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Paul Yes, measurements is what I'm after if you could. I have pictures in the usual reference books, showing the layout, but nothing to indicate exactly how far apart they should be. Cheers

Flat dash panel Hi Paul The DRB has a flat panel, with no raised, angled faces. Therefore I have fixed positions for Tacho and Speedo, but the rest, as they say, is a blank canvass so I can put anything anywhere. I just want to try to keep to the proper spacing for the gauges. Cheers

I don't recall seeing any measurements anywhere for how far apart to space the instruments. Anyone got any clues on what the spacings should be? I suppose centre to centre for Tacho to the two either side, centre to centre for the other batch of 3 instruments, and some sort of reference...

From one of those links I managed to find 5 pages of photos but nothing with much detail. From the sharp 'point' on the front of the front clip it looks like a CAV of some form. Here is page 2 of the 5 pages. Links to the other pages ia across the bottom of this one...

Maybe this helps? Here is a picture of the clutch/ flywheel assembled. Does it help?

Kenlowe Block Heater Wayne Have you seen this? http://www.kenlowe.com/pre-heaters/cars/diy.html

If anyone in UK wants to have a look at one of these uprights, I'll be bringing one along to the GTD trackday at Goodwood in August

If that is the car I think it is, looks like you've ended up with a good 'un. Fortunately my experience with Australia turned out well. But you are absolutely right about the characters. I am generally relatively self reliant, so some of the characters you mention I have not really had a very...

Or how about one of these. Remote internal and exterior buttons supplied. Cuts battery and alternator, with no long stretches of high amp cable to run. I think makes for much easier plumbing than the manual switches with remote pull cables...

Ian They look like Princess to me too. I had them on my previous car, along with those spacers to make them wider for the vented discs. Standard Princess pins weren't long enough, but I got some extra long split pins from a car show, which were perfect. I also seem to remember having to modify...

Ouch (mental note to self - avoid Mitcham) Assuming this is the same station which Paul used for his car, how come you got such an ar... such a stickler for his own made rules? Clearly 2/3 of 5300 is just over 3500, not 4000 so will you protest if he says the same next time and it is...

Same again her. Picked up from local post office this evening. Excellent on all counts. Thanks Ian and Ron.

Cheers Ross My tank has 3 inlets to match the pump (that is how I got it), so I think I will leave the scavenge end as it is. What you say makes sense to avoid the single pressure stage working overtime, while the scavenge is pumping lots of air. In my case though, I will put the filter and...

Thanks Richard. So thermostat and cooler go after the filter. That surprises me a little, but not an issue. Cheers Lee

Please can someone just refresh my memory on the correct plumbing for dry sump. From the tank, the line goes to the pump, before the filter, and then the engine, but where should a thermostat/ cooler go? I guess the filter should be the last thing before the engine. So the thermostat should go...

Good news Dave. What level of body chassis did you decide to go with in the end, and what rollcage?

Thanks very much Mike. So Metric High Tensile bolts it is, and I'll get some sleeves made up for the bearings just for good measure. Thanks Lee

Thanks Pete. Actually it would be the bearing which needs sleeving down to match the knuckle. Unless anyone comes back with something different, I think that is what I will do (but first I'll check the runout) Thanks again Lee

Thanks very much Peter, I'll do that. What about the holes on the GM bearings? Are they small to match the knuckle or are they still the large size? I still don't get what the marks on the knuckle are from. Perhaps it had a replacement bearing like this on previously? Can you or anyone...

Thanks Peter and Malc As you can see from the picture of the knuckle whatever was previously attached also had big holes, so I guess this is not something out of the ordinary. The bearing assembly is, I believe, now generic - you get the toothed wheel whether you need it or not. Because the...