I think I know the procedure for moving the pedal assembly as I have seen a number of posts on the subject, however, I still have one question. There are four bosses on the bottom of the bracket and one at the top. Presently the two bolts at the bottom use the two front bosses. Is there any reason the two rear bosses cannot be used, provided the pedals are now where they I want them? They would be much easier to reach since they are much more accessible and open.
Relocating the SPF pedal assembly
- Thread starter DB Clutch
- Start date
Hi Bart, could you post a few photos of the pedal assembly showing the bosses.
id bolt it in using the top and the bottom bolt holes you're talking about and give it a test. obviously stationary test at first and then a couple whilst driving somewhere safe. Check all bolts for tightness.
If you are using a bolt hole and position that you have not used before, is could also be worth counting the number of turns you achieve on the fastener before it becomes snug. You need to confirm that you have 1 to 2 threads past full thread engagement when tight to ensure that you have adequate binding of the thread to prevent it coming loose in operation. Use of quality machine washers and a thread lock compound in this instance would also be a belt and braces approach.
I have not checked the drawings, but is it possible to line the are the bolt holes front and rear up at the same time? or are they staggered to allow a fine adjustment of the pedal length position. It may be such that the PCD / spacing of the chassis holes don't line up on all points front to back at the same time. I wonder if an extra set of top holes/mounts on the pedal casting could not be added to further provide discrete adjustments.
If done correctly you can get less than a bolt widths movement using this method.
Ryan
If you are using a bolt hole and position that you have not used before, is could also be worth counting the number of turns you achieve on the fastener before it becomes snug. You need to confirm that you have 1 to 2 threads past full thread engagement when tight to ensure that you have adequate binding of the thread to prevent it coming loose in operation. Use of quality machine washers and a thread lock compound in this instance would also be a belt and braces approach.
I have not checked the drawings, but is it possible to line the are the bolt holes front and rear up at the same time? or are they staggered to allow a fine adjustment of the pedal length position. It may be such that the PCD / spacing of the chassis holes don't line up on all points front to back at the same time. I wonder if an extra set of top holes/mounts on the pedal casting could not be added to further provide discrete adjustments.
If done correctly you can get less than a bolt widths movement using this method.
Ryan
This is the pedal assembly. You can see both rear bolt bosses clearly. The front right bolt boss is visible, still held down by the bolt. It is virtually impossible to get a picture of the front left bolt boss as it is almost totally obscured.
Superformance must have had a reason for the four bolt bosses because the original cars only had two where your two bolts are now, with two at the top.
My thought was that the pedal assembly is something off the shelf, maybe Wilwood since they use their brakes, so that it came with a number of fastening locations for a variety of applications. I don’t see that it should make any difference which two locations are used, just as long as it is secure.
I'm sure Superformance fabricates the pedal box in house, it resembles the original. Maybe when moved all the way forward the two most rear bosses are used and the top bolt location lengthened to allow more adjustability over original cars
This shows the Gelscoe pedal box/casting.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Bart
There is no reason why you cannot use the four lower bolts nor the two accessible ones but I would try it first.
In the video below our James shows that he is using the four bolts and recommends using a socket extension to get in there.
I assume that Superformance have removed the upper left bolt section of their pedal box fabrication to get the steering column into their LHD cars. Hence only a single top bolt arrangement.
Give my regards to Big Sky. I fished the Gallatin and Gibbon often times years ago.
There is no reason why you cannot use the four lower bolts nor the two accessible ones but I would try it first.
In the video below our James shows that he is using the four bolts and recommends using a socket extension to get in there.
I assume that Superformance have removed the upper left bolt section of their pedal box fabrication to get the steering column into their LHD cars. Hence only a single top bolt arrangement.
Give my regards to Big Sky. I fished the Gallatin and Gibbon often times years ago.
Last edited:
James Carty
Supporter
Glad one of my videos has some usefulness.
Watched the video several times before I thought about moving the pedals, however, I wanted to do it from the footwell rather than take off the front clip. I live alone in a somewhat rural area, so getting someone over to remove and reinstall the front clip is not always easy. And the video didn’t address my question regarding use of the rearward bosses. But it did show me that it is not a difficult procedure.
Looks like James's SPF uses four bolts on the bottom.
