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Something like this. Left is standard straight opening curve. Right is an slow to aggresive opening curve.

This should be easily achived with an wire setup that gets closer to the centre of the pivot the closer it is turned to wot. Seen solutions like that before, even as original on lots of cars. And it would also be easy go replace if the feel isnt exactly right

Very informative Terry, thanks. Hmm, so according to the article i should choose 48mm when looking at displacement, but 42-45 when looking at power output.

The air that comes thru the front always needs to be forced thru the radiator, and all other escaperoutes need to be eliminated for the cold intake air. That is one of the most important aspects of cooling the car. A great radiator won't cool any good if the air isn't forced thru it.

Hi, i'm trying to get my head wrapped around how to calculate a good size on the ITB's i want to install for my future 347 stroker (Ford smallblock stroked) Aim is 600+BHP N/A tuned. I want a fast responding throttle, and therefore i don't want to oversize so the respons feels slow. I have seen...

Do you have the article number for the correct intake casting?

I must say that this is really inspiring, what is the estimated cost of the completed ITB's? Might even consider changing my approach for Retro looking EFI to ITB if it is a cost efficient way to save money and poor in some extra time and effort to build myself (like you did)

You will be sad to know that the backrest is not attached properly (only glued to the foam) and will be loose within a year... (Own experience, you sadly get what you pay for here)

Oh yeah, and another measure that would help alot would be how far apart the mounting surface sheets are. (i have guessed 1460mm on the outer side where the doorhinges mount onto)

Hi Shaun, i hope you don't mind helping a fellow builder out (doing from scratch, but using SGT hinges and body) i would REALLY appreciate help with the measurements i have marked with red in your image, is it possible for you to measure them for me? (Metric measures please) A and B measures...

Thanks for the quick answers. i'll go on your advice Jimmymac, and make a wooden frame. But i'll screw it up into the sealing. See attached principle. roofplates with welded in jointnuts that will work as anchors in the roof. Then i will weld a nut onto an threaded rod and that rod will...

I need advice on how to store the bodyshell. More specific the front and rear clips. They are currently resting on the chassi, but since i lack the extra space in my garage to simply just put them on a empty space on the floor, i need some more creative solutions. Apparently hanging them on...

Been a long time now since i last posted here. I'm trying to get the rear suspension together on paper before i manufacture it. What i can't figure out is how to handle the type of suspension. Should i see the trailingarms as an extension of the wishbones and thereby make them equal length...

As topic, what colorcode is the Ford GT720 mirage in orange? The color would really make a GT40 replica for me :) Seen CAV version in orange too that i think is the same color. Any insight here?

Hi there, I'm looking for drawings on engine adapterplate, flywheel and centerbearing holder to mate a smallblock ford engine with audi 01e gearbox. I know there are several suppliers out there as well. But i want to be able to make it myself with the help of tested drawings that work...

Started testing DS mechanical and Fusion 360 yesterday, i must say that fusion does make the most sence so far, but i need to learn 3D CADing better before i judge them :)

Tried Designspark Mechenical yesterday, it was somewhat easy to understand and use, but i didn't feel like it was strong enough. I will do a trial period with solidworks i believe, and probably end up using that system instead. (Want to run spaceclaim, but it is sooooo expensive!)

Hi, i'm about to start my project soon and want to be a step ahead and get started with the design of the frame and suspensionparts asap. This means i'm looking into what programs are the easiest to draw tubular frames in and also engine parts and suspension parts. Best i found so far that...

as you can see in my budget i didn't spend 25k£ in the driveline for example. that's because it's easier to register a selfbuilt car in Sweden with a modest amount of power. The engine will likely get the "power" treatment in form of heads and headers when the car is completed. Thus expanding...

XE.com says 1GBP = 11,5129 SEK. TSC price is 39995 + VAT and shipping and paint and glue. 39995*1,2(VAT)*11,5129=552550 SEK +30-40000 SEK for paint and 1600 SEK for glue and maybe 10000 SEK for shipping. that is close to 600´000 SEK with my math atleast, or am i thinking it wrong?