Ballast Resistor

On Friday, I went to three different auto parts store looking for a ballast resistor. At the first store, they had no idea what I was asking for (they asked if it went between the wheels). They then called over an older guy, he knew what I was looking for, but they didn't have one listed in their computer inventory for a '67 Mustang with a 289 (I figure it was easier to ask for a Mustang than explain what I really was looking for). At the second store, the first guy I spoke to didn't know what I was looking for. The older guy at the counter told him to look in the computer under Air Conditioning. Even after I explained what part of the car it belonged to, he couldn't find one in his computer. The next place I went to, the guy new what I was looking for, but it wasn't in their inventory either. I would have gone to the local NAPA store (I bet the would know what I was looking for) but they closed a half hour earlier than their website said).

Can anyone suggest what to part I'd need for a 289 with a Pertronix electronic ignition hiding inside the distributor?
 
Ben,

For the V8 with a 1.5 ohm coil[ recommended ] Pertronix info say's to remove the resistor.

Does your 67 still have the resistance type wire incorporated in the wiring loom from the firewall to the coil as opposed to a dedicated resistor?

Jac Mac
 
jac mac said:
Ben,

For the V8 with a 1.5 ohm coil[ recommended ] Pertronix info say's to remove the resistor.

Does your 67 still have the resistance type wire incorporated in the wiring loom from the firewall to the coil as opposed to a dedicated resistor?

Jac Mac
I should check what the coil is. The ballast resistor is in small can.
 
Ben
If you do use a resistor, make sure there is a bypass circuit on "crank", usually supplied by the solenoid. Most coils with points like to operate around 9VDC, which the resistor accomplishes, but while cranking this can drop to 6 volts, and cause some really hard, if not impossible, starting. Usually there is an accesory terminal on the solenoid that goes hot on crank, supplying direct voltage, which is dropped from the starter load, this also goes directly to your coil, as soon as you release the starter it goes thru the normal circuit with the resistor. I would suggest that you put a voltmeter on the coil feed and check the voltage to see if that resistor is built into the wiring as Jac Mac suggested.
Cheers
Phil
 
God,
This brings back memories. back in 72 I purchsaed a Mercury Montego GT fastback with a 351 Cleveland in it. After driving the car for a couple of years I had the motor blueprinted, balanced and the heads ported and polished by Baldwin Automotive in Long Island New York. I also installed a Holly 750 with a MSD electronic ignition. Some of you may remmber Baldwin, along with Motion Performance these guys were the hot builders on the East Cost.

Anyway the car ran very strong but would die at random times for no reason that I could find. Several trips back to Baldwin could not identify the problem. Finally when on a trip to Florida the car died and would not restart, it was towed to a Mercury dealer who discovered that Bladwin had installed a resister in the distribuiter when one was already in the wiring harness. They corrected the problem and the car ran great for years after.

I wish I had that car today, Sorry for the detour but your question brought up good memories.

Peter
 
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