And so it begins...the AP build.

[joe]

I’m pleased with how this turned out. Once it gets trimmed down evenly, it will cover the frame rail underneath.

 

[joe]

Final trim isn’t done yet, but much better than before….since it will be visible when the rear clam is lifted.

 

[Devin]

Hard to tell from a variety of kits and me working with an “original” splash mold that needs some modification for my scratch build, but did/do your sill panels have a slight curve to them or are they pretty much straight from end to end along the top edge? One of mine looks to be straighter than the other so not sure what should be the goal.

Anyone with access to or have knowledge of this? In the end I’ll probably make it “look right” but helps me make some better decisions for panel & door alignment and bodywork when making all these things work together in a scratch build.

 

[joe]

Correct, at least this side curves in at the rear tire end (I'll have to check the front tire end). I noticed this when I was trying to mark it to cut off the excess epoxy. I realized that the area over the frame will need to be straight, but the outside top of the rocker isn't.

 

[joe]

Rear curves in about 3/8”…front appears straight.

 

[Devin]

Rear curves in about 3/8”…front appears straight.View attachment 137029View attachment 137030View attachment 137031

Thanks Joe for such a detailed response! Now I have some measurements to go by. It will also save me the embarrassment of getting caught at the reunion with a measuring tape sizing up someone’s car LOL!

 

[joe]

Refitting the rockers…the underside of the lip will need to be worked down a little since it is now fatter than shipped due to the extra epoxy and 1708 layer. The alignment pins now sit below the top of the rocker. The receiver on the clam now dictates the panel gap.
I came up with a simple way of mounting the quick releases for the top of the clam. The Allstar mounts will be trimmed and welded to the roll bar. The push buttkieil eventually be painted body color to make them less noticeable.
The tire to clam gap is set even front to back and side to side. This then dictates where the rear of the rocker needs to land. Not too pleased with where the lower front of each rocker meets the frame. I need to come up with an inner fender anyway. This area will somehow be covered up and incorporated into the front of each rocker.

 

[joe]

Body shop jail of a different kind. Final fitment and gapping of the interior close out panels for the 66 fastback to accommodate the mini tubs. I used photos of a $400,000 GT350R that sold on Bring a Trailer. Factory gaps were terrible! It was good practice using the West System epoxy and filler to extend and fill gaps. There will be plenty of that on the GT40. The goal is to have bodywork done on it by fall and get the motor ordered….mechanical mock up this winter.

 

[joe]

The rear seat delete was far from perfect, but only 1 coat of Raptor Liner made it look perfectly smooth! I think I’ll be using this stuff on the inner clams after nocking down the high points in the glass to make everything look more presentable when they are open.