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At some places I want to do an overlap joint so am experimenting with some makeshift tooling to make a panel thickness joggle.

In other news, I had previously bought bolts with suitable grip lengths to suit the suspension attachments. These needed to have the threaded length shortened. Once this was done I had them plated as part of a batch of sundry small parts and other fasteners. 10 kg (22 pounds) total. Back on...

I made these which work very well for me. I prefer the bottom of the chassis at just above knee height, makes working on anything above that very convenient without bending over .

In some places I am riveting 19 x 19 extruded angle to the chassis to give me a flange to secure to. I figured out a cheat to be able to set rivets at the bottom of a 19 mm U channel with the tooling I have. Just 4 off M4 nuts taped together to make a spacer.

Once I had finished cleaning out all the internal threads I could make a start on the aluminium panelling. Although this is a space frame chassis I want to panel the cockpit internal area so that it resembles a monocoque construction. I intended to fit the floor first but as I turned the chassis...

And finally the roll bar structure. I bolted in the support for the driver head rest just because it could finally be a part that stays on once and for all. First time I have used locking nuts on the project.

Various body mounting and other subframes

A view of the engine bay showing various brackets for such as handbrake cables, fuel tank and lines, brake lines etc . The small structure in the centre of the cockpit that supports the gearshift is slight offset from centre to give the driver more elbow room.

Took some record pictures of the complete chassis. Not shown are 2 diagonal bars that bolt into the front of the side sill structures

Very exciting weekend for me! Got the chassis and subframes back from paint and I am very happy with it. The colour is Basalt grey RAL 7012. Before painting the main chassis and rear section weighed about 119 kg (260 pounds), the zinc rich primer and polyurethane top coat added about 2 kg (4.5...

The garage looks so empty with the chassis gone. I disassembled the build table the chassis has stood on for so long and used some of the material to make a pair of chassis trestles

Brian has managed to invert the pics for me. Thanks for that. Neil, the parts are painted immediately, I just happened to be nearby at that stage. The small parts are being done first

Trying again. Detail of a blasted section

I'm trying to post pictures directly from my phone for the first time and I don't know why the pics are showing upside down

Quite a significant milestone for me now. I have stripped the car again and fully welded all the various brackets added during the dummy build. Once that was done I cut bits of threaded rod to plug all the inserts and weld nuts on the chassis and delivered it to a blasting and painting facility.

Hi There, great choice of car. I have been down a similar road, if you have not yet seen it your might find some of my experience a help, see thread below https://www.gt40s.com/threads/canamsa-sa-stratch-build.19604/ I also offer this advice to anyone doing a scratch build: Starting out...

Lovely result, very well done! I also loved the JPS scheme when I was a kid

You only looking for a tiny bit. I would put a block on a convenient surface and put a long lever under the collector and try bend the assembly up a slight amount. The headers might move fairly easily, particularly if you do it while they are good and hot after a run

Thanks for the kind comments Guys

I have now 99 percent completed the dry build, the wiring is mostly laid in and the dash mocked up (real one still to be cut in one piece ). I splashed out on a set of Stack gauges. Last week I had all 4 wheels on for the first time ever and I weighed the car as it stands now (excluding chassis...