2223 Lives!

[Jack Houpe]

Not that I've ever done anything so stupid as pulling my cable back so far that I would lose the end. But if someone were to do that how do you re-thread it? The end was kind of mangled so I can't just push it back through.

Ouch Richard, that could be a big job. You might have to pull it out then take a new cable cut it so the wires are not fringed then push through from the engine side. Make sure that you use plenty of cable so that you can pull it out far enough to work on the clevis end. I used a torch and silver solder to put the old one on the new cable. Not an easy job if your old like me, upside down laying on your back working in a very tight area. You might have to pull the AC unit to get to the clevis.

 

[mike]

I had a problem, it was the clevis on the cable hook up point at the pedal area, the nut was so tight that the clevis would not swing and it cut through many of the cable treads. I replaced the cable with a stainless steel bicycle brake cable. We have the same fuel injection, you might check that the return spring on the pedal is not the wrong size, (to big)that would cause stiff pedal.

If you ever want a set of clear lexan air cleaners let me know I have a used set. I like your P number, its eazy to remember.

right, but even when i work the throttle by hand on the manifold, its still stiff as hell....would this not take the spring at the pedal out of the equation?

im not sure what the clevis is....are there any pics of this and what i might loosen?

thanks!

 

[Jack Houpe]

right, but even when i work the throttle by hand on the manifold, its still stiff as hell....would this not take the spring at the pedal out of the equation?

im not sure what the clevis is....are there any pics of this and what i might loosen?

thanks!

I forgot how hard it was to get to that area, even for taking pictures. I used a mop handle, follow it to the end and you will see the clevis. If its hard to turn on the throttle bodies then thats where the problem is. The main question is "what is hard?" Could be different for different people.

 

[Richard]

Jack, I'm hoping I didn't pull it back very far. I'm in the process of shortening the cable so if I didn't pull it to far back I’ll find it when I do that. Otherwise I’ll try your trick. I hate getting old, just about the time your brain tells you to stop doing something it falls back to sleep.

Mike, could you post some pictures of your throttle bodies and linkage? I know many people that have had horrible problems with Weber throttle linkage, it seems they are not all created equal.

 

[mike]

Jack, I'm hoping I didn't pull it back very far. I'm in the process of shortening the cable so if I didn't pull it to far back I’ll find it when I do that. Otherwise I’ll try your trick. I hate getting old, just about the time your brain tells you to stop doing something it falls back to sleep.

Mike, could you post some pictures of your throttle bodies and linkage? I know many people that have had horrible problems with Weber throttle linkage, it seems they are not all created equal.

ill try to post some pics later tonight.

 

[mike]

kinda funny story i almost forgot......

so i picked up my car from the builder. we went for a drive and everything was running smoothly. i noted how smooth the car ran at all rpms, we talked abt the car, etc....i drop him back off and as hes getting out of the car he says, "you have a half tank of gas, you should be good to get home and stuff."

i drive home, make a couple of stops. i get home and the wife comes out. she ooohs and ahhhhs over the car and asks for a ride. ok.
we go for a short drive and i notice the car isnt running quite right. its surging just a bit, running a little rough. i think maybe its just the heat or something. we go for abt a 5 mile drive and on our way back, on a fairly busy street abt 3 blocks from my house at a red light, the car just dies. i start it back up and make a left hand turn. half way through the intersection it dies again. i coast through the intersection and stop. my wife is asking me whats wrong. (i have no idea, but im thinking the worst.) i try to start it again and it starts. it goes abt 10 feet and dies again. im thinking holy crap, all the time and money involved and this thing is seriously fubared. i instruct the wife to exit the vehicle, as im now afraid the car will be rear ended. i look for hazard lights. none. i try starting it again. no fire. i then push the car about 20 feet into a gas station. luckily the car is light. everyone is looking at the guy pushing his gt40 into the speedway gas station. ugg.
i push it up to the pump and start filling. the wife is worried abt the car and keeps asking me whats wrong with it. i say i dont know. gas gauge reads just under half a tank, but ill see what happens after i fill it.
it took just over 18 gallons. whew. i told her i believe it ran out of gas and the only problem is a very enthusiastic gas gauge....
sure enough after 18 gallons, it started right up.
i lit the street up pulling away from the gas station..

i was so worried thinking something was fubared when in reality i ran out of gas. ha.

any way to adjust the gauge so its a bit more accurate or no?

