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Anyone got any information on this car? can't believe it has an original VIN number. https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/145185/ford-gt-40-1964-restoration-from-new

Thanks Bob, I will check the syncro gaps when it is apart, I come from a motorsport background, so are used to dog rings, but have done very little with syncro rings, so this is a bit of a voyage of discovery!

Yes, Thanks Rick, I know all the changes needed, I was just wondering if there was anything specific to check while it is apart.

Hi Guys, I have just taken the cover plate of a Pantera (dash2) ZF gearbox I bought in an auction a few years ago and I was pleasantly surprised that the crown wheel and pinion look almost brand new. Am I right in thinking, if it has been lock wired, then it's been re built in the past? Also I...

I put some spreader plates between the bolts and the wood so the bolts wouldn't crush the plywood.

Hi David, This is how I did mine, The bolts to align all the parts with the hole in the flat panel, then bolted them up tight it worked quite well so used the same method on all the other parts like this.

Don;t think they would have been made in the USA as they were in the UK, but you never know?

Hi JP, I have 2 holes.

I recently bought a set of IDA's and the guy selling them said they were 30 years old, early Spanish ones, as you will see from the picture below they don't have made in Italy or Spain on them, just wondering what I have? (apart from the missing idle screws!)

Still Looking....

Thanks Doc but I have already spoken to this seller and unfortunatly the engine is already +40 and needs a re-bore.

Hi everyone, I am looking for a 289 block, max 0.030 over standard bore? Anything considered. Thanks, Brian Coombs.

Hi David, Peter Barnes contacted me as you are after some dimensions? I am away with work at the moment but will be able to have a measure when I get back home in a couple of weeks, can you PM me your email address as it's easier than going through GT40's.com

Some people have way too much money! I can think of much better things to spend 41k on!

Thanks Ryan, Yes, I now have the dimensions for the (non wide body) brackets, and as you say the front and back are different. so I hope to get the time to machine these up in the next few weeks.

Finally got around to making my "Hartwell" latches from a SARMA donor, and my 3D printed Press button. I disassembled the Sarma latches, machined the ears off, turned up some new pins, fabricated the back plates and tack welded them together. I think they have come out quite well, and have so...

Hi Jason, I am not sure what the exact dimension should be, but the bearing is 50.8 and it needs to be a light push fit onto the axle so there is no play or fretting, so if you machine to exactly 50,8 you wont be far off.

Once you have removed the bearings I would recommend measuring the bearing locations on the axle. The ones I have are 50.76mm and they should be a minimum of 50.80 so about 0.040mm too small, and the bearings are loose, so they need some form of repair before thy can be used.

Mine are 5/8"

Hi Alan, I saw this for sale a few months ago, and I was a bit confused, as the long front wishbones are using the space where your legs go? is it going to have a central driving position?