From memory I think its an ER32, but its been a while, the mill is a Hafco HM50 from hare and forbes.
Ozi 206 sp
- Thread starter Jim C
- Start date
From memory I think its an ER32, but its been a while, the mill is a Hafco HM50 from hare and forbes.
You buy alloy splits from White horse ind in Melb.
They will bolt in 20x m6 bolts or studs.
No welding ,the flange is in the spun halves.
Jim
If you are buying of Hare and Forbes there are 2 types.
The collets in the cheap chuck have 3 slots but are restricted to exact sizes, they work fine as I have used one for years.
The other has 6 slots in the collets and adjust over a wider range, these are better as it will generally fit metric and imp tooling, you can also buy extra collets if required.
Jim
Does not feel like a lot considering the time that has lapsed but a lot of things came up over the last few months and it took me away from this project.
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
Cant get attachments up will come back once I figure it out.
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
Cant get attachments up will come back once I figure it out.
Does not feel like a lot considering the time that has lapsed but a lot of things came up over the last few months and it took me away from this project.
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
Over the last few weeks I got some done on the suspension.
The first thing made was the body profiles that sit directly above the axle lines.
This is so I make sure I am building under the body work..
Attachments
Thanks Leon, checked your gearbox out today looks good.
I placed the wheel and Tyre in the location and just start making links.
I have 2 lower laterals with a diagonal.
I upper lat and a trailing link.
The original cars had very much a gt40 set up with long trailing links. I want to get away from that for packaging reasons.
I placed the wheel and Tyre in the location and just start making links.
I have 2 lower laterals with a diagonal.
I upper lat and a trailing link.
The original cars had very much a gt40 set up with long trailing links. I want to get away from that for packaging reasons.
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The front I wanted removable brackets so that I have the flexibility to change roll centers further than the bracket allows by replacing it with another.
The lower arm inner joints are a fixed position, they go into a very simple jig which is a piece of ply with 3 holes drilled in the correct location to get the location of the 3 joints the same left and right.
The upper and lower sphericals are both 5/8 the housings I machined, all the left and right 1/2 rose joint adjusters I also machined.
The machined parts and tube work is all 4130 crome moly.
The lower arm inner joints are a fixed position, they go into a very simple jig which is a piece of ply with 3 holes drilled in the correct location to get the location of the 3 joints the same left and right.
The upper and lower sphericals are both 5/8 the housings I machined, all the left and right 1/2 rose joint adjusters I also machined.
The machined parts and tube work is all 4130 crome moly.
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the upper arm is split with a clevis.
All the camber caster is adjusted off the top arm.
Again brackets are removable and bolts pass in the vertical direction.
The reason for this was mainly to keep the joints in compression and contraction when loaded.
The front upper joint is in a fitting that has an outer L/H thread and a 1/2" inner R/H thread.
By rotating the threaded sleeve (the part the rose joint is screwed into) I can adjust without removing the bolt out of the upper inner joint.
All the camber caster is adjusted off the top arm.
Again brackets are removable and bolts pass in the vertical direction.
The reason for this was mainly to keep the joints in compression and contraction when loaded.
The front upper joint is in a fitting that has an outer L/H thread and a 1/2" inner R/H thread.
By rotating the threaded sleeve (the part the rose joint is screwed into) I can adjust without removing the bolt out of the upper inner joint.
Attachments
The steering arm is crome moly sheet.
I printed out the panels and glued to the sheet then cut to get them all the same.
I had worked out through susprog 3 where the arm needed to be.
I then freehanded the first one at the correct location.
I then made a jig that it fitted into but mirrored the hole location when in the mill.
The parts are all assembled and welded in the jig and this gives me a mirrored part.
I printed out the panels and glued to the sheet then cut to get them all the same.
I had worked out through susprog 3 where the arm needed to be.
I then freehanded the first one at the correct location.
I then made a jig that it fitted into but mirrored the hole location when in the mill.
The parts are all assembled and welded in the jig and this gives me a mirrored part.
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steering rack I decided on Strange engineering 12:1 ,they use them in sand buggy's and drag rails.
I will be extending the end by using a linier pillow block 106mm long mounted to the front .the rack will have some form of link to a hardened shaft 20mm dia.
The brackets the rack is mounted to will get flanges attached to up the rigidity,I have not done this before so I will have to work out the bugs.
I dont want to make a rack specific to this car.
Thats all for the moment.
Jim
I will be extending the end by using a linier pillow block 106mm long mounted to the front .the rack will have some form of link to a hardened shaft 20mm dia.
The brackets the rack is mounted to will get flanges attached to up the rigidity,I have not done this before so I will have to work out the bugs.
I dont want to make a rack specific to this car.
Thats all for the moment.
Jim
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Its an ABS sensor, its part of the wheel bearing, I dont need it but it can be used for launch control and a speedo if required.
Jim
