.5-inch duct hose inlet and a 2.70-inch bezel diameter...