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If you don't mind me asking what's the cost of the parts (panels, subframes etc.) for the conversion?

Manual steering and I work out! My ERA is a wide body with 10.5" wide front tires, so the caster helps with the tendency to tramline, but does create for heavier steering effort at parking lot speeds. My wide body Pantera was the same with stock 3.5 degrees caster which I increased to 7.5...

I took my specs from the ERA manual and they have worked well, it drove like a pig when I first got the car and I spent a lot of time dialing it in and also replaced the shocks on all 4 corners with heavier springs. Front: Caster +6 deg. +/- 0.5 deg.; Camber 0 deg. +/- 0.25 deg., Toe-in 0.5 deg...

Why not use the speedo drive in the ZF? It can be hooked up to a mechanical cable or to an electronic sensor if you desire. It would also be fairly easy to mount a Hall effect speed sensor and reluctor wheel on the axle to get speed.

There's a pair of uncut 14.0/27.0-15 rears on eBay

If it is in 2 gears then you have an internal issue.

I got mine from Roger, they will hand cut a historic tread pattern into them.

Normally it's the 'reverse' that one can't get it into reverse and that is due to the back up light switch being screwed too far into the housing. Can you select gears manually with the linkage removed at the ZF?

I'd like to buy the 2 sets of wheel spring clips please, PM sent.

ERA use an original 6 pin drive hub

The ERA build manual has instructions on the minimum you need to do to and where to drill oil drain holes to flip it, however I believe RBT and Ron McCall go further than that when they convert for use in the GT40 orientation.

Why would you like to use it, do you have a specific overheating problem? Evans has a bad reputation with aluminum as it deposits out, plus it's flammable! If you don't need freeze protection water & water wetter or 'no rosion' have the highest specific heat capacity.

I have a ZF mated perfectly to a Ford block without cutting, dremeling or any other kluges or bodging. Sorry to be so blunt, but the root cause is Safir's bellhousing looks to be a total piece of crap.

Does the Quaife use the same as the ZF? Here's the CNC web site CNC Performance Parts

On a Pantera, but I'm using K&N filters on IDA Webers to keep the dust out.

Thinking about it as long as the spacer incorporates the starter mounting (similar to the block plate) then you'll be okay. What's the thickness of that plate, you could potentially double up or get a thicker one.

The crank end position had crossed my mind previously, I had an engine builder screw up on thrust washers once, that was a very short lived engine.... You definitely don't want the ZF input shaft inducing any thrust on the crank. Perhaps you could mate the bellhousing to the engine and mount...

BaT stay arms length from the transaction and generally do not intervene in disputes between buyer and seller. There are numerous complaints out there across almost all car platforms if one searches. As often as there are undisclosed issues by sellers, there are also unscrupulous buyers, with...

Something doesn't look right with the mounted flywheel, it's stood off the backing plate a long way and the center doesn't look to be located on the crank deep enough?

Some rebuilders use cheaper bronze synchro rings and if your clutch isn't getting full disengagement it can lead to higher synchro wear, 2nd is the weakest. I have not had any issues with rebuilt ZF's, my long distance driver Pantera one rebuilt 17 years ago.