It's longitudinally mounted hence the use of the Porsche or Audi transaxel.
Superlite GTA
- Thread starter karlo
- Start date
It's longitudinally mounted hence the use of the Porsche or Audi transaxel.
None of the VW/Audi or the LS engine options are transverse. The transverse arrangement went the way of the dodo bird when the Mitsubishi drivetrain plan was scrapped
Fran was already using the VW Audi driveline in the Nemisis and IIRC it was also in the exoskeleton car they used to have on the Superlite site.
power brakes and steering
Does anyone know the intended steering option. Rack-n-pinion is fine. power steering would require extra plumbing from front to rear unless went electric pump.
same question for brakes. electric power brake pumps are available. tilton and wilwood make decent master cylinders for standard brakes. would need bias control though.
Does anyone know the intended steering option. Rack-n-pinion is fine. power steering would require extra plumbing from front to rear unless went electric pump.
same question for brakes. electric power brake pumps are available. tilton and wilwood make decent master cylinders for standard brakes. would need bias control though.
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Intended use is the standard Corvette steering rack
Factory Corvette brakes and the original Mitsu booster can be utilized or full manual brakes if one prefers...bias can be done with proportioning valve as the OEMs do.
Factory Corvette brakes and the original Mitsu booster can be utilized or full manual brakes if one prefers...bias can be done with proportioning valve as the OEMs do.
Speaking of suspension, I just bought a C5 donor for my build (not ordered) a blind auction bid on a crashed phoenix car. Just got it home this weekend. In worse shape then I thought (figures). Haven't dissambled much to know the shape of things yet, but for sure drivers side tie rod end snapped. Not a good sign. Guess I'll be adding a bump steer kit and hoping the rest is fine.
Anybody have experience crashing their corvettes and determining what's usable?
Coilovers are used in the kit
Anybody have experience crashing their corvettes and determining what's usable?
Coilovers are used in the kit
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Scott, I was once told by a fellow who specialized in buying, repairing and reselling damaged Vette’s; that he would often buy a front or rear collision Corvette sight unseen (pictures only); however, he would never purchase a side collision Vette without personally inspecting it for frame damage.<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>Take that for what it’s worth. Good lock!<o
></o>Jim<o
></o>Ha...well that's good news mine's both front and back. Figured the rear driver side suspension might be bad. Engine does not appear to be damaged. Hindsight I would've waited longer for something not as damaged. Then again I would've likely been replacing with poly bushings and possibly tie rods anyway.
2004 CHEVROLET CORVETTE - Copart
That's what I figured I was just thinking it was going to be an LS4 option since I checked last. Things have changed a ton since I last looked.
The demand for the Apex has shifted away from my original intent with the car which was an entry level 4 cylinder package. At least 75% of the enquiries are for V8 with a transaxle...this really does defeat the lower cost entry level car but as I have now spent the time and effort to redesign and rebuild the whole chassis I guess consumer demand wins out and V8 seems to be the norm...
Yeah sounds like people wanting a mid engine car that looks/feels more streetable than the slc. Did it change the body/subframe length?
The SLC is VERY streetable....
The Apex is actually wider than the SLC by almost 4 inches , yet its only 1 inch shorter wheelbase.
Apex has 1 inch more ground clearance.
No changes to the Apex body dimensions needed for the V8.
The Apex is actually wider than the SLC by almost 4 inches , yet its only 1 inch shorter wheelbase.
Apex has 1 inch more ground clearance.
No changes to the Apex body dimensions needed for the V8.
Go to the Copart Q&A section and look around, you will find a listing of states that don't require a dealer license. I'm in CA (requires license) and the car I bought was in AZ (no requirement). So I took a bit of a road trip to pick mine up.
To help you out as well, there is an option in the car search filters that you can eliminate all cars that require a license. Beware of those fees and taxes, they add up and quickly make the car you're purchasing over priced!! You can go to a broker site that shows the copart auctions as well. You will pay about an extra $500 for this service but can buy those other cars that require a license.
I paid $4500 for my donor but ultimately was not as good of a deal as I hoped. On driver side Front tie rod snapped and Rear A arm destroyed. these are the things you can't see from Pictures on out of state cars you can't visit. You can pay someone to look over the cars as well.
Ultimately I wish I had bought crate due to the work of a teardown/partout, but with accessories and ECU you are easily in 10k range which is nearly twice the cost. My decision was based on a) keeping cost's down b) Not tearing down or rebuilding an engine (yet) and just getting a car running.
Is it time for some more pics of the other "completed" APEX yet. Honestly, I can't picture there rearend and stance since there haven't been many pictures from that angle. Video even better.