 

[Richard]

Holy crap there's something I didn't take apart, well maybe next time. You migh want to pull the sending unit and see if the arm isn't bent correctly.

The sending unit is under the oval cover just inside the right hand door. The last picture is a picture of the underside of the oval panel and shows the wire to the sending unit.

As always let us know what you find.

P.S. Make sure you put out you cigarette fist or you might be the first GT40 owner to vist the moon.

 

[Jim Craik]

Mike,

This may very well not be your problem, but my throttle cable was very tight and tended to hang up just above idle. I sprayed a bunch of WD40 at both ends and the problem is gone. :thumbsup:

 

[mike]

Holy crap there's something I didn't take apart, well maybe next time. You migh want to pull the sending unit and see if the arm isn't bent correctly.

The sending unit is under the oval cover just inside the right hand door. The last picture is a picture of the underside of the oval panel and shows the wire to the sending unit.

As always let us know what you find.

P.S. Make sure you put out you cigarette fist or you might be the first GT40 owner to vist the moon.

richard, i dont have to drop the tank, do i? i just pop that oval cover and look for what exactly? i wouldnt be able to tell if the arm was perfect or messed up.

forget the moon. id fly straight to heaven..
(doubt it. )

 

[mike]

Mike,

This may very well not be your problem, but my throttle cable was very tight and tended to hang up just above idle. I sprayed a bunch of WD40 at both ends and the problem is gone. :thumbsup:

hey!
thats something that i can actually do all by myself....
now, where exactly do i aim the nozzle....???
jk..

i thought of that actually. not sure if there are any rubber pieces in or around that manifold that wd40 might eat away at.....

 

[Jack Houpe]

Mike, when I calibrated my fuel sender unit I filled my tanks with just over 4 five gallon cans, I think I put 22 gallons, then pumped them out with the electric pump till it ran dry. I only could get about 17.5 gallons out of the tanks, this means we all have fuel in the tanks when empty just can't get it out because of the angle of the tanks and the outlets are above the bottom. I have purchased a capacitor type fuel quantity sender unit, they are stable and accurate. Just haven't gotten around to changing it out. Mike Trusty put one in his car and I liked how accurate it was.

 

[mike]

Mike, when I calibrated my fuel sender unit I filled my tanks with just over 4 five gallon cans, I think I put 22 gallons, then pumped them out with the electric pump till it ran dry. I only could get about 17.5 gallons out of the tanks, this means we all have fuel in the tanks when empty just can't get it out because of the angle of the tanks and the outlets are above the bottom. I have purchased a capacitor type fuel quantity sender unit, they are stable and accurate. Just haven't gotten around to changing it out. Mike Trusty put one in his car and I liked how accurate it was.

that sounds nice....it would be cool to have a working gas gauge.
ive been doing the old motorcycle trick....keeping track of the miles. or just filling up when the gauge shows half full.

how does mike trusty's system work? where does it go, and what gauge do you read off? (the gas gauge in the dash, or an auxiliary one?)

