Sorry, my question was worded wrong. I was wondering if the ball that attaches to the strut was standard so I can mount it. I ordered a generic set of ball mounts off Amazon...and they seem to work perfectly!
Sean S.
Supporter
Hi Trevor,
I purchased some 10MM balls for the joints. I think there are a couple sizes of these ball joints to pick from, but I'm pretty sure 10MM is the most common.
Link below
Regards,
Sean
I purchased some 10MM balls for the joints. I think there are a couple sizes of these ball joints to pick from, but I'm pretty sure 10MM is the most common.
Link below
Regards,
Sean
Sean S.
Supporter
Still working on body fitment, things are starting to get close. I haven’t sanded any of the gaps yet, all the lines are looking pretty close. A little more tweaking to the nose and I think I’ll be able to fasten the spider to the chassis.
I swapped the windshield wiper provision to the drivers side. Also started the lights cutouts. It’s starting to look like an actual car now.
I swapped the windshield wiper provision to the drivers side. Also started the lights cutouts. It’s starting to look like an actual car now.
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Looking good Sean!
Make sure you get the rear suspension dialed in with a pretty fair alignment and have the suspension set to ride height. I do this by having the car on jack stands or dolly, disconnect the coil-over shocks and then jack up and support the suspension with jack stands or 2x4 lumber. The lower control arms need to be level to the ground.
once you have that done, you can center the rear wheel arches over the wheels/tires and establish your rear clip mounting position - then work your way forward.
I wrote another post about this in the body forum..
A number of people have done it differently - some got lucky - some did not. Some were very disappointed.
Make sure you get the rear suspension dialed in with a pretty fair alignment and have the suspension set to ride height. I do this by having the car on jack stands or dolly, disconnect the coil-over shocks and then jack up and support the suspension with jack stands or 2x4 lumber. The lower control arms need to be level to the ground.
once you have that done, you can center the rear wheel arches over the wheels/tires and establish your rear clip mounting position - then work your way forward.
I wrote another post about this in the body forum..
A number of people have done it differently - some got lucky - some did not. Some were very disappointed.
Sean S.
Supporter
Thanks Randy.
I did put a lot of time into both the front and back suspension alignment. Fran suggested the same to me before getting started on the body, he said to make sure suspension was right and then match the wheel wells to the tires to make it look right. I do suggest getting an electronic alignment tool for this. I got one from longacre racing. It’s a lot easier than levels and squares to dail it in, especially with a suspension as adjustable as this one.
I started by getting the rear clamshell centered and adjusted to match the wheels. I then moved to the front leaving the spider floating. The front took a lot of attention, I think mainly because of the flip nose. But it is finally dailed in now. The front of the nose at the radiator opening will need a bit of work as it isn’t straight where the lips on the opening roll back. It gives it the appearance that it is on crooked. Took me a bit to find it wasn’t straight there. I believe I am going to have to take a little off of the inner fender to clear the front tires when steering. I thought about lower profile tires, but I’m not sure I would like how they would look. I am still trying to figure out options here. If anyone has seen the same tire rub issues, please let me know what you did to correct it.
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With the stock (from RCR) 205-60-15 tires on front, it was close to the sill lip when turning. I changed tires to 225-50-15 and had to trim a very small amount from the sill when I turned the wheel. What size wheels and tires are you using?
Sean S.
Supporter
I have 225/45 zr17 on the front and 315/35 zr17 on the rear.
Presuming that the front suspension is at ride height (lower control arms level to ground) and interference occurs only when turning, you may need to trim the inner lip down on the front clip as well as the sil….
Sean S.
Supporter
Things are starting to move quickly now that the body’s fitment is dailed in. Once I mounted the spider. I got the fuel fillers mounted. They mount almost 1” off from side to side. This is due to they are not symmetrical on the front clip.
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Sean S.
Supporter
Next I moved on to the door hinges. All the body lines line up pretty good. The only exception is the bottom of the door towards the front angles up. Not a big deal to fix though.
The only thing I have clearanced is the front of the door next to the hinge. It was about 1/2” longer than it needed to be.
the door hinges need spacers made to ensure the pivot of the hinge was centered in the door. The driver side required a 1/4” hinge and the passenger side required 1/2”
The only thing I have clearanced is the front of the door next to the hinge. It was about 1/2” longer than it needed to be.
the door hinges need spacers made to ensure the pivot of the hinge was centered in the door. The driver side required a 1/4” hinge and the passenger side required 1/2”
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Got to love body and panel fitment. By far my least enjoyable task. Fiberglass adds another layer of lovely. Looking good though. Keep at it.
Sean S.
Supporter
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Sean,
Make sure you install your door seals (weatherstripping) before finalizing your panel gaps. It will alter how things fit together and it's a job that I'm sure you'd rather only do once.
Chris
Make sure you install your door seals (weatherstripping) before finalizing your panel gaps. It will alter how things fit together and it's a job that I'm sure you'd rather only do once.
Chris
Sean S.
Supporter
Thanks Chris, very good advice.
Does anyone have suggestions on what to use for weatherstripping for the doors and rear clam shell? RCRs manual's links don't work for what to use here.
Thanks in advance,
Sean
Sean,
I have post 227 in Chuck and Ryan's build bookmarked for when we get to the weatherstripping on our build. He goes over their trials of different weatherstripping in that post. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/chuck-and-ryans-rcr-build.22083/post-226191
Josh
Sean S.
Supporter
Thank you Josh,
I just ordered 25' of it and will let you guys know how it works.
Sean
Hey Sean, What wall thickness did you use on your fuel filler pipe? I'm getting ready to do the same on my GT-R. Debating wether I weld of bend the pipe. Looks like you may have done both. Loooking great by the way. Love the progress.
Sean S.
Supporter
hi Rob
I bought some 45 deg mandrel bends from performance tube bending. They are 16 gauge (.065”). I cut them to the length needed and welded them out.
Sean
