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Joel, I forgot about the pictures but here they are. I put one layer of 5mm thick tape on the coolant tube then filled the cavities between the tube and body with clay and smoothed it. From below I temporarely glue a piece of 3mm plexi from the extended floor panel to meet with the body then a...

Joel, that close out panel you have to fabricate will extend all the way to the extended floor panel. That is if you fab it to cover the bottom as well. To answer your question, yes I’m happy with the union position, it’s accessible from below, just remove the close out panel before. I’ll try to...

Yes I know it’s more accurate, but the last three motors I’ve assembled the stretch has been dead on with the same torque on all rods. Just have to figure out the torque numbers if the manufacturer doesn’t include it in the instructions. It might help that I always use the same ARP assembly lub...

The doors are very stable if you strengthen the body and door the way I did and it looks clean. The way Cam did it the stuts are more accessible.

Being Covid-bored I decided to build my 416", I've had the parts for a year and now was a goood time to start. After weight matching rods and pistons a buddy of mine balanced the rotating assy and also honed the block to 4.070". I made two alu plunges to make solid lifters out of two hydrualic...

Joel, you can see it in my thread post #96

Joel, as Dan points out you pretty much have to open up the cup holder to get to the upper strut joint, the lower you can get to without an extra panel.(even if it’s difficult). I also would suggest to move the upper strut joint on the hinge, I think I moved mine approximatly 20mm, that way the...

Joel, I run a -4AN from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank, it makes it very easy to bleed the system if you have to drain it.(I already done it twice). When I refill the system I just disconnect the bleed lines from the tank (both radiator and engine steam vents) and use my vacuum...

Looks very professional Stephan. Just make sure the connection between the 4 pipes and the collector is sealed/tight, or you will have false readings from the O2 sensors.

Joel, lookes very good, but would definetly add a support to the lower bracket. I don’t know the weight of the whole assembly but at least 10lb with water included. That will put a lot of stress on the upper mount, no matter how you attach it to the beam.

Thanks Ken, I’ll check that.

Yes Ken, it would. That LSswap guy seems to be a clever fellow when it comes to electronics. I’ll order a PWM module, that way I have a spare alternator. Thanks Ken.

A couple of not so good things needed modification. First the brakes are very squeeky. The company that makes the shim going between the brake pads and pistons are actually just 5min from my house and I know the guys working there, so about a year ago I got a big stack of those shims. I’ve sent...

Thanks Joel

Took the SL-C for the first cruise night downtown and took the opportunity on the freeway back home to do a couple of high speed passes. I let off at 240km/h and did some high speed braking, very stable on the road and the brakes are very good as well. At very hard brake application the front...

Lookes fansastic Ken.

I have this one. Drove it to low pressure warning the other week and fuel pressure kept at 58psi. I set the warning to come on at 8% remaining IIRC. https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/phantom-340-stealth-fuel-system/

Yes that makes more sense, but I would say 7/8” front, 3/4” for rear and clutch even better. I think the GT-R and SL-C has the same weight ratio and total weight so it should be the same set up.

It’s a good day today. My SL-C passed the last and final inspection with flying colors. Thursday before Easter I was up in northern Sweden an did the build inspection, they check pretty much everything, chassi welds, brake retardation, noice, emission to name a few. All good. And today I made...

Thanks Ken, did you figure out the exact boltpattern of them? Just so I can compare with my measurements.