Damn cars. You'd think the manufacturer would keep spares for a few years, wouldn't you?
Dalton
Dalton
1966 GT40 Road Car
- Thread starter wbmusarra
- Start date
Jimmy Mac,
Take a look at the pics which he sent me. I would have gone into the wiper itself if I had been there. Going on his description of what is gone. Also need the wiper button. I recall seeing one on a British web site I believe. Don't bookmark all of them. Maybe Jimmy or sone other Isle member will be able to spot one. The knob has a hole about 1/8" in the side and uses some sort of spring mechanism to hold it in place??? The marks on the top are H N P for high normal and park I presume. I'll get him to open it up and take some measurements. If it matches anything you have, would appreciate the parts. We can trace most with a multi meter, but a schematic would be a wonderful thing. I am just glad these things didn't come with a lot of options!!!
Bill
Take a look at the pics which he sent me. I would have gone into the wiper itself if I had been there. Going on his description of what is gone. Also need the wiper button. I recall seeing one on a British web site I believe. Don't bookmark all of them. Maybe Jimmy or sone other Isle member will be able to spot one. The knob has a hole about 1/8" in the side and uses some sort of spring mechanism to hold it in place??? The marks on the top are H N P for high normal and park I presume. I'll get him to open it up and take some measurements. If it matches anything you have, would appreciate the parts. We can trace most with a multi meter, but a schematic would be a wonderful thing. I am just glad these things didn't come with a lot of options!!!
Bill
Attachments
Bill, great thread and sorry to say I just now found it. I'm kind of building a road car so these pictures are really interesting to me. I love the 66 Mustang seat material. Not sure why but many of the pictures no longer show up (maybe to big), if there is anything I could do to help fix this issue please let me know. If you send them to me I'll resize and upload them. Again great pictures and story.
Went back to do some work on the Road Car this last weekend. The weather turned nice and got up into the low 70s. The owner ran in to a problem with his e-brake and needed some assistance. It seems that when the e-brake is pulled it pulls on the brake pedal. 'When released it falls back to its regular position. Whe he pulls on the handle lately the cable binds and the housing jumps out of the adjuster on both ends and the resulting binding causes the brake to not release. Trying to fix the problem himself ran into a comedy of errors, which are funny now, but weren't when it occurred. He attempted to climb down in the car into the footwell to try and release the cable. He did, but then was unable to extract himself from the position he had gotten into. It took a little while before some college boys were cutting through his drive(which connected to a second homeowners drive), and heard his call for help.
So I came over to help him out. Not willing to go through his contortions to fix to the cable, I chose the path through the front clip via the heater. Since I installed it that way, I figured it was the best way to get to the problem.
Once removed and rotated out of the way, the cable was exposed and the problem was obvious. The cable has to have slack in it for the brake pedal to operate at all. This is a rather poor design because with the curves it has to go through to reach the pedal box, it allows the housing of the cable to shift out of its adjuster which causes it to bind and not release. The adjuster nuts were not enough to hold the housing in its seat due to the curves it went through. The lower cable housing mount is directly under the steering shaft and it puts the bend in the cable at a radius that is tight for the cable and causes the housing to come out of its resting place. Thus when it falls out(when pulled), it in effect tightens up the cable, and it pulls the brake pedal down and locks the brakes. The ideal solution would be to make a cable clamp that would tie into the e-brake shaft brace holding the housing in place. Since I didn't have a welder handy to fab one up, we had to use the McGiver approach and work with things that were at hand. The lower cable housing could be put back into its seat. Once the upper housing was secure, it(the lower housing) would stay in place. What we came up with was using zip ties. They were put on the housing to secure the ones that would be used to draw it up tight to the brace. Then more were added to keep them from riding up and over the tie that was being used to do the pulling. Sounds more complicated than it was, so here is the picture of what we did. It looks a little jerry rigged, but it holds the housing firmly against the adjuster, and the cable rides smoothly in its housing and releases the brake pedal without incident.
The ties were all trimmed when we had confirmation that it worked. It is a little over done, but we didn't want to go back there anytime soon. It took about 5 hours to pull everything apart, fix it , and then put it all back together. We were gong to take it out on the road, but it was getting late.
Bill
So I came over to help him out. Not willing to go through his contortions to fix to the cable, I chose the path through the front clip via the heater. Since I installed it that way, I figured it was the best way to get to the problem.
Once removed and rotated out of the way, the cable was exposed and the problem was obvious. The cable has to have slack in it for the brake pedal to operate at all. This is a rather poor design because with the curves it has to go through to reach the pedal box, it allows the housing of the cable to shift out of its adjuster which causes it to bind and not release. The adjuster nuts were not enough to hold the housing in its seat due to the curves it went through. The lower cable housing mount is directly under the steering shaft and it puts the bend in the cable at a radius that is tight for the cable and causes the housing to come out of its resting place. Thus when it falls out(when pulled), it in effect tightens up the cable, and it pulls the brake pedal down and locks the brakes. The ideal solution would be to make a cable clamp that would tie into the e-brake shaft brace holding the housing in place. Since I didn't have a welder handy to fab one up, we had to use the McGiver approach and work with things that were at hand. The lower cable housing could be put back into its seat. Once the upper housing was secure, it(the lower housing) would stay in place. What we came up with was using zip ties. They were put on the housing to secure the ones that would be used to draw it up tight to the brace. Then more were added to keep them from riding up and over the tie that was being used to do the pulling. Sounds more complicated than it was, so here is the picture of what we did. It looks a little jerry rigged, but it holds the housing firmly against the adjuster, and the cable rides smoothly in its housing and releases the brake pedal without incident.
The ties were all trimmed when we had confirmation that it worked. It is a little over done, but we didn't want to go back there anytime soon. It took about 5 hours to pull everything apart, fix it , and then put it all back together. We were gong to take it out on the road, but it was getting late.
Bill
Hi Bill- was fortunate to run across your revitalized thread. I bought the "perfect replica" (there was a thread on this site awhile back reviewing a dealer offering of this car) at Russo realizing that it had been Kustomized (with a capital "K") . Have been researching originals. Your pics are invaluable in setting me in right direction.
Many thanks,
Paul
Many thanks,
Paul
Jim Craik
Lifetime Supporter
There are great photos of an early car. I noticed that this ones rear sway bar is mounted on top, but the whole mounting bracket looks different. Love the wire wheels!
Code:
[U][/U]Here are some more. For those of you talking about the vents, heere's something to think about.
Here's the shock/coilover adjuster.
Here is the safety harness attachment.
Notice the battery disconnect.
Couldn't resist just sitting in it with the engine running.
Fuel selector switch.
Here is the screen cover for the side vents.
Half goes to the rear brakes and half to the engine bay.
Fantastic survivor. Great stuff, thank you.
