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I recently bought a set of IDA's and the guy selling them said they were 30 years old, early Spanish ones, as you will see from the picture below they don't have made in Italy or Spain on them, just wondering what I have? (apart from the missing idle screws!)

Still Looking....

Thanks Doc but I have already spoken to this seller and unfortunatly the engine is already +40 and needs a re-bore.

Hi everyone, I am looking for a 289 block, max 0.030 over standard bore? Anything considered. Thanks, Brian Coombs.

Some people have way too much money! I can think of much better things to spend 41k on!

Thanks Ryan, Yes, I now have the dimensions for the (non wide body) brackets, and as you say the front and back are different. so I hope to get the time to machine these up in the next few weeks.

Finally got around to making my "Hartwell" latches from a SARMA donor, and my 3D printed Press button. I disassembled the Sarma latches, machined the ears off, turned up some new pins, fabricated the back plates and tack welded them together. I think they have come out quite well, and have so...

Hi Jason, I am not sure what the exact dimension should be, but the bearing is 50.8 and it needs to be a light push fit onto the axle so there is no play or fretting, so if you machine to exactly 50,8 you wont be far off.

Once you have removed the bearings I would recommend measuring the bearing locations on the axle. The ones I have are 50.76mm and they should be a minimum of 50.80 so about 0.040mm too small, and the bearings are loose, so they need some form of repair before thy can be used.

Mine are 5/8"

Hi Alan, I saw this for sale a few months ago, and I was a bit confused, as the long front wishbones are using the space where your legs go? is it going to have a central driving position?

Hi Clive, it looks very weak in bending have you done any FEA work, to look at other load cases? I assume you are not using the roof as a structural member?

Thanks for all your suggestions. I ended up with a bit of a compromise, as I had them made from an open die forging, using some existing tooling, and then machined to the final shape. I just need to machine them to suit my driveshaft tube and drill the holes for the doughnut bolts now.

I just use a big drill (if you are using 1/8" rivets I would suggest something around 10mm) and turn it by hand, Just remove the Burr, try not to countersink the hole. Best wear a glove or you end up with cut marks from the flutes in your fingers after a few hundred holes!

Love the welding,

Hi Neville B I would drill all the holes first, de-burr the holes to make sure the panels sit down flat on the chassis then apply the sealant and pop rivet.

Ah, Alan Staniforth! his sting computer has been used to design a lot of successful cars

I think the main issue is Jaguar have started making new C types, and these people in Sweden have also made 6 new C types, so both trying to sell their 250k cars to the small number of people who can afford them. Replicas have always been a grey area within the law, and always will be, I don't...

Sorry Skip, only just seen your post, I will keep you in mind next time. Thanks for replying.....

Thanks everybody for your suggestions, but I now have it sorted. Thanks again....