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I, for one, would be more interested in the Apex with a V6, particularly a newer honda (like from a wrecked accord). This would be my first build and do not have a large budget nor do have specialized machine shop tools. I feel the Honda parts are more readily available thus cheaper. I have looked into Passat wrecks or salvaged title and they are not a common as the Accords...just thinking out loud. Has anyone also give Honda V6 any consideration?
Depending chassis set up it also gives the builder more room to work. I also have the option to easily add on a turbo which also have several manufacturers that make turbos for this engine.
I know there will be donor car requirement, but to what extent will the builder need to cut and weld on additional support frame? This also means a higher cost to the builder with a lower budget as well.
Will there be a rolling chassis option like the SLC?
Depending chassis set up it also gives the builder more room to work. I also have the option to easily add on a turbo which also have several manufacturers that make turbos for this engine.
I know there will be donor car requirement, but to what extent will the builder need to cut and weld on additional support frame? This also means a higher cost to the builder with a lower budget as well.
Will there be a rolling chassis option like the SLC?
This has been mentioned in the thread (though I realize it's quite large now), all APEX kits involve cutting. None as created by Fran require welding. If you're planning on doing an Accord motor this WILL involve fabrication so if you're trying to do low budget/low fab, that would not be a good choice. Stick with what the car was intended for (unless you're up for the challenge). Slightly a moot point though since I'm no Honda expert but pretty sure they are transversely mounted. Not to mention what transaxle to use....I just wouldn't even go there.
The VR6 is arguably a better engine anyway. It was transverse as well but has a history of being installed longitudinally and mates with the kits intended transaxle. It's not as commonly found granted. The 2.7tt is also a great V6 choice.
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I had been researching the engine options for a while. Prior to making the V8 decision, I was going with the VR6. I had seen a few and still see some in the $750 range with around 80k miles. A standalone harness/cpu isnt expensive. Bolt it up to a VW trany and good to go. You can easily get 350 to 400hp with a turbo setup. I know guys getting 700hp with little effort from a VR6.
The only reason I am going V8 is because I am not a turbo guy and dont want to deal with all that plumbing.
The only reason I am going V8 is because I am not a turbo guy and dont want to deal with all that plumbing.
Just an FWI for those looking at donor cars at salvage auctions.
A car that is said to "run and drive" or "lot drive" means that the car was able to move under it's own power around the parking lot. It DOES NOT mean you'll be able to fly in and drive it home. It may be running on one cylinder, smoking, puking coolant/tranny fluid etc. 75% of the time we have to jump start the ones we think may actually move to put them in certain positions on our 7 and 9 car trailers.
I am an automobile transporter and have been hauling salvage cars to exporters on and off for the last 3 years. We are currently moving roughly 2500 salvage cars to the port a year. Just got in from a nice trip, 3 trucks took 23 cars from Copart and IAAI to the port and brought 23 brand new cars out of the port to the dealers.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen a taxi or a buddy drop someone off at an auction expecting to drive one of these cars off and not be able too after the forklift driver brings it to them.
You can NOT repair these cars on premises. A jump start, air up a tire, rip off plastic part that's hanging by a thread is about all you can do.
There are some really good deals to be had but just be careful.
A car that is said to "run and drive" or "lot drive" means that the car was able to move under it's own power around the parking lot. It DOES NOT mean you'll be able to fly in and drive it home. It may be running on one cylinder, smoking, puking coolant/tranny fluid etc. 75% of the time we have to jump start the ones we think may actually move to put them in certain positions on our 7 and 9 car trailers.
I am an automobile transporter and have been hauling salvage cars to exporters on and off for the last 3 years. We are currently moving roughly 2500 salvage cars to the port a year. Just got in from a nice trip, 3 trucks took 23 cars from Copart and IAAI to the port and brought 23 brand new cars out of the port to the dealers.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen a taxi or a buddy drop someone off at an auction expecting to drive one of these cars off and not be able too after the forklift driver brings it to them.
You can NOT repair these cars on premises. A jump start, air up a tire, rip off plastic part that's hanging by a thread is about all you can do.
There are some really good deals to be had but just be careful.
Yep...there's a reason the insurance company declared them a total loss or that an individual is trying to sell by auction. Still...deals to be had. Just to be clear, I would not recommend looking for the eclipse by auction. Auction/lot fee's alone are roughly what you should be paying for that car. Here you should be looking for some kid that tore apart his turbo car as a project, can't finish and now just wants it gone. $600 for the car...sell the bare block and heads alone net $300. Plenty of those around on craigslist (beware of back registration fees on these). Or just a Non-turbo car (will part out for less).
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