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I’m needing to make several items for the car, a CNC plasma cutter will definitely make life easier. The first items I plan to make will be the structure to hold the rear clamshell hood pins. I want to make it using dimple dies, so being able to cut circles will come in very handy. I found this...

Hi Devin I’m not sure if the brand that RCR uses. But they are replica BRMs 17x10 on the rear with Toyo Proxes R888 315/35R17 rubber and 17x8 on the front with Toyo Proxes R888 225/45 r17 rubber. I will likely go a lower profile on the front to solve a rubbing issue, but I haven’t gotten to...

Thanks Rob. I plan to do the body work. But I don’t think I have the paint job I want in me these days. I plan on having someone else paint it. I still have some research to do to find someone. sean

Made a new video. Found a fouled plug causing the backfire. Sounds much better now.

It’s the new low airflow design. Helps to warm the engine up on cold days.

I decided to fabricate a radiator shroud to help air flow while idling. This allows the fan blades to be positioned 1 1/4” off the radiator fins. I had originally planned to make some rubber flaps that could open at high speed to improve air flow while driving, but I think I will hold off for...

I decided to put the doors on hold a bit and play, it’s been a been a while since I started it. Exhaust pipes look pretty good. edited the link. I messed up on the video clips

Hopefully this helps? Its a generic Starter wiring diagram using an external relay.

I might be wrong on the name, for some reason I though that is what they called it. :oops: Below is the link for the discontinued beast. In hindsight, I think it would have been cheaper to buy it assembled VS building it myself. https://wwwqa.performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-Z427ART

One thing I would look at are the components used for the crate engine builds VS the HP they are advertising. Several of those guys use Re-manufactured blocks. The factory 302W blocks are good for lower HP builds, but they have a tendency to split down the oil galley if you get close to 500HP. I...

Thanks Randy, I was debating on trying 1 long bolt as well. I was thinking it would beef the feel of the door up even more. I was also thinking this would allow me to install tubing inside the door at the hinge point. I could then tie that into the anti intrusion system I plan to add to the...

Couple more pictures showing the doors.

I decided to add bushings to the door hinges as seen in Randy’s build. I went with the bushings when I noticed a lot of slack in the hinge system. The bushings tightened everything up and makes for a smooth opening door. These doors are going to require quite a bit of patience to make fit...

hi Rob I bought some 45 deg mandrel bends from performance tube bending. They are 16 gauge (.065”). I cut them to the length needed and welded them out. Sean

Got the fuel filler lines made. I decided to make them from 2” ss tubing.

Thank you Josh, I just ordered 25' of it and will let you guys know how it works. Sean

Thanks Chris, very good advice. Does anyone have suggestions on what to use for weatherstripping for the doors and rear clam shell? RCRs manual's links don't work for what to use here. Thanks in advance, Sean

Next I moved on to the door hinges. All the body lines line up pretty good. The only exception is the bottom of the door towards the front angles up. Not a big deal to fix though. The only thing I have clearanced is the front of the door next to the hinge. It was about 1/2” longer than it...

Things are starting to move quickly now that the body’s fitment is dailed in. Once I mounted the spider. I got the fuel fillers mounted. They mount almost 1” off from side to side. This is due to they are not symmetrical on the front clip.