 

[DaveM]

Jack,
Where did you get the alternate sender unit? My gauge reads optimistic too. Never let it get too much under half.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Dave, ebay for $24 plus shipping. Mike, Mike Trustys system works great, I installed it. He has two sender units, one in each tank with only one gauge and a swtich for left and right. He only uses the tank on the passenger side for fuel feed to the engine BUT has a transfer pump on the drivers side so he can take longer trips and transfer fuel via small fuel pump to the main tank. The capacitive system is what is used in all aviation and most larger boats. The sender units are cut to length by the installer. The bottom of the sender unit must be just at the bottom of the tank but not touching the tank. Try this link.
MOELLER 7 1/2 IN BOAT FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT gas tanks:eBay Motors (item 370128461944 end time Jul-24-09 10:46:46 PDT)

 

[Garry]

Reading this thread, begs the question...does anyone have fuel cells and if you do do you have the same pick-up problems getting the fuel from the bottom of the bladder?
Garry

 

[Jack Houpe]

Reading this thread, begs the question...does anyone have fuel cells and if you do do you have the same pick-up problems getting the fuel from the bottom of the bladder?
Garry

Garry, Mike Trusty checked into getting them made, try about $8000 for two. Dennis Olthoff has them now for less than half that, I don't remember the price but in was in the $3000 range. Soon as I can afford them, they are going in my car just for safety reasons. Mike Trusty welded the outlet lower on the tank but it still doesn't fix the problem with standing fuel but improves it some.

 

[mike]

heres a few pics of the fuel injection linkage.....
paul at olthoffs said perhaps adjusting the 2 bars coming off the circular thing might help....other than that he didnt have any other suggestion other than perhaps a spring on the linkage itself.
havent heard back from thor motorsports on if or where those springs are.
its hard to photo the linkage as it all hides behind the fuel rails and such, but here goes....

 

[Jack Houpe]

You have the exact set up as I do, I will figure out how to take some measurements of pressure to articulate the foot pedal. Maybe a scale and stick will work. Mine seems to be very easy. I have been in Mike Trustys car with his TWM throttle bodies and they are the same as mine. You may have a kink in your cable someplace.

 

[mike]

You have the exact set up as I do, I will figure out how to take some measurements of pressure to articulate the foot pedal. Maybe a scale and stick will work. Mine seems to be very easy. I have been in Mike Trustys car with his TWM throttle bodies and they are the same as mine. You may have a kink in your cable someplace.

yep, thats it......
if you work the throttle by moving the linkage right there behind the adjustment screw, is it still hard to move or easy?

also, do you have an IAC motor on your setup? mine doesnt have an iac motor so there is no adjustment for cold idle etc...

thanks

 

[Bill Musarra]

Mike,
I have the TWM setup which is identical down to the bolts to yours. We just hooked up all the electronics and fired the engine last week. I couldn't drive it at Road America due to a misplaced crossover fuel line discovered on the last day before we trailered to Wisconsin. Mine was the Grey and Copper 40 there. My pedal is tight or stiff as well. I have a few routing issues to work out and an adjustment for the pedal itself. One thing to consider with your pedal is, is the fulcrum of the clevis located before the top of the arc that it goes through when you depress the throttle. These have to be located just before the top of the arc or the cable will bind on its entry/exit to the sheath. Mine is too far ahead of the arc and I will have to alter the rod ends to get it closer to the top of the arc. My setup uses a push pull setup(see DRB#5). Also, I measured the lenght of the cable as it unwinds from the round device on the intake manifold. It measures nearly 3 inches. If you lenghten the shaft at the pedal, the down side is the pedal will need to go further to reach WOT. Three inches is about as long as you want to use. Gets tough on the ankle. The good news is that the work required is less(basic geometry). The other less easily done thing is to increase the radius of the mount on the intake manifold.
I have noticed that to open the throttle bodies at the intake manifold, requires a tremendous effort. Either the springs on the ends of the adjustment rods(idle set screw area) is too stiff or the mechanism that links the throttle bodies is too tight. I will contact TWM today or tomorrow(on call today and tonight) and get their thoughts as they shouold have delt with this before. They are the company that furnished the FI setups to the Roush motors. How do I know? That is what held them up for two weeks when I ordered mine. If they aren't able to help us, then I will contact Roush to see if they experienced this problem and how they handled it. If your is a Roush setup, give them a call and post the response here.

Bill