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you don't need to secure the flex line like that - it's meant to wiggle around

Cooling should be easy - fill remote tank, let it get up to temperature (e.g., fans on). let it cool down, fill back up. rinse and repeat 3 or 4 times and you should be good (i.e., coolant level stable). The remote fill tank needs to be located above the engine. Engine air bleed ports and...

even though they're not getting much love in this thread for some reason i've been using weatherpaks for over 10yrs in all of my builds and have never had any issues with them, either in terms of assembly or service/cycle life.

there's a pre-programmed wire in the master cell specifically for 4-way flash function. run that wire to a switch, ground the other end of switch (or run a black master cell wire to it) and done (assuming front/rear turn signal lights have been hooked up).

If you sell something like an SLC online expect to get raped unless youre willing to hold out for the right buyer.

It looks like Graham got wet (isn't my story exciting, haha!)

I must see the pictures!!! I sent you my email address - email them to me and i'll upload them for you

details Graham, we need details! save your photos from your iphone to you computer, and then upload them to this site ('manage attachments' below when you create a post; depending on what file size and dimensions they come out of your phone as you may need to resize to make sure it's below the...

I was curious if you can screw -3 into 3/16 IF .... you can without any resistance. You can also screw it into 1/8'' NPT w/o any resistance

1 - yes 2 - if somebody pays air freight I'll totally show up!

step 1 - install V8 step 2 - dominate race :idea:

do you have the original tune? if so you might want to compare the dbw tables (e.g., pedal position vs throttle opening) to see if they were changed. if they were, the ecu may be damaged i was initially going to play with mine because there is a dead spot in the thorttle for the first 10%...

in theory the catch can seemed like a great idea :) I was a bit concerned that if any fluid ever blew out it'd spew everywhere (since the oem fitting is now essentially elevated a foot), so 1'' in front of the fitting i zip tied a 1'' piece of cut open heater hose and pointed it down the side...

you need to make sure you're using the same TB that the ECU is programmed for - either silver (older LS) or gold (newer LS). did you start having problems after a dyno tune? If so it's possible your tuner could have played with the DBW tables inadvertently ... those are usually flagged with...

Found a problem with the catch can idea - there's nowhere for me to put it that doesn't form a p-trap with the hose, or have the catch can hanging very low on the car (bottom of catch can around bottom of transaxle ... I'd be worried about some manometer effect I didn't think of and somehow...

unfortunately some of us arn't brave enough to poke holes in our transaxle :stunned: I'll have to settle for next best alternative - -6 hose that goes up, then down to a vented can.

that would have it poisitioned right at the clutch & headers ... not ideal if it decides to burp fluid :/ i don't think there's anything wrong with my current plan - run a -6 line straight up and then down into a vented catch can? now that I see it's the flipped r&p slgining fluid that's...

it's definitely not o-ring. CMS told me m14x1.5 ... I screwed one in and it went in properly, so I'm pretty sure that's the right size. yes, that's the vent fitting. my r&p was flipped

I pulled out the oem vent today ... kinda disappointing - I thought it was going to be some fancy setup with a ball valve or whatever and it's just a piece of pipe that necks down to a smaller size and then a straight shoot out the rear. not ball valve or anything

Apparently it's M14x1.5 tapered.