I think you might mean @Randy Folsom ….
So from your measurements, you should have .850 from the end of the crank to the face of the balancer hub as installed..
Mark - it sounds like perhaps you still have some varnish on the contacts. I recall having to use very fine emery cloth on them along with contact cleaner. I just can’t recall the exact electrical function of the switch in circuit…
Speaking from experience - skip the AMP gauge and find a suitable Voltmeter. There are some that look very much like the original Amp gauge, but I couldn’t tell you where to find them right-off..
Are they all the way up against the front edge of the alloy chassis? I couldn’t tell from your photos. My tires rubbed those sill covers when turning them, so that’s how I found out.
My sill covers needed to be shifted all the way rearward to start the body alignment process over again - once I had the front end rough-aligned. The positive caster shifts the spindle rearward a little ways.
I think I’d probably weld up the holes that the upper brackets are bolted to and drill new holes about 1/4” further rearward. Perhaps find some heim joints with thinner balls?
Lynn - I moved your initial build thread from Introductions to the Lola lounge. I am not able to combine the various threads you have started - please don’t start new threads with info that’s applicable to your build.
Thanks..
RCR40 I built had something like 5.5° positive caster with the lower control arms shimmed all the way forward and the upper control arms shimmed all the way rearward.