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Does anyone know the Ford or Motorcraft part number for the two pin stator as opposed to the three pin stator? I have twice now gotten the three pin stator cap, Ford part number F58Z-12A112-AA, Motorcraft part number DU-57. This is a three pin stator cap that does not mate to the Motec two pin...

And another picture. I need to read what I have typed before I send.

Fine fits fine, here's a couple of pictures.

I used Hershal's directions and went with Armando. Real nice pan (in my opinion) and the fit was perfect.

Not sure if I took a picture, but I'll look. I also took in the flywheel and they did a bit of balancing to it also.

Dan, the legs of the gearbox mount mate up fine, it's just that everything sits forward of the holes in the frame rail. Not sure why, but before I do any modifications I need to get the box back from my gearbox guru to double check everything. Hersh, thanks for the pictures, they help a lot.

going back to Hersh's comment about the engine mount, it sounds like you are describing a stop - you allow a certain amount of twist, but only so much. Kind of like a door stop to keep the doorknob from punching a hole in the wall? Regarding the gearbox, as my assembly sits about 3/4" to 1"...

Ron, I like your idea of eliminating the lower mount. I wasn't overly keen on the way the engine leaned forward; dropping the lower trans mount would solve that while still allowing the transmission to clear the crossbrace.

and second photo

I spoke with Robert last night (my time), and I think I have the gearbox mount configured correctly, but would like a second opinion. I suppose I should add that it is the Audi 016 3U box using all the supplied RF hardware. I think I will have to mill out some of the mounting holes as it looks...

Geez Ron, thanks for the accolades! I was just down on my hands and knees cleaning the oil and grease off my floor after engine assembly (I am not the neatest person in the world). Let's see if I can remember the questions. You can go down over other paint, but it is highly variable. A Ron...

All seems well, got it back from the shop on Friday, ground down nicely and zeroed. Mounted and almost ready to go (except I need diferent brackets, have to get my controller back, then install the engine, cross my fingers and hope it starts).

My engine guru is cutting down the balance using his crank stone, then balance it to zero then double check the flywheel. I think this will work out okay.

I had the crank zeroed to match the flywheel. I had a Ford racing damper that I had the machinist get to match the crank, I only realized a couple of days ago I needed the damper shown in the picture. I would rather not have to disassemble the engine - does anyone know if I can have the damper...

I thought I'd ask the question here since the flywheel is from RF. The damper is from Ford for a 96 302 using a crank trigger, as above, the flywheel from RF. To my untrained eye, the flywheel looks to be zero balanced. That is what my engine guru said also. Now the damper looks to be not...

I've looked at a couple of shifter boots and parking brake boots, but have not found a good shifter boot. Parking brake maybe. Anyone have any helpful hints?

vacation in northern Michigan. Nice, cool, not too cool, but much more pleasant than Houston in July.

The folks at the Annuals of Improbable Research have loads of stuff that makes good reading: http://www.improbable.com/airchives/paperair/volume1/v1i3/air-1-3-apples.html There are also some nice studies of whether or not Kansas is actually as flat as a pancake. Enjoy.

Re: Yellow Race Cars - I Got a Bunch of B&W Photos!? I'm with you Ron, the yellow with a bit of orange flavoring look much better. Print one of the pictures on quality photo paper and then take it to a paint store to get it matched. Paint it out on an aluminum panel and see if you like it...

I think that's a safe bet, but I could not verify that with my ohmeter.