Andy, not on open forum ! call me during the week if you want, but the only real info I have is that he regularly came to my shop for any free scrap parts I was getting rid of. Frank
302 main bearings
- Thread starter Skorpion
- Start date
I think you will be better off building this engine up to a decent standard and when you are ready for an up grade sell it as a good used engine. It will be exactly that with a hone , new pistons, oil pump, cam and lifters. The block is already at what most consider to be the max safe overbore so there is no point in thinking about a stroker in this engine. I have some standard bore roller cam 302`s with the later gt40p heads on for rebuild if you are interested at a later date .
Bob
Bob
Did you have the block hot tanked? Just curious, because if you did, there shouldn't be any yellow paint left!
Hi Bob,
this '68 engine is indeed not suitable for being a stroker.
Probably I will keep it as a spare, you will never know :thumbsup:
This engine received so far lots of DIY cleaning (hand wash, high pressure, degrease). The paint is almost gone so ready for some final washing/rising all channels.
Checked the block for possible deck warping since this was one of the last checks. The limit is a gap of max 0.007" between straight ruler and the block over the full length of the block (source: HPBooks how to rebuild SBF engines).
Measured on the left side gap: 0 < x < 0.002"
Measured on the right side gap: 0.002" < x < 0.004"
So deck warping is within limits.
The 347 stroker is for next year. Therefore I am now working with a limited budget (impossible with a gt40) but can't wait to hear it run and drive again. This engine will be build - unfortunately - without the proper professional machine shop steps but instead with the "spirit" of handcraft workmanship, old skool measuring and lots of attention and love :laugh: and yes, I am aware of the risks, but not guts no glory. :2thumbsup:
this '68 engine is indeed not suitable for being a stroker.
Probably I will keep it as a spare, you will never know :thumbsup:
This engine received so far lots of DIY cleaning (hand wash, high pressure, degrease). The paint is almost gone so ready for some final washing/rising all channels.
Checked the block for possible deck warping since this was one of the last checks. The limit is a gap of max 0.007" between straight ruler and the block over the full length of the block (source: HPBooks how to rebuild SBF engines).
Measured on the left side gap: 0 < x < 0.002"
Measured on the right side gap: 0.002" < x < 0.004"
So deck warping is within limits.
The 347 stroker is for next year. Therefore I am now working with a limited budget (impossible with a gt40) but can't wait to hear it run and drive again. This engine will be build - unfortunately - without the proper professional machine shop steps but instead with the "spirit" of handcraft workmanship, old skool measuring and lots of attention and love :laugh: and yes, I am aware of the risks, but not guts no glory. :2thumbsup:
Nothing wrong with 'Old Skool ' at all, most of todays whizz kids with all the electronic doo dah are lost when you hand them a set of old micrometers or vernier calipers. It used to be they couldn't work without a fag in one hand, now its a cellphone, and if they still smoke then they are totally useless!
Howard Jones
Supporter
If I was in the spot you are in I would try and find a used mild cam and a set of lifters and put it back together as carefully as you can. You can build a engine using the pistons/rings you have that will run well enough to do some tours with careful low rev limit use.
Take it easy and save your money for the motor you really want next year. You can still enjoy the car just remember that you have a heart attract victim for a motor. Nice and easy and time will get you through this.
Good luck.
Take it easy and save your money for the motor you really want next year. You can still enjoy the car just remember that you have a heart attract victim for a motor. Nice and easy and time will get you through this.
Good luck.
The cam is a hydraulic flat tapped with duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./228 exh. Attached you can see what it should theoretical bring. I will install the cam 2 degree retarded to squeeze out the last bit of "oumpfhhh".
With the parts I am reusing, it will have get a 8.60 compression, relative low so should not tend to overheat as quickly. So a good start to see if all other systems are working...suspension, transmission, brakes, fuel pumps, cooling,....
The stroker will get a XE270HR-14 roller cam - compression of about 10.
Further I will not able to go without destroying the gearbox :sad:
With the parts I am reusing, it will have get a 8.60 compression, relative low so should not tend to overheat as quickly. So a good start to see if all other systems are working...suspension, transmission, brakes, fuel pumps, cooling,....
The stroker will get a XE270HR-14 roller cam - compression of about 10.
Further I will not able to go without destroying the gearbox :sad:
Attachments
Hi Guys,
Found on 2 cylinders some rather deep scratches which I can feel with my nail.
Also with the dial bore guage, they can be felt with the probe.
Since this block is already 40 overbore, don't want to go for the 60 overbore.
I tried to sand the scratches away with 400 grid and later with 600 grid in a cross pattern movement but they are too deep. 600 grid looks to me too polished for the oil to stick on the grooves.
Could honing with a 240 grid flexhone resolve the scratches ?
Or is this a "game-over" for this block ?
(Block should survive one year normal roadconditions)
Found on 2 cylinders some rather deep scratches which I can feel with my nail.
Also with the dial bore guage, they can be felt with the probe.
Since this block is already 40 overbore, don't want to go for the 60 overbore.
I tried to sand the scratches away with 400 grid and later with 600 grid in a cross pattern movement but they are too deep. 600 grid looks to me too polished for the oil to stick on the grooves.
Could honing with a 240 grid flexhone resolve the scratches ?
Or is this a "game-over" for this block ?
(Block should survive one year normal roadconditions)
Attachments
Since you're planning on building another engine down the road - I would just ball-hone the cylinders, gap the rings at .015" and call it good...
Unless you've changed your plans that is...
Either way, I have pulled some pretty good running engines apart that had those scars or worse.. Granted a perfect engine would have nothing more than a light cross-hatch hone pattern in them..
Unless you've changed your plans that is...
Either way, I have pulled some pretty good running engines apart that had those scars or worse.. Granted a perfect engine would have nothing more than a light cross-hatch hone pattern in them..
You will be surprised how sensitive a finger can be to imperfections in a surface. I doubt very much if the scratches are as deep as they "feel" and considering that quite a few of the bores are undersized by a few thou it may pay to have the block honed properly to size, the scratches may well disappear. I know you dont want to spend on this one but you may end up with a healthy little runner out of this if you dont cut corners at this stage.
bob
