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Be aware that the pump manufacturers are used to dealing with questions on cars that have the engine in the front, adjacent to the radiator.

See also discussion in this thread https://www.gt40s.com/threads/identifying-audi-016-gearbox-clutch.57303/#post-587386

Great work Chuck. To add a few notes from my experience I use a wood working band saw for cutting sheet. Works very well. Anything that can cut wood will cut aluminium. Deburr edges with files and a deburring tool. As Neil says a large belt sander is very useful, can use it to quickly...

Hi Jack, I have a shift housing , I am asking about just the silver mechanism at the bottom of the gearlever. I agree that the cable travel is the key issue. Just tell us how many mm of cable travel your mechanism gives for the longitudinal and transverse directions of gearlever movement and...

Hi Jack. I'm building a car with a Audi 500E AAZ 016 transaxle in a rear engine configuration. I would be interested in the price for the very nice looking gearlever mechanism only, I have cables and mounting brackets. Also do you have a neat solution for the transaxle end. I have mocked up the...

Another benefit of a kitchen remodel is that you can reuse the old kitchen cabinets as garage storage, possibly with new doors

Agree with Howard Berlow is my mass spread sheet for my space frame project. Its not yet quite complete, and already I am over 1850 pounds. Most Items are verified masses, others are estimated and their might still be some bits to add. Part Qty Mass kg Total pounds Spaceframe chassis...

Then put it back the right way up to see how it looks. The forward face of the seat back / firewall bulkhead is not yet finally fitted, pending resolution of the cockpit accommodation

Then I could-turn the chassis over and start working on the floor panels. The floor is 2 mm thickness, all the previously mentioned panels are 1.2 mm.

Got the internal side panels fully fitted

Got some paneling done. On the foremost bulkhead I made things difficult for myself by wanting to close off on the outside face of the chassis framework rather than on the inside. Instead of just one panel across the bulkhead it had to be in sections. All this to save 25 mm of possible pedal...

At some places I want to do an overlap joint so am experimenting with some makeshift tooling to make a panel thickness joggle.

In other news, I had previously bought bolts with suitable grip lengths to suit the suspension attachments. These needed to have the threaded length shortened. Once this was done I had them plated as part of a batch of sundry small parts and other fasteners. 10 kg (22 pounds) total. Back on...

I made these which work very well for me. I prefer the bottom of the chassis at just above knee height, makes working on anything above that very convenient without bending over .

In some places I am riveting 19 x 19 extruded angle to the chassis to give me a flange to secure to. I figured out a cheat to be able to set rivets at the bottom of a 19 mm U channel with the tooling I have. Just 4 off M4 nuts taped together to make a spacer.

Once I had finished cleaning out all the internal threads I could make a start on the aluminium panelling. Although this is a space frame chassis I want to panel the cockpit internal area so that it resembles a monocoque construction. I intended to fit the floor first but as I turned the chassis...

And finally the roll bar structure. I bolted in the support for the driver head rest just because it could finally be a part that stays on once and for all. First time I have used locking nuts on the project.

Various body mounting and other subframes

A view of the engine bay showing various brackets for such as handbrake cables, fuel tank and lines, brake lines etc . The small structure in the centre of the cockpit that supports the gearshift is slight offset from centre to give the driver more elbow room.

Took some record pictures of the complete chassis. Not shown are 2 diagonal bars that bolt into the front of the side sill structures