Jay's build log

[Wayne]

Looking good Jay.
After I drilled the holes for my engine cross member I sleeved the 2x2 tubing with welded in thick wall tubing. I wanted to prevent vibration from having the bolts wallow out the holes. I did the same for all of the roll cage mounts also.
FYI, you can flip the fuel rails to put inlet on drivers side.

 

[Mike]

With the wheels you have(assume they are the 18/19 setup from rcr) did the nitto's come with that stage? I was just looking at that and wondered if tires were extra with that stage of the package...

 

[Dave]

Looking good Jay.
After I drilled the holes for my engine cross member I sleeved the 2x2 tubing with welded in thick wall tubing..... I did the same for all of the roll cage mounts also.

Can you describe this further/better? Perhaps I'm having a brain fart but am having difficulty picturing this.

 

[Paul Osborn]

Can you describe this further/better? Perhaps I'm having a brain fart but am having difficulty picturing this.

Picture worth 1K words!

 

[Jack]

Simple guy's. Drill the holes in the tubing, insert a cut to length piece of round tubing as a bush for the bolts, and weld in place to prevent the main tube from crushing when you over-torque the bolts. Will absolutely prevent wallowing of the holes in the aluminum too.

 

[Wayne]

Jack explained it perfectly.
The cross member bolts to the lower 2X2 frame with 3/8" bolts. I drilled a 11/16" hole to accommodate a piece of thick wall tubing cut slightly less then 2 inches. I then welded the edges of the tubing to the 2X2 frame. Even though the cross member is steel and the likely hood of crushing the aluminum tube is slim, I was more concerned with vibration and torque wallowing the holes. I always sleeve holes in tubing. I had to remove my roll cage at one point after having torqued the bolts and discovered I did slightly crush the aluminum 2X6 cross member. So I sleeved everything.

IMHO, I wouldn't bolt 400-500+ lbs of torgue to a piece of 1/8" wall tubing.

 

[Alex]

I had to remove my roll cage at one point after having torqued the bolts and discovered I did slightly crush the aluminum 2X6 cross member. So I sleeved everything.

I did the same thing too (although rather than sleeve I just use a thick aluminum place to back it up against) - I started torquing my roll cage bolts to 35ft-lbs (I figured hey, 3/8'' bolts, 35ft-lbs), and it kept tightening and tightening and tightening and then I looked underneath the dash. :shocked:Ooops, haha; 1st and last time I made that mistake.

 

[Dave]

Simple guy's. Drill the holes in the tubing, insert a cut to length piece of round tubing as a bush for the bolts, and weld in place to prevent the main tube from crushing when you over-torque the bolts. Will absolutely prevent wallowing of the holes in the aluminum too.

Ok, that makes sense and is also what I did on the 2x6 upright tube at the trailing edge of the footwell. I have the additonal rollcage tubing in that area and it was crushing the tube on delivery. That square tube I did is only .125 wall versus the .250 walled stuff everywhere else the cage bolts too. Perhaps I will do the others as well too.

I was picturing a sleeve on the outside of the tubing to keep the bolted cross member from sliding areound and changing position. Like I said, brain fart; I hadn't finished my morning cup'o'joe :drunk:

 

[Cam]

Probably better to not splice the DBW. Toyota learned that wiring is a little touchy!

 

[Adam]

What is picture #3 of in Post 19? Thanks

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Engine mount on steel crossmember

 

[Ricardo Montalvo]

Wow, you're are flying Jay. Looks great.

 

[jay cozz]

just finished the basic ISIS wiring. now comes the task of mating the ISIS system to the GM wiring harness. the ISIS system is labeled extremely well and with the instruction manual is very easy to install. I have a few questions if someone has any tips. there are two wires from the GM harness for fuel pump, do I use these for the lift pump or high pressure pump and how do I wire in the second pump? also what do I do with the GM speed sensor since I am using the KOSO speed sensor? For the speed sensor I JB welded a bolt head onto the back of one of the hub bolts as a pick up, I then drilled out the mounting bracket a bit fit over one of thee existing bolts making sure the sensor and pick up are 2mm apart. Next task is finishing coolant system once I pick up my expansion tank. And then comes the A/C.

 

[Will Campbell]

I think you will find that the Koso speed sensor needs to be a little closer to the stud- the 2mm number is a max, IIRC, and it works better in the 1 mm range.

It looks like you have plenty of adjustment to do that.

Also, I think you should consider removing the nut you placed on the back on one of the studs, as you will find that the speed sensor will work best with more than 1 click per wheel revolution, and because the JB-welded nut is likely to come off anyway at speed. Just reading off the back of the studs should work fine.

The GM ECM doesn't actually need a speed sensor for the engine to work, so you can simply leave it off. Alternatively, you could source a GM VSS and try to mount it on the car somewhere, and feed the output to the ECM. That would make it easier to read the PID for speed if you were trying to use OBD-II to get data from the ECM (including speed).

Good progress!

 

[jay cozz]

 

[Ken Roberts]

Is there any reason why you didn't purchase the handbrake option kit from Fran?
I'm in the same boat shortly.

 

[jay cozz]

I am trying to keep the cost down where I can. Sometimes this works and sometimes it ends up costing more. I will have to see how everything tallies up after I get handle and run the cables.

 

[Alex]

I managed to spend a little time in the garage dispite thee onslougt of "quality time with the family" over the holidays. the majority of time was spent installing the latches and aligning, then realigning, then realigning the doors. for future SL-C buyers I would recommend paying the extra for Fran to do the body fitment and door alignment. I now know the true meaning of frustration. I have both doors on latching and moving up an down. I am just waiting for my gas struts so I can take the doors off my long to do list. I also got the parking brake calipers that I purchased from ipsco mounted. I looked in to a bunch of other options but the majority opinion is that is must be a seperate mechanical brake to pass safety. ipsco has made these calipers in the past for the SL-C and the bracket is a direct fit. All I had to do is drill and tap 2 holes. Also I have the front clip and rear tail aligned and locater pins fitted does anyone have good pics or advise on where and how to install the aerocatch latches. thanks.

The fun with the doors get to happen all over again when you install the struts - I learned that, hehehe - they will cause the door to sit slightly differently, and may (mine did) change the trajectory of how the door is opening upwards (front clip clearance), requiring adjusting of the latches.

 

[Justin]

Your SLC is looking great. Do you have any updates?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Get your spot on the SLC location map Jay!