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it's an interesting study in exclusivity/cost. Was this engine used because of exclusivity, or because they wanted the last .5 percent performance gain from reduced engine weight? Or both, more likely.

Following up on this thread, I'm due to change out my OAT fluid. Is there any real benefit to using Evans, aside from the service life? I may have read somewhere that cars with long coolant runs like ours are more apt to cavitate at the water pump and boil fluid in the heads. On the other...

that's a nice set up. The virtue of that hard foam is that it is not going to move around, so bonding the fabric is relatively easy. I may elect just to cover the entire sheet of Confor foam with cloth, drop it into place, and deal with the folding of fabric that happens when forced into...

^ jeez that sounds terrible. Do you know if this is a one in a million phenom, or is it something I should look at eliminating from my rear brake plumbing?

You can build it any way you like, and drive it in any conditions you like with the following caveats - 1) it will be noisy, EV will help 2) it will be drafty as hell in the cold 3) it probably won't be 100% weatherproof 4) all season tires or not, any whiff of snow/precip in the cold...

Sizes offered are great, for me at least! Finally, a rear tire with enough diameter to fill the wheel well on my car, without going to a 40TW compound! Looking forward to seeing some reviews of these.

Gents, I am trying to get my seats sorted out. They are fiberglass race buckets that currently have no padding. I bought some 1" blue Confor foam which I think will do the trick of increasing comfort. Question is how to cover it and with what, and how to secure it to the shells. Is bonding...

that's a nice set-up. I like the fact that the upright is sprung, rather than the suspension links. Would be neat to do the same on the front, and massage the upright pick-up point to provide some jacking when uprights are turned, the way they do it on F1 cars.

^ how did you figure out the chassis pick up points?

personal preference, but on my T70 spider I'm at 3.75 front, 4.5 rear. And I think I'm going to add 1/8th on the front just for a little insurance. On a side note, have you duplicated the Corvette inner mounting points for the suspension? It's always a little weird to me how the upper A arms...

if memory serves, that particular GDT70 has about 700 hp. And it weighs about 2000 lbs.

of course it can be done - road and track. T70 spiders don't have much overhang at the front end, so they are less likely to catch on road bumps, driveway openings etc. If there's a proper windscreen in place, the buffeting is manageable. But it's still an open top car with big wheels and big...

You might try looking into "Lizard Skin", they make a variety of coatings, though i have no direct experience with them.

it's pretty simple - street cars don't need to be 100% optimized for down force and drag, and can carry unrestricted horsepower to make up for any inefficiencies. So you put in more radiator than physics dictates, taking into account less than 100% efficient cooling. Add a thermostat and...

if I remember correctly, the exits of those ducts is just ahead of the front wheel wells, aft of the "front corners". As such, I would expect them to be in a high velocity/low pressure area, so the exits wouldn't need any extra help/features. Contrast that with stock SLC, which exits right at...

Got my first Pfizer shot last week. Slightly sore shoulder and elbow next day, as well as feeling not quite 100%. Fine the day after. Saw an older gentleman pass out in his chair during the 15 minute waiting period, he came to and they took him to another room for further examination. Didn't...

maybe that's coming in the future, but active noise cancellation takes power and mass, things which racers don't want to deal with. It might be productive to do a spectral analysis of the exhaust sound to see if there is one particular frequency that is problematic. In which case, a helmholtz...

other point of advice is that the engine should not run synthetic in the first instance. It should run dino oil to allow piston rings to wear in properly, promoting good ring seal. After break in, synthetic can be used.

Ron's comment makes sense. If it's right shift, you get a clean path to the shift rod on the transaxle, the result will be super positive if built with good parts and thoughtful installation. If not right shift, you'll need to get the shift rod info from Quaife. Once you have the throws...

I'd look at oil pressure while on track to determine which viscosity. My engine had cold idle of 90 psi, I dropped from 10W40 to 5W40, cold idle now about 80 psi, hot idle about 65-70. Builder recommends 15W50 for racing. That's with a LS motor.