Edelbrock pro-flo
- Thread starter simonjrwinter
- Start date
Chris Kouba
Supporter
I've had the Pro Flo2 on my build since day one and that version is ~20 years old at this point. I will say I love it- or actually, loved it. It was great until something happened which I haven't been able to troubleshoot.
Due to the issue, I may not be the greatest reference point, but the car ran great (FMS 302 longblock w/350h/350tq) and was extremely streetable. Cold start is fantastic, idles great, runs out to whatever redline your hardware will tolerate... I even got ~21 MPG on a 4 day, 1000 mile trip through Oregon and California.
The other interesting thing is they use a number of OE parts. I replaced a voltage amplifier- it was a late 90's Vortec SBC unit, not a specialty piece from Edelbrock. I believe this is the same for their injectors, MAP and other sensors, etc.... There are a couple proprietary ones still though.
I have tried to fix mine a handful of times, with a casual amount of effort but without success. Edelbrock's tech support's recommendation was to upgrade to the new system. I didn't want to jump off that $2k bridge without investigating first, but I have had other irons in the fire, and it does run so I've used it sparingly. The issue is that once the engine bay heat soaks, there is something with the ignition which causes it to stutter and stress the alternator. I have a feeling it is something simple because it runs like a champ right up to that point, and it doesn't always do it. I also don't want to spend $2k and have it not actually be an EFI system issue.
With all that said, I really do like it and would do it again. I am a fan of this EFI. I hope that helps.
Due to the issue, I may not be the greatest reference point, but the car ran great (FMS 302 longblock w/350h/350tq) and was extremely streetable. Cold start is fantastic, idles great, runs out to whatever redline your hardware will tolerate... I even got ~21 MPG on a 4 day, 1000 mile trip through Oregon and California.
The other interesting thing is they use a number of OE parts. I replaced a voltage amplifier- it was a late 90's Vortec SBC unit, not a specialty piece from Edelbrock. I believe this is the same for their injectors, MAP and other sensors, etc.... There are a couple proprietary ones still though.
I have tried to fix mine a handful of times, with a casual amount of effort but without success. Edelbrock's tech support's recommendation was to upgrade to the new system. I didn't want to jump off that $2k bridge without investigating first, but I have had other irons in the fire, and it does run so I've used it sparingly. The issue is that once the engine bay heat soaks, there is something with the ignition which causes it to stutter and stress the alternator. I have a feeling it is something simple because it runs like a champ right up to that point, and it doesn't always do it. I also don't want to spend $2k and have it not actually be an EFI system issue.
With all that said, I really do like it and would do it again. I am a fan of this EFI. I hope that helps.
I sounds like heat soak of the injectors, not the ignition.
Do a google search on heat soak injectors.
Injectors have a impendance, rated in Ohm.
When injectors get heat soak, their resistance (Ohm) change signifantly reducing their opening times drasticly resulting in a lean mixture.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
There were afternoon ignitions for MGB’s in the 80’s that after age there was a diode inside that the wire would fracture. When the unit got hot it expanded and quit running. When it cooled down, it would make contact and run again. Made me crazy trying to track the issue.
Howard Jones
Supporter
EXACTLY! I had a mustang ignition control box that did the same thing. I fought that car for months because it would never fail when I had it where I could troubleshoot it. After testing and then trying just about every electronic part on the car by swapping it out it I finally took the control box to work ($$$$$$ so I didn't want to just buy another one when it worked most of the time), cut it open with a Dremel took, removed the circuit board, and soaked it in a bath of the stuff we used to clear the potting compound off electronics. Then I started checking components in a cold and then hot condition and it was a glass signal diode that cracked in two. It worked cold and opened up when hot. I ended up replacing the box because I had so drastically molested it. But I just had to know what was wrong with the f'in thing.
The next time you drive it, take a can of freeze spray with you, and when it fails give the box a squirt.
skygeek.com
The next time you drive it, take a can of freeze spray with you, and when it fails give the box a squirt.
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Neil
Supporter
Howard,
In the '70s when I started work for Burr-Brown we still made some discrete products that were potted in epoxy. Very early in R & D we learned that epoxy cure shrinkage, as well as thermal expansion & contraction, created stress on the embedded devices. The problem was solved by dipping the whole PCB in a low-viscosity silicone RTV. This created a soft conformal coating on everything and this coating provided a cushion to protect the parts from stresswithin the epoxy potting compound. Not doing this protective measure is a mark of poor quality assembly.
In the '70s when I started work for Burr-Brown we still made some discrete products that were potted in epoxy. Very early in R & D we learned that epoxy cure shrinkage, as well as thermal expansion & contraction, created stress on the embedded devices. The problem was solved by dipping the whole PCB in a low-viscosity silicone RTV. This created a soft conformal coating on everything and this coating provided a cushion to protect the parts from stresswithin the epoxy potting compound. Not doing this protective measure is a mark of poor quality assembly.
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Simon- sorry for the thread drift......
The ECU is in the cockpit, and I can confirm there is very little temp fluctuation. I have also swapped the ECU with a spare, which didn't solve the issue. After the derby car is done and we've done a trip or three in the camper, I will get back on this. I will look for other components for which this scenario may be applicable.
Thanks gents.
The ECU is in the cockpit, and I can confirm there is very little temp fluctuation. I have also swapped the ECU with a spare, which didn't solve the issue. After the derby car is done and we've done a trip or three in the camper, I will get back on this. I will look for other components for which this scenario may be applicable.
Thanks gents.
Dave Collins
Supporter
Simon I have a Pro Flo 2 on my car. When we tried to map using the standard Edelbrock ECU we found we could not meet the emission requirements for IVA in 2012. We thus upgraded to run the Pro Flo hardware with an Omex 710 ECU which solved the challenges.
Not sure how this experience relates to the latest iteration of the Pro Flo system.
Dave
Not sure how this experience relates to the latest iteration of the Pro Flo system.
Dave
