Removing the roll pins in the ZF cross shaft
- Thread starter Bill D
- Start date
Pat Buckley
GT40s Supporter
Have you tried a hammer and a drift?
specific tool with a centering ball on the tip
in a pinch you can take a nail of the correct diameter and grind the point flat
assuming you're replacing the roll pin because it's not strong enough...
If there's no clearance for bolt heads/nuts, you can strengthen a roll pin by taking a smaller diameter roll pin that fits inside the diameter of the existing roll pin and driving it into the center, in effect a double roll pin.
So Bill: is the problem that the shaft is in but you don't have the shaft to case bearings and the inner nylon bushings in ...so you need to remove the shaft to properly assemble?
If so justr remove as advised above and reassemble with same pins ...You will be OK
Steve
If so justr remove as advised above and reassemble with same pins ...You will be OK
Steve
should have guessed you were talking about your throw-out shaft.
in this application a bolt is probably not the best. A roll pin is used because it has a tighter fit than a bolt. Unless you got lucky a bolt will have at least some clearance. Clearance means movement between pieces, which means impact force (hammering) which means it gets looser with time.
One thing to look out for with split type roll pins. For optimum strength the split gap should be aligned in the direction of force and not across the line of force. So with a TO bearing you should be aligned front to rear of the vehicle. This is so the force has less leverage to close the gap and cause looseness.
Roll pins are easier than bolts to remove, as far as you've come with your project I'm surprised you're letting a roll pin get you flustered
Last edited by a moderator:
roll pins are the most economical way to have a no-play joint between a shaft and other pieces. They are usually the weakest link, whether or not that's by design I do not know.
