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When fabricating headers it comes down to what tube you can source. And bend, if you have faciltites to do that. If you can't bend then you have to cut and weld pre bent elbows. I would use 1.2 mm wall thickness. It's the default in the food industry. .

Hi Jochen Would a South African registered car work for you?. Quite a few SA cars are going to the UK. This looks to be a nice one. Divide SA price by 20 to get to Euro (before shipping) https://www.autotrader.co.za/car-for-sale/ford/gt40/gt40/27642886?vf=1&db=1&s360=0&so=1&pl=0&pr=5&po=1&pq=0

See also Lola T70 Lounge section

I think you will need more effort at the front to balance the brake front to rear ratio by using a smaller cylinder on the front circuit

Good to see the progress Christo With regard to making rear uprights using Audi hubs you can see what I did in this post https://www.gt40s.com/threads/canamsa-sa-stratch-build.19604/post-452747 Its post number 494 It was a real pain to get the bearing fit right, if I did it again I would...

This turned out to be quite a bit of a fiddle to get right, but eventually I was happy with the result, although I haven’t taken the protective film off yet!

I then used the straps over an aluminum strongback to push the skin against the ribs at each rivet point, working from the top down. At the front and rear ends the rivets are spaced at 20 mm over the whole length of the rib flanges. On the 4 intermediate ribs on each side I started the rivets...

The skins were prepared with a folded flange at the top and the rivet holes drilled to meet the flanges of the ribs. Lacking access to a slip roller long enough to roll the curve into the skins in one operation we resorted to putting some shape into the skins by bending them on a bench with...

The rear end of the pod is closed by a single panel, to which we added some stiffing detail. The top row of rivets is countersunk as they will be overhung by a flange on the removable top panel. The front end of the pods have to have multi-piece closing panels, as the major part of them needs...

Hi all, hope everyone had a good festive season and best wishes for the new year. The next step was to panel the outer skins of the side pods. Very early on in the project I has tested the torsional rigidity of the mock up chassis both with and without riveted on side pods and that exercise...

It appears you have significantly shortened the brake pedal lever arm length. I fear that you will then find the pedal effort unacceptably high. This may be able to be addressed by fitting smaller bore cylinders but then you may run into trouble with the pedal travel.

Regarding the exhaust support bracket and springs, do you have any Karting activity near you? Karts use brackets and springs that are perfect for the task and can be bought off the shelf from karting equipment / parts suppliers

The weight is related to the thickness you choose / fabricator is happy to work with. For comparison sake use density of ally of 2.73, stainless steel 8.0. Ally 2 mm x 2.73 = 5.46 comparison factor Ally 3 mm x 2.73 = 8.19 comparison factor SS 1.2 mm mm x 8 = 9.6 comparison factor SS 1.6...

And the final effect. I intend to eventually have some closed cell foam pads sewn into covers that will fit into the seats and be retained with press studs around the edges. I could also make an expanding foam seat insert for the driver.

So now I had a center tunnel that contains the gearshift mechanism and the handbrake lever. I wanted a handbrake as my 7 does not have one at all and that’s a pain sometimes. The rear of this tunnel is open to the engine compartment. To close off the top of it I made a pressing that goes...

You might have noticed no pictures so far showing clecos. I finally broke down and ordered some, should have done so much earlier, they definitely make fitting up much easier.

So I completed all this detail, but then when I first sat in the seats I found that I had made a fundamental mistake by putting the upper bolsters alongside your torso perpendicular to the rear bulkhead. Any significant sideways inertia would force your ribs against the edges and injure them...

I mocked up where I wanted to put the seat side bolsters in MDF. I had put the seat belt mounting points 410 mm apart, and I decided I wanted the side bolsters 380 mm apart. This is a comparable size to a traditional 7 which I fit into well. Meant I had to make a recess to get the seatbelts...

It’s been a while, I’ve been having a “riveting” time doing the cockpit internal paneling. I found some scrap polyurethane foam to insulate the rear bulkhead, this had to be shaved down to 19 mm thickness so it fitted nicely between the diagonal tube members before I fitted the front panel of...